Tablesaw for shop ?

I also traded my Delta UniSaw for a SS PCS and I absolutely love it.  I've had it for about 6 months now and I'm the 2nd owner as the 1st owner had to give up ww for medical reasons.  I paid $2,250 for it.  It's the best saw that I've ever had the pleasure to work with even without the safety features.
I had a trigger event when I over adjusted the position of my Incra fence and the blade came into contact with it.  Just like the advertise, there was a loud noise and the blade dropped down below the table faster than the human eye can follow.  Yes, it was a $69 oops, but it also was a good lesson in making sure that everything is properly set up before making a cut.
I'd buy another one in a heartbeat as its' so much better than my UniSaw.
 
I will also add my complete satisfaction with sawstop.

I can't stress how valuable good customer and technical service is when all goes wrong.

I cant get into the details just yet but i am shoulder deep in a battle with a manufacturer to make good on a $13K machine that is not right even after paying the manufacturer to come adjust and set it up after it was delivered and not cutting. Properly. I have had possession of the machine for four months and it still does not cut right.

A slider is high on my list also. However when i consider the contrasts in experiences when a problem arise with companies like SawStop and Festool vrs. others it leaves me leery to spend the kinda money one has to on fancy Euro machines.

Go with the sawstop or pay for the setup and delivery on the purchase of a euro slider. Also know what to look for with regard to tolerances and calibration if you go slider.

Clearly for 2K your not going slider. My point is mostly that SawStop is a great company with regard to quality and customer service. The later one hopes they never need but when and if you do you do need customer service one had better hope the manufacturer stands behind their product and wants happy customers.
 
For me, without question a SawStop PCS 3HP. Thats what I went with.
 
The problem with the Saw Stop is the false firings.  I only know two people that have  Saw Stops and they both had problems with false firings. One minute you're working and the next minute you're out of business. Now you need to buy a new blade and a new brake.  Not worth the hassle to me.... Sure people will say it's worth your fingers, and I agree, but ( I don't want to curse myself)  but I've been using my table saw for 20 years without so much as a kickback.  But that's just my humble opinion...
 
I have had my swastop for about 4 years and, knock on wood, ( picture fist beating on the side of my head) I have never had a misfire.

On the other hand, with a previous table saw I found myself ripping a piece of reactve QSWO that pinched the back of the blade and kicked it back right into my chest.  [eek]  with the riving knife on the sawstop I've never had a repeat event
 
Steve-Rice said:
The problem with the Saw Stop is the false firings.  I only know two people that have  Saw Stops and they both had problems with false firings. One minute you're working and the next minute you're out of business. Now you need to buy a new blade and a new brake.  Not worth the hassle to me.... Sure people will say it's worth your fingers, and I agree, but ( I don't want to curse myself)  but I've been using my table saw for 20 years without so much as a kickback.  But that's just my humble opinion...

Have they sent the fired cartridge and blade back to Sawstop? I have never heard of a true "misfiring". I have heard one guy use the term misfire to describe what happened when he hit a nail in a board he was cutting . . . I tripped mine the other day because I was careless and ran the blade into and aluminum extension fence on my miter gauge. I probably won't do that again and will use a wood fence on the miter gauge, but it's not a misfire; just my carelessness. If it truly "misfires" I can't imagine Sawstop ignoring that. The safety feature, their quality product, and their technical support is how they made their name in the table saw business.
 
I've had my SS for several years now and have never had a misfire.  The only time the brake was activated was when my incra miter gauge fence hit the blade.  The nick in the fence is so small I can't find the spot it hit any more.
 
I have had a Jet Deluxe Xacta Saw 3hp with a 50" rip in the shop now for three years. I use it pretty much every day monday through friday. I do mostly custom sheet case work. Lots of built ins and kitchen and bath remodels. I use the saw mainly for sizing sheet goods and ripping hardwood for face frames and door parts.

I love the saw. It works, it doesn't have lots of frills, it is what it is. No fancy slides, no extra safety measures, easy to maintain without any proprietary parts and if something ever did break it is easy to get parts for. the fence is good and heavy. I took the stock sides of the fence and made my own sacrificial faces but other then that it is just as it came out of the box. I have run hundreds if not thousands of sheets through it and a whole forest worth of maple and poplar.

I think I got it during one of jet's specials and I spent right around 2k when it was all said and done. Probably the best deal I ever got for my shop. I would highly recommend this saw. Very good bang for your buck.

Adam

EDIT: Just noticed this was an old post that was resurrected, oh well I will let the post stay as the opinion still stands. Could be helpful for anyone in the market for a new saw.
 
tjbier said:
I don't care to much for buying used equipment, that's old, you don't ever know the full story on it.
...

What can go wrong with cast iron if the table is flat?

Much of what makes a table saw good is a good fence, a good blade, and a good insert.
Most of the time the motors and bearings are replaceable.
 
Thanks for the response's,  didn't talk to the boss today so not positive what more he found out.
We do both like the idea of 220v power which most likely brings us to Laguna Platinum and the Saw Stop, with a few 18-20 yr olds working for us I think one "firing" on the saw would easily be cheaper than a ER visit.

Meant more a a blanket statement of buying used tools, saws, miter saws, ect.
Holmz said:
tjbier said:
I don't care to much for buying used equipment, that's old, you don't ever know the full story on it.
...

What can go wrong with cast iron if the table is flat?

Much of what makes a table saw good is a good fence, a good blade, and a good insert.
Most of the time the motors and bearings are replaceable.
 
I think my Sawstop Industrial saw is exceptional in design and quality. If I had a business where employees operated a table saw, I'd buy Sawstop as a liability limitation move and take the high quality as a bonus.
 
I doubt I would ever buy myself a saw stop.

Birdhunter said:
I think my Sawstop Industrial saw is exceptional in design and quality. If I had a business where employees operated a table saw, I'd buy Sawstop as a liability limitation move and take the high quality as a bonus.

Yeah [member=15289]Birdhunter[/member] - you have a good point.
I doubt if I was running a business I would not likely be looking much beyond a saw stop.
 
What can go wrong with cast iron if the table is flat?

Much of what makes a table saw good is a good fence, a good blade, and a good insert.
Most of the time the motors and bearings are replaceable.

I bought a used jointer a few years ago and checked it carefully to ensure the infeed and outfeed were flat.  Hadn't used it for a couple years but used it a couple months ago and had a terrible time to get the edge of a piece of oak jointed.  Finally discovered that infeed table had warped quite badly since the previous use.  It's now junk.
 
bruegf said:
Finally discovered that infeed table had warped quite badly since the previous use.  It's now junk.

I'm curious what brand of jointer this happened to.

That's really quite unusual because iron castings such as jointer beds or lathe beds are usually aged for 6-12 months to eliminate the residual stresses in the casting. It's best to leave them outdoors so thay can "grow & shrink" on their own with the temperature changes.

It's the same reason that guys look for good used car engines (100,000+ miles) to build up for drag/motor sports racing. The used engines have had 100,000 miles of thermal cycling to get them to a steady-state condition, so when you rebore the cylinders and linebore the crank bearing webs, everything stays in the proper place.
 
Cheese said:
bruegf said:
Finally discovered that infeed table had warped quite badly since the previous use.  It's now junk.

I'm curious what brand of jointer this happened to.

That's really quite unusual because iron castings such as jointer beds or lathe beds are usually aged for 6-12 months to eliminate the residual stresses in the casting. It's best to leave them outdoors so thay can "grow & shrink" on their own with the temperature changes.

It's the same reason that guys look for good used car engines (100,000+ miles) to build up for drag/motor sports racing.

I am with Cheese on this.

Milling machines usualy have the ways scraped to make them orthogonal, but rarely move after the residual stresses are out.

I cannot imagine the infeed and outfeed warping outright, but I could imagine something ahppening where they attach. It does seem odd.
 
bruegf said:
What can go wrong with cast iron if the table is flat?

Much of what makes a table saw good is a good fence, a good blade, and a good insert.
Most of the time the motors and bearings are replaceable.

I bought a used jointer a few years ago and checked it carefully to ensure the infeed and outfeed were flat.  Hadn't used it for a couple years but used it a couple months ago and had a terrible time to get the edge of a piece of oak jointed.  Finally discovered that infeed table had warped quite badly since the previous use.  It's now junk.

Cast Iron is malleable. Check the old vintage woodworking machinery site for tips- there's a good chance you can 'persuade' the infeed table to assume it's proper shape.
 
I have the Powermatic 66 with the Excalibur Sliding table.  I like the reviews of the new Powermatic 1000 and a homemade cross cut sled is simple to make that will take care of most mid-sized cross-cut work.

If you find a used Powermatic 66 there are a few reviews of complete re-builds here's one;
http://ggober.com/shop/p66overhaul.htm

Jack
 
I don't think any of those saws would be considered "Shop" saws. Why 52" table? I think hen you get into that large of a saw it looses it's functionality at that size because the piece is so large how do you stabilize it during a cut? That is why people have sliders.

I use a track saw of a custom MFT and laugh as you might a simple 33"? Dealt contractor saw. It is tuned and set up which took a day. That said it works and is dead reliable. Comes with 2 exhaust ports one in base and one in blade guard. When you see the blade guard and the rack n pinion fence you have to get mad at the junk 50 year old designs the saw Co's are too cheap to improve on.

I think a mix of track saw and table saw is the best combination out there. With that in mind the money saved buys the better fence, blades and accy's needed with any saw in that range.

ANYBODY who claims in 20 years of woodworking they haven't had table saw kickback or ah sh@t moment is lying plain and simple. You can shut off the Saw Stop trigger when needed so it is just a look at how macho and superior I am to everyone mentality. Why in the world would you complain about a saw that is proven to be as good if not better quality as any other and has the added benefit of safety that doesn't effect your work flow. Oh wait you have to turn a switch.

I always say when a conversation begins with someone saying "I have been ding this for 25 years", I always think that great but it doesn't mean you have been doing it correctly.

I believe you can learn from just about any experience or person in life. Someone who has never touched a piece of wood can simply spark an idea with their insight into a problem.

Good luck and spend some time figuring out your needs vs what saw as they never will meet the needs out of the box.
 
Cheese said:
bruegf said:
Finally discovered that infeed table had warped quite badly since the previous use.  It's now junk.

I'm curious what brand of jointer this happened to.

That's really quite unusual because iron castings such as jointer beds or lathe beds are usually aged for 6-12 months to eliminate the residual stresses in the casting. It's best to leave them outdoors so thay can "grow & shrink" on their own with the temperature changes.

It's the same reason that guys look for good used car engines (100,000+ miles) to build up for drag/motor sports racing. The used engines have had 100,000 miles of thermal cycling to get them to a steady-state condition, so when you rebore the cylinders and linebore the crank bearing webs, everything stays in the proper place.

It's a 6" Craftsman Industrial.  My Dad visited an American woodworking machine manufacturer in the Midwest (don't remember which one) years ago and they told him they bury the castings for a couple years to remove the stress before they machine them.
 
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