Taming the cord

[member=608]Mark Katz[/member]  your logic is sound, but the one piece that I would add to this is that there is a wide range of manufacturers of power cables out there. And there are some really nice, very flexible 12awg and even 10 AWG cables available. But they just cost more.
 
The cable material also determines flexibility a lot. Like the cord that is attached to my Festool battery charger is a total pain while the Plug-It cords are just fine while thicker.

I think the cable problem is bigger in the US... half the voltage, double the current; needs four times bigger cross section to have the same losses in the cable.

Festool CT's in 230V area have a 3x1,5mm2 cable if I remember right.
 
1.5mm^2 on the 230V,  2.0^2 on the 110 unit.  Though I think the cords mean mm not mm2

It's not the gauge, it's the covering.  Plug it cords, the 230V CT, my Mafell tools, all have soft insulation, no markings but it looks/feels to be some sort of natural rubber.  The 110V CT cords is some sort of Vinyl.  It's not a gauge issue, I have plenty of heavier gauge cords, they can be nice and soft too.  The cord is normal 105C, 300V like the other Festool cords.  I can't get much from the EU sold tools, they must not have the same regs for marking specs on the cords as the USA.

My TS55 is my most powerful Festool Tool, so I don't know what the cord on say a OF2200 looks like.
 
DeformedTree said:
My TS55 is my most powerful Festool Tool, so I don't know what the cord on say a OF2200 looks like.

Well interestingly enough, the largest Plug-It cord Festool offers for any of their tools is a 16 gauge cord. A 16 gauge cord is nominally rated for 10 amps of current. The US version of the OF 2200 at max can draw 18 amps...how does that work out?
 
Photo on Festool USA website shows a plug it cord in the package (also shows a cord coming out or router).  The instruction manual says it draws 15A, and to use a 16AWG cord.  I'm not saying it doesn't have a fixed cord, just pointing out someone photobombed the product shot with a plug-it cord.  I never knew till this moment it's a built in cord.

image

Sorry I can't figure out how to get their image directly in here.  It's the one showing the systainer and other bits.
 
DeformedTree said:
Photo on Festool USA website shows a plug it cord in the package (also shows a cord coming out or router). 

The instruction manual says it draws 15A, and to use a 16AWG cord. 

  [popcorn]

[attachimg=1]

  [popcorn]

[attachimg=2]

[attachimg=3]
 

Attachments

  • ea0b394a-338a-11e9-80f8-005056b31774_800_533.jpg
    ea0b394a-338a-11e9-80f8-005056b31774_800_533.jpg
    54.5 KB · Views: 418
  • Screen Shot 2020-03-12 at 8.25.53 AM.png
    Screen Shot 2020-03-12 at 8.25.53 AM.png
    72.8 KB · Views: 420
  • Screen Shot 2020-03-12 at 8.20.16 AM.png
    Screen Shot 2020-03-12 at 8.20.16 AM.png
    88.5 KB · Views: 438
Cheese said:
DeformedTree said:
My TS55 is my most powerful Festool Tool, so I don't know what the cord on say a OF2200 looks like.

Well interestingly enough, the largest Plug-It cord Festool offers for any of their tools is a 16 gauge cord. A 16 gauge cord is nominally rated for 10 amps of current. The US version of the OF 2200 at max can draw 18 amps...how does that work out?

Temperature ratings.  The cords are 105C rated, thus can handle far more amps.  Don't confuse with the ratings used for house wiring which are for lower temp rating, NM-B is 90C rated, but by code is limited to 60C Ampacity Rating.  NM-B is also 600V, so the materials/temp ratings have to work to maintain the higher voltage rating too.  16AWG with 105C insulation is good for around 25A  (will vary based one wire type, environmental conditions)
 
SRSemenza said:
OF2200 is hard wired 14ga.

Seth

Well yes, then the picture shouldn't show a Plug-It cord next it. I assume you will get that fixed?  [tongue]
 
usernumber1 said:
so reading about the cord ratings... what's the most flexible?
SJOW/SJOOW or SJTW or SJEW or ?
http://www.chem.cmu.edu/groups/bier/procedure_files/general/powercords.pdf

would 14/3 be sufficient, it's up to 18A and the NA wall plugs around here are all using 15A fuses

In a general sense, anything with a “t” or “e” in the letter description will be the plastic type outer insulation and this is what the CT vacs use in our US  models. Any SJ, SJO, SO, SOO, etc are going to be rubber and are more flexible than any cords with the “T” for thermal-set or “E” for  Thermoplastic Elastomer.

However, all rubber cords are not equal. There are some really nice ones and lesser brands.
But in general just avoid anything with a “T” or “E”.

Edited to add details of “E”
 
Alex said:
Joebuck said:
Maybe I should just open up the unit and install the yellow jacket directly to the terminals. What do you think?

Best plan, for the best connection. And no worries about warranty, if you need it just swap the original cord back and no one will know.

I decided to just go with the original solution to this issue as posted way back in 2017. Bought the cord wrap adapter for a CT unit, popped it onto my Midi (which already contains the perfect pre-drilled holes). I did have to shave off the oval profile with a disk sander, as the Midi is nearly flat, but after that, it fits perfect, and now winding the cord onto the back of the vacuum is a breeze. Sure, its still wonky laying on the ground, but I can deal with that. So in the end, no cord change, $13 bucks, and problem solved.
 

Attachments

  • E4D6E81F-D3B6-410F-998C-D30C4252CDAD.jpeg
    E4D6E81F-D3B6-410F-998C-D30C4252CDAD.jpeg
    434.3 KB · Views: 243
Back
Top