The Long and the Short of Guide Rails

[rjhidaho]

I anticipate purchasing my first Festool product -- the TS 55 Plunge Cut Saw.

My primary, at least initially, will be cutting down sheet goods.

Since I will want to cut down the 8' dimension, is there a "preferred" solution:

1. Buy an additional 55" guide rail that connects with the initial 55" guide rail (with necessary connectors) (This seems less expensive)

2. Buy a 118" guide rail for 8' cuts.  (This seems more convenient)

What are the pros/cons of each approach

rjh

 

[Brice Burrell]

  I went with the join two rails approach because I take my show on the road everyday. If you stay in the shop, I'd get the long rail. Its not hard to join rails, but I'm sure it is easier to just use the long rail. Two or more rails joined have to be, first aligned properly and they checked after a few cuts to be sure you are still good to go. Thats my 2 cents.

 

[Ned]

Welcome, RJH.

You'll be interested in this thread:  Never buy the same size rail.

If you're in the shop all the time and cutting a lot of sheet goods, it would be hard to beat having a single long rail for the full-sheet-lengthwise cuts. 

If you're cutting sheet goods, want to buy only one more rail, and want the most versatile one, I would add the 1900 to the 1400 you'll get with the saw.  In fact, I did.

You'll need two connectors to join the rails.  The lever action clamps, while expensive, will be the first ones you grab if you have them.

Ned

 

[Greg_R]

rjh,
  I'd get a 75" vs an additional 55" rail which would give you plenty of infeed and outfeed for 4' crosscuts and the same for 8' rips (when combined with the 55" rail).  I ended up getting the single long rail because of the convenience of not having to realign 2 rails every time I needed a long rip.

 

[vteknical]

I've connecting two 55's for two years now.  I will be purchasing the 2700 before the price increase.  Connecting the rails is somewhat of a pain when you need exact repetitive long cuts for an extended period.  You will also need to tinker around with both rails to find with ends to butt together to get a straight line. 

At first I trusted the rails were perfectly 90 at the ends only to find out different in the finished product.  You will also have to slightly bevel file the edges of the rails so the saw can smoothly glide over the seam without interference.  I called Festool Tech support and they recommended finding the true egdes by trial and error cutting then marking the ends.  Not too much of an issue. 

For me I would still much rather schlep a long rail from job to job than join two rails hoping my cuts are perfectly straight on 1,000.00 imported from Germany, that takes 12-14 weeks to replace cabinet side panel.

In the end this is really a personal preference.

 

[spikfot]

I ordered a 2400 today.  lots of rips next week.  very tired of screwing rails together and checking.
if you don't get a one-piece now, you will wish you had later. 

 

[vteknical]

Hi Spikfot,
Are you going to use the 2400 for 8' rips?  I know it doesn't cover completely but will 1/2" short on each side compromise the cut?

 

[woodpicker]

Note that your guild rails always have to be longer than your wood. Otherwise the TS55/75 won't be able to lock into a perfect straight position, both green dials on the rail, before and after the cut.

 

[honeydoman]

i used to use the 78 and then move it to finish the cut.  finally broke down and bought the longer one I think 106 and it is great for ripping sheet goods down, then I went out and bought the 95" with the holes for bookcase.  that one is sweet and saves me time from moving the 32 from end to end and them flip them over.

but if you do sheet good break down the longer one is much better, and as said hooking them together is okay. but if you got the bucks go with the longer one, it will last forever and you will be glad you did

 

[Corwin]

I know it doesn't cover completely but will 1/2" short on each side compromise the cut?

YES!  I have many of the different sized rails and would have to recommend the 75" and 118" rails as 'best' for 4'x8' sheet goods.  As noted above, the saws guides (w/green adjustment knobs) should not be allowed beyond either end of the rail during a cut.  This equates to something like 10 3/4" extra rail at the leading edge and about 3" or so at the aft edge of the cut with the TS55 -- so a rail at least 14" longer than the cut will work nicely.  If you want to join multiple MFTs, or other setup where a fence eats up some extra distance, you may want a rail even longer -- at least 3" - 4" longer.

With care, two rails will work just fine.  The advantage in the longer rail is that you can handle it without concern of any deviation.  This becomes even more a factor when you want to setup for longer cuts MFT style.  I have used the 118" rail spanning three MFTs -- using the MFT's guide rail brackets (hinged).  Works great!  Wouldn't attempt that with joined rails.

Best luck, and keep on posting.
Corwin

On Edit:  The 55" rail is a great example; one is about as short as you want to go for a plunge cut into and across 4', two joined are as short as you want to plunge before the material and cut across 8'. 

 

[semenza]

Hi,

  I have to agree that the long rails are nice. I have the 55" , 75", and 118".

    You can reliably join two rails for the long cuts. But having the 118" rail will save you a bunch of time. If you use two joined rails you will either have to make all long or short cuts first, thus handling the material twice. Or keep joining and seperating the rails to switch between cut lengths. Unless you have three short rails, but then you might as well get one long and one short.  The 55" rail is long enough for a 48" cut, just. I like using the 75" for crosscutting plywood because it is easier with a little extra at each end. The 106" will do 8' cuts but the 118" gives a little extra there also.

    Like others have said, if you go with two short- get the 75" . Much more versatile that way.

      Here is another thread   http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=1508.0 

Seth

 

[vteknical]

Corwin and Semenza
Thanks that clears it up for me which one to buy.  118"

Hopefully this info will help rjhidaho in choosing the right one for his needs too.

 

[spikfot]

Hi Spikfot,
Are you going to use the 2400 for 8' rips?  I know it doesn't cover completely but will 1/2" short on each side compromise the cut?

I use the 2400 to rip fingerjointed birch 27/610/2400, and 18/400/2400 solid panels, transforming them magically into treads and handrails for a closed let-in winder stairway.  When I need a 3000 I borrow it from a friend.  I specifically want the 2400 because it fits in my toyota shell, and my covered trailer perfectly. locked-up dry and safe.
  My experience is that it is ok to stop and shift a guide forward for cuts over 2 meters,  leaving around 1 meter behind for straight reference. this depends on your eye and your feel for the saw.
  Also, the overhang for a rail is more crucial at the beginning of a cut than the end.
  These comments apply to circlesaw cutting, and not to other applications such as routing.

 

[rjhidaho]

Thanks for all your input.  Sounds like (with cost not a factor) that a preferred solution is to get the 75 and 118 lengths for  4' x 8' sheet good cutdown.

rjh

 

[rodwolfy]

Thanks for all your input.  Sounds like (with cost not a factor) that a preferred solution is to get the 75 and 118 lengths for  4' x 8' sheet good cutdown.

rjh

R,

Actually, I bought the 3000mm and got the 55" one with the saw. If you were only going to get two, these are the ones that I'd get (again). Perfect setup for around my shop. I can crosscut with the 55" one and then rip sheets down with the 118" one. I got the 118" in case I wanted to make a partially diagonal cut on a sheet & have room before the cut (more difficult with the 106" one).

Rod

 

[Steveo48]

Thanks for all your input.  Sounds like (with cost not a factor) that a preferred solution is to get the 75 and 118 lengths for  4' x 8' sheet good cutdown.

rjh

I saw a finish carpenter pull his long rail (I'm guessing 118") out of a piece of PVC drain pipe with a cap on one end and threaded plug on the other.  He drilled 2 holes in it to fit a simple rope handle and stored it on a rack over his PU.  He was busy, so I politely looked from a distance.

I only own the 55" rail, but will purchase the 118" rail to continue working on my kitchen.  Right now I'm using a  big Unisaw to split 8' sheets but don't have that luxury at home.

 

[Frank Pellow]

Three 1400 mm rails (as well as the shorter ones that cames with my two MFTs) work out perfectly for me.

• They can be easily transported in the special-purpose case that I made.
• I can rip long boards on site by joining the three together.
• When cutting shhet goods, I use one 1400 rail for cross cuts and keep the other two joined together for full-length cuts.
• Simple cross cutting of is done using one rail on my smaller MFT which I take to the job site.

Of course, things are even easier in my shop.   

 

[mastercabman]

Thanks for all your input.  Sounds like (with cost not a factor) that a preferred solution is to get the 75 and 118 lengths for  4' x 8' sheet good cutdown.

rjh

I saw a finish carpenter pull his long rail (I'm guessing 118") out of a piece of PVC drain pipe with a cap on one end and threaded plug on the other.   He drilled 2 holes in it to fit a simple rope handle and stored it on a rack over his PU.  He was busy, so I politely looked from a distance.

I only own the 55" rail, but will purchase the 118" rail to continue working on my kitchen.  Right now I'm using a  big Unisaw to split 8' sheets but don't have that luxury at home.

how big was this pvc pipe?
i'm curious because the rail is pretty wide (7-8"wide?just guessing)

 

[Woodenfish]

I purchased the 1900mm rail along with the 1400mm one that came with the TS 55 in order to not only cross cut 4' x 8' sheets but 5' x 5' sheets of Baltic Birch too. I'm linking these two together for now on the long rips but definetely will get the big 3000mm one during the Festool March Madness sale.

 

[Steveo48]

Thanks for all your input.  Sounds like (with cost not a factor) that a preferred solution is to get the 75 and 118 lengths for  4' x 8' sheet good cutdown.

rjh

I saw a finish carpenter pull his long rail (I'm guessing 118") out of a piece of PVC drain pipe with a cap on one end and threaded plug on the other.   He drilled 2 holes in it to fit a simple rope handle and stored it on a rack over his PU.  He was busy, so I politely looked from a distance.

I only own the 55" rail, but will purchase the 118" rail to continue working on my kitchen.  Right now I'm using a  big Unisaw to split 8' sheets but don't have that luxury at home.

how big was this pvc pipe?
i'm curious because the rail is pretty wide (7-8"wide?just guessing)

I'm not certain, big enough to fit the rail into it.  I checked the Festool website and they list the length, not the width.  PVC pipe can be had at really large ID's.  I've seen plumber's use the large diameter stuff to carry smaller household pipe on their trucks.