Technique Question On GRS-16 and GRS -16 PE

[lshah72414]

Just used my TSO  Grs-16 and Grs -16 PE for the first time. Made two cuts, very easy to use and cuts were  to be identical sizes, and they were. Loved it! However, I did cuts on my MFT table. I noticed now I have two seperate cut lines. I assume as time goes on I will have many different cut lines and loss of dust control, possibly ditch out on my MFT.

On breakdown of  large sheet goods, I made a frame which I attach to saw horses and have a two inch piece of styrofoam so I don't care where cut lines are and Grs-16 and 16-PE should do great.

My question is to those who own these products how do you handle this conundrum? How do you line up so you don't have cut lines all over the place? Is this how it is for you? Am I doing something wrong? Should I be doing something different? Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[TSO_Products]

@Ishah72414 - how are you using the GRS-16 or GRS-16 PE Guide Rail Square in conjunction with the MFT/3?
can you post a picture?

If you are cutting sheets which are small enough to cut on one or multiple connected MFT's, you can simply attach the GRS-16 PE to the FESTOOL hinge bracket and your cut-line will always be in the exact same line.

Hans

 

[Rick Herrick]

Just to add on to what Hans says... I do the styrofoam deal for breaking down the full sheet, using both of the GRS squares.  I just created my first MFT-like table using the Parf MKII system.  Using my FT rail and some UJK rail clips and Super Parf Dogs, and some type of fence, you can set it up so that every cut is using the same cut line. 

 

[peter halle]

Or you can take the approach that I use - cut away and then eventually rotate, flip, and eventually replace.  Personally I found that at times I was wasting far too much time trying to maximize dust collection. 

Peter

 

[lshah72414]

Thanks to all for the replies.
As far as cutting, I lay the wood on MFT, all MFT/3 equipment is removed, just a plain MFT.  I placed the GRS-16 on bottom of festool rail that came with MFT/3 and placed the GRS-16 PE on top of rail and butted the 16 against the workpiece and then adjusted the 16-PE against the top. I then cut my piece.
I Think Rick Herrick is right, to get repeatable lines of cut I will need some type of stop to but my rail up against. It was obvious  [unsure] after he said it, but, I had watched videos on how to use and blindly followed the video. As I said , it was easy to use and I was pleased with my cuts. Just perplexed at the different cut lines.
[member=1674]Peter Halle[/member], I am to cheap to just cut, flip and replace [laughing].
Thank you, Hans , Peter , and Rick.

 

[Rick Herrick]

Are you familiar with the New Brit Workshop videos?  Peter Parfitt is a member here and produces many videos that are very helpful.  Search YouTube if you haven't already.  Here is a quick look at a couple that could help.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

I built a 4’ x 8’ work table from 3-MFT style slabs. I have lots of TSO products including the GRS’s. I have two 4’ x 4’ 1/4” thick ply that I use as waste boards to avoid cutting through the MFT tops.

 

[gunnyr]

I consider the work tops to be sacrificial, If I need to clamp my work I will cut into the work surface without thought.  If I'm simply breaking down sheet goods using my GRS-16 or parallel guide I generally cut on foam as others have mentioned.  I don't find that the dust collection is much compromised even with a well worn work surface.