template guides and proper bits

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Sep 25, 2013
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149
In all my varied experience, using a router template guide is something i've actually never had to do.  From what I've seen, you can get, for example, a template guide with an 11 mm ID (Festool's has a 13.8 mm OD), and use an 11mm straight bit, but then your template has to be sized appropriately to make up the offset.

But what if I want to make my actual first piece and then copy it instead of using a separate template to make all my pieces?  Can that be done with a guide template?  Or would I need to use a flush trim bit?  If the latter is the case, is that advisable for a decent-sized cutout in 1/2 ply? 

Any advice would be appreciated.  Thanks.
 
I use these ,
41YN9DVBA8L._SX385_.jpg
I like these as they are inexpensive , work as a template bit have "3" flutes , last a long time , cut very clean due to the added 3 flutes instead of 2

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GYG2WA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

AND you can use these top bearings ones

http://www.cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=RBC~81120c~2

or these

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-RB06.XX/Whiteside_Template__Router_Bits

I just ordered these from WoodPecker they were on Sale last week
I got the 1/2" shank ones
main_combobit.jpg

http://www.woodpeck.com/whitesideflushtemplate.html

these work as well but the cut is not as deep but will work fine on 1/2" stock

http://www.woodpeck.com/whitesidetemplatebits.html

Most important on all of these is keeping the bearing well oiled before & after each cut
I use them to copy a speakers motor board & can make exact copies
I do a rough cut 1st to remove some of the stock (jig saw ) so the bit is not cutting 180 degrees , make the bits last longer & makes the cutting quicker  
I was doing large horn & woofer openings

 
thanks for all the input!  I wound up going with the top bearing bit, I just like to see my whole "template" piece while doing the work.  I was aware of these types of bits and have used them before, I just thought that there was a way to do this with guide bushings without having to use an offset template.
 
Looking at the router bits with those bearings surely then there is no offset? Appears to me if you make your template final size, the bearing will follow and cut your new piece to same size as template so theres no offset required.
 
you are correct.  My issue is with using a template guide ring.  the pattern bits will duplicate exactly to your template, and i've had plenty of experience using them.  Using a guide ring, you have to make a template with a bigger hole than your final piece, which i didn't realize.
 
Aha, then simply don't use one, seems unnecessary in this case using those bearing type bits.
[smile]
 
again, you are correct.  I was mostly looking to try something new.  now that i do understand how they work, i would say i wouldn't ever get them unless i had to make a whole gang of pieces off the same template.  like at least 50.  even then it'd be a maybe.
 
Anyone use these before?  Most specifically, the 2" down shear bits?  Looking to pick up a long life "template" bit, and this one seems promising.  I also like the 3 flutes in the lower portion of their chart.

cheers

Bryan
 
You have to be careful with the top bearing bits - any rocking/tilting of the router sends the cutter into the workpiece, but with the bottom bearing the cutter moves away if you tilt, not causing any damage.
 
I've got the Freud 3/4 down shear helix in a 2 inch length. I think it is one of the best bits I have ever used. It leaves an almost polished edge with no tear out on the top on the hard maple I have trimmed with it. I have used it with the OF2000.

Linbro - it is also possible to rock the router and gouge the top edge of the work  with the bottom bearing bits as well. Like most processes, you need to use proper technique and pay attention to what you are doing.
 
rvieceli said:
I've got the Freud 3/4 down shear helix in a 2 inch length. I think it is one of the best bits I have ever used. It leaves an almost polished edge with no tear out on the top on the hard maple I have trimmed with it. I have used it with the OF2000.

Linbro - it is also possible to rock the router and gouge the top edge of the work  with the bottom bearing bits as well. Like most processes, you need to use proper technique and pay attention to what you are doing.

Great to know.  I know I had a link on the site, did it potentially get removed for some sort of violation?  It was to the product page on Amazon... strange.

 
rvieceli said:
I've got the Freud 3/4 down shear helix in a 2 inch length. I think it is one of the best bits I have ever used. It leaves an almost polished edge with no tear out on the top on the hard maple I have trimmed with it. I have used it with the OF2000.

Linbro - it is also possible to rock the router and gouge the top edge of the work  with the bottom bearing bits as well. Like most processes, you need to use proper technique and pay attention to what you are doing.

Yep, agree with that - much easier to tip off the edge of your template though.
 
I've used that bottom bearing Bosch 3 flute(linked above) many times in all sorts of stock  MDF , Oak ply , Oak , Pine ,masonite, formica topped chipboard  and never got any tearout at all . I've been using that Bosch model# bit for years now  [cool]
a near mirror surface cut & exact size as the template  [thumbs up] best part they are inexpensive for a carbide edged bit
 
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