Taming the cord

[mcooley]

The cord on my CT 26 seems to behave better maybe because of the cable caddy on the back has trained it?

As for my Midi which is more "portable" the same thick cable just doesn't seem to stay untangled.

Any suggestions for what to do with that power cable on the Midi? Getting it back in the top caddy where the vacuum hose also goes, plus, a systainer on top is not practical when on the go. Too much time fiddling etc.

Thanks

 

[Woodwork Wizard]

[member=32478]mcooley[/member]

Use the cable wrap from a CT-26/36. Easily attaches to a CT-Midi with a couple of bolts and 2 holes drilled in the pouch at the rear of the Midi. The mains cable has never been a problem since.

I have a CT-Midi for portable use and a CT-36 that never leaves the workshop and has never been unplugged in the 3 years I've owned it so the (now redundant) cable wrap was removed and bolted to the Midi. Works a treat.

 

[Joebuck]

Sorry to revive such an old thread, but I’m looking for some advice here. My three year old Midi has an exceptionally unruly power cord. While I love it’s length, it’s often a moot point since it has become so stiff and tangled after years of service, that I find myself spending an inordinate amount of time fussing with it. I’ll admit, I’m not the most disciplined when it comes to coiling the cord “over/under” and this is certainly the root cause to my problem. So my question is this: If I were to cut the power cord near the back of the unit and attach a high quality twist lock style male lead that will securely attach to my everyday 12AWG cables, will I be creating any unforeseen problems? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

 

[ElectricFeet]

Funny you should mention this now. I have a CTL SYS (and do hobby work on a balcony) and just yesterday decided that I’ve also had enough messing around with the cable.

The CTL SYS attaches with a PC-style cable, so I’ve decided to either cut a spare cable short and add a plug, or buy a short ready-made cable (whichever is cheaper) and then attach that to a retractable extension reel. That way, I will no longer need to do any under-overing/twisting and messing around storing the cable, but will simply unplug and reel the cord in.

While the extension is in use, the hose will be out, so there will be space for the extension reel to physically sit inside the caddy part of the CTL SYS, meaning that there is no chance of the plug pulling out of the extension while in use.

The only problem I can see in your scenario is this one of securing the joint such that it cannot pull out in use.

 

[AlexThePalex]

If I were to cut the power cord near the back of the unit and attach a high quality twist lock style male lead that will securely attach to my everyday 12AWG cables, will I be creating any unforeseen problems? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

Changing out the power cord will not create any problems. As long as you make sure the new cord has the right gauge for the drawn current of vac + tool.

 

[semenza]

Funny you should mention this now. I have a CTL SYS (and do hobby work on a balcony) and just yesterday decided that I’ve also had enough messing around with the cable.

The CTL SYS attaches with a PC-style cable, so I’ve decided to either cut a spare cable short and add a plug, or buy a short ready-made cable (whichever is cheaper) and then attach that to a retractable extension reel. That way, I will no longer need to do any under-overing/twisting and messing around storing the cable, but will simply unplug and reel the cord in.

While the extension is in use, the hose will be out, so there will be space for the extension reel to physically sit inside the caddy part of the CTL SYS, meaning that there is no chance of the plug pulling out of the extension while in use.

The only problem I can see in your scenario is this one of securing the joint such that it cannot pull out in use.

Yup, I swapped out the cord for one about two feet long.

Seth

 

[Bob D.]

"The only problem I can see in your scenario is this one of securing the joint such that it cannot pull out in use."

Would it be possible to use a twist-lock connector here? Or you can get a locking 20A cord cap for household plugs at HD and from many other sources.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/20-Amp-Stay-Plugged-Cord-Replacement-End-630-20AREPLEND/301306557

 

[semenza]

The entire cord can be replaced.

Use a quality proper gauge, flexible , durable, extension cord such as Yellow Jacket. 

Shorter and more flexible makes all the difference in putting it into the hose garage. It will also stay flat on the floor better and be less of a tripping hazard.

Seth

 

[Bob D.]

Those light-duty thermoplastic jackets (STxx-A or SJTxx-A) tend to get stiff in colder temperatures. Same goes for the medium duty
cords (SExx-A or SJExx-A They both seem to take a 'set' when coiled up and when you want to deploy them they don't want to lay flat.

If it's warm and sunny out. My solution has been to lay them out in the Sun for a couple minutes and then you can coil them up neatly or get them to lay flat and remove the trip hazard.

Thermoset (SOOx-A or SJOOx-A) have rubber jackets which remain more flexible at lower temperatures. I use this cord of the correct gauge to make replacement power cords for tools and such. I just bought 20 feet of 8/3 SOOW cord to make an extension cord for my plasma cutter.

 

[jeh]

The entire cord can be replaced.

Use a quality proper gauge, flexible , durable, extension cord such as Yellow Jacket. 

Shorter and more flexible makes all the difference in putting it into the hose garage. It will also stay flat on the floor better and be less of a tripping hazard.

Seth

+1 on this. I have yet to have a Festool cord that is comparable to well made extension cords. Mafell uses some very nice cords for their tools that don't have a memory and are easy to wind up. This is an area where Festool could make an improvement. Maybe sell an enhanced, flexible plugit?

 

[Joebuck]

The entire cord can be replaced.

Use a quality proper gauge, flexible , durable, extension cord such as Yellow Jacket. 

Shorter and more flexible makes all the difference in putting it into the hose garage. It will also stay flat on the floor better and be less of a tripping hazard.

Seth

That was my plan. Cut the cord at about 10” from the back of the vac, splice on a 20amp twist lock and use a yellow jacket. Maybe I should just open up the unit and install the yellow jacket directly to the terminals. What do you think?

 

[Laminator]

I put a 25' 12/3 yellow jacket with the 3 outlet end on mine.  I pushed it down into the spare bag holder with the outlets facing up.  Secured it with 3m mounting tape and then shortened the festool cord so that its just long enough to plug into the closest  outlet.  Now I have a very flexible cord and two available outlets right on the CT mini.

 

[Michael Kellough]

The entire cord can be replaced.

Use a quality proper gauge, flexible , durable, extension cord such as Yellow Jacket. 

Shorter and more flexible makes all the difference in putting it into the hose garage. It will also stay flat on the floor better and be less of a tripping hazard.

Seth

That was my plan. Cut the cord at about 10” from the back of the vac, splice on a 20amp twist lock and use a yellow jacket. Maybe I should just open up the unit and install the yellow jacket directly to the terminals. What do you think?

Maybe after warranty expires. I wonder if FT would freak (as far as warranty is concerned) if you did the external pigtail thing?

 

[semenza]

Probably out of warranty at three years old.  I feel certain that some internet searching or checking forums will find what is needed.

Seth

 

[DeformedTree]

The part that is strange is the 110V CT26 I have has a very poor/stiff cord.  Yet my 230V CT has the same nice super flexible cord as the other festool tools I have.  It is like Festool decided just for that one product to use a "lesser" cord.  Really don't get it as it is a rather annoying cord compared to all their other tools which have nice cords.

Maybe they need to make the vacs have Plug-It.

 

[AlexThePalex]

Maybe I should just open up the unit and install the yellow jacket directly to the terminals. What do you think?

Best plan, for the best connection. And no worries about warranty, if you need it just swap the original cord back and no one will know.

 

[Gregor]

The part that is strange is the 110V CT26 I have has a very poor/stiff cord.  Yet my 230V CT has the same nice super flexible cord as the other festool tools I have.  It is like Festool decided just for that one product to use a "lesser" cord.  Really don't get it as it is a rather annoying cord compared to all their other tools which have nice cords.

Please keep in mind that the 110V version draws twice the amperage, thus needing more metal in the cable (to not turn that into a heater -  or light source).

Maybe they need to make the vacs have Plug-It.

Not a good plan, IMHO.

 

[Mark Katz]

The part that is strange is the 110V CT26 I have has a very poor/stiff cord.  Yet my 230V CT has the same nice super flexible cord as the other festool tools I have.  It is like Festool decided just for that one product to use a "lesser" cord.  Really don't get it as it is a rather annoying cord compared to all their other tools which have nice cords.

Maybe they need to make the vacs have Plug-It.

I think what you are seeing here is that, with two identical tools, the 230v version draws half the current of the 110v version. The wire size needed depends on the current draw of the tool,, not the voltage. Therefore the 230v tool can use a smaller wire size and that leads to more flexibility. Festool can't use the smaller, more flexible cable on the 110v CT because of the current draw of the tool plus the vac, but it can get by with a smaller cable on the tool alone.

 

[AlexThePalex]

Guys, you can make cord carry a bigger current and still be flexible. Every wire inside the cord consists out of a number of small copper wires twisted together, not out of a single copper core.

 

[Mark Katz]

Yes, of course, all tool cords, appliance cords, and extension cords are made from stranded wire. But #12 stranded wire is bigger and less flexible than #14 stranded wire which is bigger and less flexible than #16 stranded wire.

Add to that the wire insulation and the outer jacket that generally get thicker and less flexible as the conductors get bigger. So you will generally find cords on 110v tools are thicker than those on 220v tools unless they are low power to begin with.