Tell me about your favorite auto polisher...

[live4ever]

So to update, I did get the Rupes LHR15 II and used it with Lake Country ThinPro pads.  Overall I really like the polisher - smooth and definitely not as jumpy as the Rotex 150.  I think the RO150 does work a little faster given that it has some rotary action.

The combo of the Rupes and the RO90 was pretty sweet.  I just love the RO90's weight and size for all the nooks and crannies.  Made doing the initial correction on my wife's new Model 3 a real pleasure.

 

[Cheese]

Overall I really like the polisher - smooth and definitely not as jumpy as the Rotex 150. 

The combo of the Rupes and the RO90 was pretty sweet.  I just love the RO90's weight and size for all the nooks and crannies. 

Ya, I noticed that when buffing the roof/hood/trunk, the areas where the RO 125 was being held at arms length, it did want to bounce a bit.  However that was corrected with a quick repositioning of the hands.  [big grin]

That Large & Small combo is pretty sweet.  [thumbs up]

I'm also interested in what compounds/polishes/glazes you/everyone is using?

 

[Dick Mahany]

I'm also interested in what compounds/polishes/glazes you/everyone is using?

I'm using the Megs 105/205 combination however as several have mentioned, I do spend more time than I'd like cleaning the remnants up (even though I tape all seams, trim and openings).  I tried some Menzerna SF4500 (may have a new name now?  EDIT: Now called SF3800 in their new packaging scheme) as a final polish on a Navy blue Tahoe.  Made my eyes pop as it imparted a shine like I had never achieved previously.  Plan on switching to more Menzerna now, but the 105/205 sure worked well for so many years.

For small touch up jobs I find the standard retail Megs Ultimate Compound does a respectable job.

Using the Flex XC3401 VRG with 25' cord and the Flex PE 14-2 150 and couldn't be happier.  I recently acquired an RO90 however have not yet tried polishing with it.

[attachimg=1]

 

[RKA]

This is probably a stupid question, but when using a Rotex, do you use it in RO or Rotex mode?  Any other tips or cautions when using a Rotex for car polishing?  TIA

Not a stupid question at all...yes use the Rotex mode, the RO 125 max's out at 600 rpm. That's probably right at the edge of function vs efficiency. The 2 Shinex versions turn at 600-1400 rpm and 900-2100 rpm and that's using a 150mm pad.

Still, it's pretty slick.

I think the main take away is if you're not aggressive enough it just takes more time to break down the polish and work the paint.  That's okay, you'll work faster as you get more comfortable.  If you're too aggressive, the paint will heat up, the polish might dry and gum up and you'll start to get frustrated.  Back off the speed and/or pressure if you get this far.  Do note that metal panels and plastic panels behave differently.  Metal dissipates the heat better, so you can be more aggressive.  For plastic panels the heat builds up faster.  Generally I back off the speed 1-2 notches on the dial.  Touch your hand to the surface as you work.  Warm is fine, hot is not.  If you want, use an infrared gun to measure the temps.  Usually around 120F is as far as you need to go (I think - I've just checked by hand to make sure I'm not getting too hot when I'm concentrating on a particular spot on a plastic panel, so that number is my faint recollection from somewhere on the net).

 

[live4ever]

I'm also interested in what compounds/polishes/glazes you/everyone is using?

I'm using mostly Chemical Guys stuff.  For polishes, I have their V32, 34, 36, and 38 (got them as a set during a deal).  I tend to use the V34 and V38 combination most, which easily handles swirls and most light clear coat scratches.  Final polish with V38 on a white pad.  That gets me corrected and ready for glaze or wax.  Then I use Chemical Guys' Blacklight (glaze/sealant) as my final step, which is awesome on dark paint.  Maintain with Hybrid V07 spray sealant. 

For my wife's new car I'm going a different route because the paint is too frickin soft (built/painted in CA).  The paint swirls if your microfiber even looks at it funny  [blink].  So honestly the less I touch it the better.  DIY ceramic coating for that car, but I polished with V34/V38 to prepare for that. 

 

[live4ever]

[member=21249]RKA[/member] or anyone else...
How do you know how far is too far when you're correcting out scratches?  I had a clear coat scratch I was trying to polish out with the Rupes and an orange pad.  Scratch doesn't catch a fingernail so definitely would be considered polishable.  But the Rupes was taking quite a while to get it out (and I realize not being rotary it's going to be slower), but how long could I keep going without wearing down the clear coat too far?  I realize one could use a paint depth gauge, but any other tips or rules of thumb?

 

[RKA]

I generally don't worry about it as long as my fingernail doesn't catch on it.  I'll keep working that spot until it's 90-100% gone.  The RO machines don't remove material like a rotary polisher.  If it's really taking a long time, just like sandpaper, you need to step up to a more aggressive polish and pad.  But it's not a bad thing to start off with something mild that works for the overall condition of the paint, then go back and touch up the areas that aren't right with something more aggressive as needed. 

Just to complicate matters, realize that polishes are different.  Some have diminishing abrasives, where the abrasives break down into smaller particles as you work them.  That gives a single polish a very wide range of work, from initially correcting to bringing out some luster as you finish.  For something like you're describing, you may need repeated applications, working the polish for 2-4 minutes with each cycle or just get a polish that does not have a diminishing abrasive, which you can continue to work until it starts to dry up on you. 

 

[kevinculle]

Porter Cable 7424

 

[Cheese]

I buffed out the car last fall using the Rotex 125 and some Festool pads. I was delighted with the results.

As a final step, I applied Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0. I applied the Wolfgang in mid October and the car sits outside 24/7. Snow, rain, sun, tree sap, the car location bears the brunt of all the weather thrown at it.

Last week it was finally warm enough to give it a good hand washing. Initially there was no beading up of water and the paint looked rather flat. However after the initial washing, while I was rinsing off the car, the water was once again beading up on the surface.

So the Wolfgang sealant was applied 6 months ago and the car hasn't been washed once in 6 months. There is however, some level of protection still on the surface. That's pretty impressive. A waxed surface would have been toast within 2 months.
https://www.autogeek.net/wg5500.html

 

[sancho57]

My most favorite auto polisher is Jose who works at the hand car wash about 12mins away from my house.

 

[Cheese]

On topic...kind of...

Yesterday I was told that Festool is closing up shop on their polishing supplies, much the same way they did on their Surfix product line. The first to go MIA is their line of waffle sponge pads for the Shinex and the RO 90/125/150 sanders. The distributor said everything polishing related was going away but he didn't know about the 2 Shinex polishers.

So, Fair Warning.

 

[rst]

I use Chemical Guys hex logic pads with my RO-150, My Makita polisher for buffing and just received a Flex PXE 80 for small areas.  I also have Milwaukee's 12v polisher.  Almost finished polishing my 1999 Airstream which had been sitting for the last 8 years.  Some of the clearcoat has started peeling and the white paint that was on the roof panels was chalking badly and had stained the sides but all that polished off.

 

[Chainring]

I wonder if Festool doesn't have the market presence here in the US to justify keeping the polishing products going? They do have some stiff competition from a number of other manufacturers.

For polishing, I have a Flex 3401 VRG. I'm debating on whether I need it or not, given I have a RO 150 and the polishing pad. I also have the RO 90 and polishing pad, but haven't purchased any foamies yet.

 

[Cheese]

I also have the RO 90 and polishing pad, but haven't purchased any foamies yet.

I use the RO 90 for polishing out headlight covers...it's the perfect size.

 

[Chainring]

I use the RO 90 for polishing out headlight covers...it's the perfect size.

That's exactly why I purchased the RO 90 polishing pad. Well, for small areas, too, but they're fewer.

 

[derekcohen]

I have the 5" random orbit/dual action (RO/DA) Rupes (mk 3), which has a 21-23mm orbit, for the wide areas; and a 3" RO/DA STPA (superb Rupes knockoff) for the small sections. I use Rupes products. Both these machines are an absolute pleasure to use. Minimal vibration, which is important since a polishing can take a few hours (thankfully not often).

These are very forgiving machines, which is important for an infrequent user, such as myself. IMPORTANTLY, the polishers run at a much slower speed than sanders (such as Festools), and the latter are NOT recommended for polishing paint.

Wash is via BigBoi pressure washer and foam cannon, and then a (cheapish) dog dryer vacuum cleaner to hands-free dry the car - fantastic for water lodged in crevices!).

20 years old. Original paint ...

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Cheese]

She's pretty Derek...from this distance she looks better than when she came off the assembly line.  [smile]

So maybe now I'll throw out this question, I use Menzerna products, specifically 2500, 3200 & 3800. Menzerna products were supposedly developed with the approval of Porsche, BMW, Audi, Mercedes, Maybach, and Corvette among others. I'm just curious if anyone knows how Festool polish 5010, 9010 & 11010 compare to the Menzerna product offering?

I've also heard that Menzerna produces the Festool polishes but have been unable to substantiate that claim.

Also, has anyone tried the Swissvax line of waxes? $325 for 50 ml of carnauba wax seems like a stretch.
https://swissvax.us/collections/wax