This seems overpriced but easily made--it might make a good gift.

[Packard]

This grow light frame seems overpriced.  It appears to be an led grow light on a timer mounted in a potting box.  I may make one as a gift.  It certainly won't cost nearly $300.00 to make.

LED grow light strips cost $15.00 on Amazon.com
A timer costs $9.00 on Amazon.com

The frame looks to me like something I could make from scrap lumber left over from other jobs.  Cost $0.00

Hardware:  minimal

The biggest expense would be the succulents. 

The images are deceptive.  It requires a powercord.  That is not shown. 

https://www.thegrommet.com/products...p_merch-recs_1st_nocamp_launch-hh_pro-no_t-no

 

[mino]

Well, for one, you can make it a beautiful piece of furniture while this (metal ?) one is very ugly. I cannot imagine having this in a room ... and for $300 erhm. erhm.

One thing I would do though is keep note it is metal - if it is from INOX (and it better be as there will be water poured in) then it can explain the price.

So the best approach is to take a water-tight plastic/metal flowerpot or a flowerpot carrier and build a frame around it. I would also not leave the sides exposed, just the front. Kinda like a built-in aquarium. The growing light will ensure enough light.

The last thing, the whole assembly seems a bit too low - not leaving much room for the plants to grow. If the grow light was a bit higher or, better, adjustable, it would be more practical IMO.

 

[Packard]

I was thinking of this as a two-tiered arrangement.  The grow lights are 13½" long.  It gets cheaper as I read more carefully.  The grow lights include the timer.  No separate timer is required. 

I'm not sure about the requirement for stainless steel.  Especially for succulents which will require minimal watering. 

The description only says "Stainless steel mounting hardware". No reference to the body of the unit or what that material is. 

I assumed this was powder-coated.  Cedar would make a nice look in my opinion and I have one board sitting in my pile of lumber in the basement. 
https://www.amazon.com/GooingTop-60...G/ref=sr_1_16?crid=34WZP1G2TZK98&keywords=led+strip+grow+lights&qid=1648570962&sprefix=led+strip+grow+lights%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-16

 

[mino]

...
I'm not sure about the requirement for stainless steel.  Especially for succulents which will require minimal watering. 

I meant the original piece better be stainless - which can explain the price.

For your stuff, given the structural will be wood, IMO plastic water-tight pot with a structure around will be better. Yeah, if it is limited to non-water stuff then great.

One thing I have learned about gifts over the years is to never presume how people will use them. The last thing I would want to do is doing a lecture to the person on how he/she should "properly" use the gift. Removes all the magic from the moment.

If it cannot survive (a bit of) improper use, I rather not give the thing.

 

[Packard]

It does not appear that the original is stainless steel.  And cedar will tolerate water.  A plastic tray of some sort would resolve the water issue (for dripping onto the floor). 

No real strength requirements, so glue and nails will probably be fine.  This sounds like a quick build, after I locate the appropriate trays.  They might have them at the plant nursery.

 

[Packard]

I just got another email on this.  It says, "Getting low", and "just 20 left".  I guess it is going to sell out.  It still seems over-priced to me.

 

[mino]

I just got another email on this.  It says, "Getting low", and "just 20 left".  I guess it is going to sell out.  It still seems over-priced to me.

Or they ever had like 21 in stock to begin ..  [big grin]

 

[Packard]

Could be.  I just looked back at the original offering and they made no mention of the inventory.  I did see that it is made from "laser cut steel", a slow and expensive way to fabricate.  It does not say "stainless" anywhere except on the hanging hardware.  I would guess it is powder-coated. 

This weekend I will look to see if I can find an appropriate-sized plastic tray.  If I can, I will  make one of these as a test (to hang in my house). 

I agree that gifts should not have cautionary footnotes.  So testing one is a good way to eliminate that issue.

 

[peter halle]

[member=74278]Packard[/member] , Maybe look for a plastic window box liner. 

Peter

 

[Peter_C]

I would recommend buying a sky light instead  [tongue]

One of my favorite materials to work with is Corian, which would be perfect for a project like this. Could bend up the front and put some curvy details into it. We have serious hydroponic stores all around us for grow lights, but if you need grow lights, a sky light might be a better investment, or knock a wall down.

 

[Packard]

Thanks for the replies.  When I go to the nursery I will look at window box liners.

The skylight does not sound cost effective.  Knocking down a wall would make the house drafty, so I think I will skip that option too. [big grin]

 

[Bob D.]

You'll think I'm crazy but for a scaled down version of this I was thinking of a mud pan.
They are available in plastic and SS and about 13 inches long. You could make a nice
sized one using one of those pans, even the SS versions are less than $15, plastic is
about $11.

I may give that a go. Thanks for the idea.

 

[Ron B]

Or if you want a longer one, use two mud pans.

 

[Packard]

I have both a plastic one and a stainless steel one. Th size seems about right, but it seems way too deep.

I’ll see how the plastic one cuts on the band saw.

 

[mino]

I have both a plastic one and a stainless steel one. Th size seems about right, but it seems way too deep.

I’ll see how the plastic one cuts on the band saw.

If it breaks (very likely) try supporting the material with pieces of wood on the "exiting" side of the blade. Or at lease some duck tape there. The saw blade creates a lot of vibrations which cause thin unsupported plastics to shatter. I have had it even with plastics which is otherwise pretty tough.

Another ways is - when I was cutting my Systainers, I used the TSC with a minimal-depth cut, a plastics/aluminum blade and lowest speed. That way I was able to cut off top 5 cm from a SYS4 without any plastics breakage. Needed to go very slow, but it worked.

 

[Packard]

I have a small bandsaw.  I am not sure I have enough throat to  cut this.  I might try using my angle grinder, but I'm not sure what blade to use.

I have been successful cutting brittle plastic in the past using a all steel plywood blade with the direction of the teeth reversed (mount the blade backwards).  That might be my best option.  Set the blade shallow and cut both lengths and then  use a hacksaw to cut the ends. 

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Another ways is - when I was cutting my Systainers, I used the TSC with a minimal-depth cut, a plastics/aluminum blade and lowest speed. That way I was able to cut off top 5 cm from a SYS4 without any plastics breakage. Needed to go very slow, but it worked.

Ok, I'll bite. Why would you cut 5cm off the top a of Sys4?

 

[usernumber1]

This is a little disappointing to read on this forum. The cost of materials and manufacturing is one thing but the design also has a value not to mention the market value is completely independent from everything.

The cherry on top is that folks have no issue acknowledging that the design is worth something since they are discussing material choices and ways to copy

 

[mino]

Another ways is - when I was cutting my Systainers, I used the TSC with a minimal-depth cut, a plastics/aluminum blade and lowest speed. That way I was able to cut off top 5 cm from a SYS4 without any plastics breakage. Needed to go very slow, but it worked.

Ok, I'll bite. Why would you cut 5cm off the top a of Sys4?

I have a T-Loc top fitted (with a lockable catch) and afixed to my city e-bike back carrier. I took the top from a SYS4 and then proceeded to cut-off the top of that SYS4 bottom about 5cm to use that as an open-top bin when going about - to serve as a standard but detachable bike bin.

It came off as 5cm as on T-Locs there are reinforcing ribs all-around the systainer exactly 5cm from top - the bottom of the label holders ans similar is also on the back at the same height. When one cuts of the systainer top at that height, the strength is fully retained and the "edge" gets wider as a bonus. The idea was to make the top a bit lower, to make edges smooth/rounded and a bit more stable even without the top which normally stabilizes it. It stays locked to the bike when used like this, so the lack of any way to grab it is a non-issue. And it still can be easily removed. I actually found myself using it as a portable bin a bit more than expected. When full with groceries, it is convenient to carry them in it all the way to the fridge.

The reason I have it this way is that I can easily carry about SYS5 height in Systainers on my ebike when going to/from the shop which is about 3 miles. Allows me to avoid pulling out a bike trailer or a car when need to move just a couple tools. Also have one SYS I and one SYS II rigged with internal foams to transport sensitive stuff like hard drives etc. Works a sharm and protects stuff also from the elements, including sudden cold etc.

The T-Loc system is surprisingly good for this as it is a very tight fit which handles vibration well. And when it get a bit wobbly, there is nothign easier than putting a couple layers of tape on the interface surfaces to restore a tight fit.
Handles the vibrations better than a pretty high-end ($150) Ortlieb quick-lock system I used before that. That system handled itself well, but became rattly pretty fast and there was no practical way to resolve it given its interface design.

 

[Sparktrician]

I might suggest getting a Rubbermaid (or other) tote in the most appropriate size, then do a cut-out in the correct dimensions such that one can simply drop the tote bottom into the cut-out.  It's easily removable for cleaning/draining.  [smile]