Table saw rips not even

[Mario Turcot]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member] What kind of pressure in lbs the Jessem's hold down apply?

I'm considering them on my Hybrid table saw.

 

[Dick Mahany]

For thin rips and face frames, using a simple feather board and push stick in addition to the riving knife or blade guard has been very beneficial in maintaining parallelism over the entire length of the cut.  It does take a few seconds to reset the board if the stock width varies, but the results are worth it every time.

[attachimg=1]

Also, an auxiliary tall fence can help with one or more featherboards although they can restrict push stick usage for very narrow rips.
[attachimg=2]

The aux fence is symmetrical so it can be rotated 180 degrees.  Clamp detail is crude but works well.
[attachimg=3]

 

[ChuckM]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member] What kind of pressure in lbs the Jessem's hold down apply?

I'm considering them on my Hybrid table saw.

Mario,

The rollers are spring loaded and by feel, 5 pounds? But it is important to note that you position the workpiece under the guides, not the rollers, to set them up, and then put the workpiece under the front roller. The rollers are slightly lower than the guides.

It is not just the tension but really also the one-way 5* angle rollers that keep the stock to go tight against the fence as well as preventing kickback. Even if wood opens up after passing the blade and touching the spinning teeth at the back before reaching the riving knife, kickback won't happen as the rollers allow only forward movement.

With this guides, you can handle a large sheet all by yourself as everything you feed stays in contact with the saw fence as long as you push forward.

By the way, many users only handle wide stock when the clear stock guides is installed. They wrongly think that the rollers will get in the way when narrow stock is ripped. I rip as well as resaw (long pieces) regardless of the clear stock guides. See an example in the image.

 

[Steven Owen]

For thin rips and face frames, using a simple feather board and push stick in addition to the riving knife or blade guard has been very beneficial in maintaining parallelism over the entire length of the cut.  It does take a few seconds to reset the board if the stock width varies, but the results are worth it every time.

[attachimg=1]

Also, an auxiliary tall fence can help with one or more featherboards although they can restrict push stick usage for very narrow rips.
[attachimg=2]

That’s a good idea Dick.  I always use feather boards on a Dewalt table fence, I never considered building my own auxiliary fence for the Dewalt job site saw.  I always felt the fence on the Dewalt was too short for some task. 

That’s cool and a good design.  The addition of the T-track on the fence would allow you to add Jessems clear cut guides to boot. 

 

[ColossusX]

[member=66597]Mario Turcot[/member] , I'm using what came with the saw.  So I'm not positive.

 

[ChuckM]

snip.

I'm considering them on my Hybrid table saw.

Mario, or anyone who plans to get the Jessem guides,

The guides can be used as a stop bock when cross cutting as shown in the attached image. No need to clamp a block to your fence.

 

[Mario Turcot]

The guides can be used as a stop bock when cross cutting as shown in the attached image. No need to clamp a block to your fence.

Very neat, thank you

I'm sold after watching that video

 

[ChuckM]

Some people use other jigs with the fence and don't want the guides screwed to the fence. If you re one of them, you could install the guides to a plywood base and mount the following magnets to the base:http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=56000&cat=1,43838,47843

When you need to use the guides, simply attach the guides/base to the fence.

With the use of these guides, it is close to being impossible to have a kickback. In addition, cutting a large sheet is no longer nerve wrecking. If I need to cut  25"x48" out of  4x8, I set the fence to cut 25-1/4" in the first pass, then a second pass to trim a dead straight, clean edge.

 

[Mario Turcot]

I did my home work and found that Dave Stanton made a video just about that. Thanksa for the LeeValley link  [cool]
video

 

[Mario Turcot]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member]

Look into what you pushed me!

12 minutes ago
[attachimg=1]
and they had one in stock  [tongue]
[attachimg=2]
The thing is, I use the table saw a lot. Beside regular usage, I cut out and square all the left over from the CNC and what not. Those helpers will simplify the task enormously  [eek]

 

[ChuckM]

[big grin]

I am a victim :'(, too, and your photo reminds me that I still have three online/special orders waiting for me to pick up! [eek]

It is a blessing in disguise that I don't live too close to the store (half an hour drive in city traffic) ....

 

[Brian Livingstone]

Hi Mario,

What is on top of the box ?  Featherboard ?

I have the guides on my LaGuna Fusion.  Really like them.

Brian

 

[Mario Turcot]

[member=1119]Brian Livingstone[/member]

Hi Mario,

What is on top of the box ?  Featherboard ?

I have the guides on my LaGuna Fusion.  Really like them.

Brian

They are Mag Switch magnets. If you look at the video I posted above you will see their use.

Took 10 minutes to install
[attachimg=1]

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.

Took 10 minutes to install

That's unbelievably efficient!

[thumbs up]

JessEm should appoint you as one of their honourary Installation/Assembly consultants.

By the way, I keep a stack of gift cards or access cards (but not credit cards because they are embossed) nearby. Sometimes, I set the front guide and lock the fence, forgetting about the rear guide. Or, with the blade guard in place, setting the rear guide might require moving the fence far to slip in the stock. Instead, I use a stack of cards the same or close to the same thickness of the stock to set the guide I miss.

 

[rvieceli]

[member=66597]Mario Turcot[/member] which model Mag-switches are those?

Thanks

Ron

 

[Mario Turcot]

I already had a strip of 70mm ply, just have to make the holes for the magnets and screw everything together.

 

[Mario Turcot]

[member=66597]Mario Turcot[/member] which model Mag-switches are those?

Thanks

Ron

The 20mm Mag-Jig 95lbs I found the 30mm to be a bit too bulky.

 

[ChuckM]

The magnets are quite pricey, but they are a great helper.

The featherboards are best mounted with one 20mm and one 30mm magnets. Unlike those used with the mitre slots, these can be positioned anywhere on the table.

If you wax your saw table top, this application is not suitable for you.

 

[rst]

I have an advantage in that most of my work is commercial, I use Mag Switch 400 and 600 series magnets as feather boards, usually just the magnet against the work.  These Do Not move.