Thoughts on Osmo Poly X

kurtww said:
Yes, I'm just talking about the floor. In fact I'm redoing it with the same Osmo but only because we're selling and I need it to match.

I am not sure how it would hold up on cabinets. If it's out of any splash range, and you only use the handles to open them, I suspect it would hold up fine.

For what it's worth, I've had Osmo on my kitchen cabinets for about 3 years.  They seem to be holding up well, although you can see where some water was left on the face of one of them, if you look at it in the right light.  I suspect that would be easy to fix.
 
[member=59039]mrFinpgh[/member]: You could try Osmo 3081 (or another variation of the same product) to get those stains out. I did this with a bathroom vanity and it worked great. Maybe it will work for you too.
 
My wife has done a lot of finishing of cabinets in our previous homes, and her favorite is tung oil, although it takes a while to cure. It’s held up well for many years.

How does OsmoX compare in curing time, odor, and durability compared with tung oil?
 
Thompmd said:
ChuckM said:
I highly recommend that you try the Osmo, not because it's a game-changer like the Domino Joiner in joinery work. It's not. By trying it out yourself (using the proper techniques as some shared above, of course), you can tell if it is an alternative oil finish you can use for future projects. Start with a smaller project as the learning curve is slightly different: no sanding between coats is needed for one thing. The product is more expensive, but you use less for each application. Thin is the key -- I use a clean cotton rag. Yes, I wipe off the excess, if any. Long curing time, so be patient. Don't use it if you need something to be done over a weekend or so.

So far, I don't see much difference between it and other finishes I have used: wipe-on poly, arm-r-seal, varnish tung oil, and BLO. May be 4 or 5 years later, the report may be different. Images: Coffee table coated with wipe-on (5 coats?), dining table with Osmo (3 or 4?).

What were/are your thoughts on arm-R-seal? It’s another a guy at Woodcraft really liked?

  I'm a guy at Woodcraft and I used to love Arm-R-Seal. The difference is that Arm-R-Seal, while very easy to apply well, creates a film coat of oil based urethane. As such, should you have damage, you will have to remove the entire coat as spot repair is difficult. Further, it's not really very durable either. And, as a film finish, it does not allow the wood to "breath". I am currently experimenting with Osmo and so far I like the results. I am considering trying to adapt the Festool Surfix system to use with various Osmo products. Since both are hard wax finishes, differing in oils used and waxes used, I am interested in seeing how the process works with Osmo. Essentially the process is to sand raw wood to 180, apply the first coat of finish, let it soak in for fifteen minutes and then use a ROS (for me an ETS EC 150/5) with the green vlies pad to buff the finish in. Then, use an absorbent cloth to wipe off excess finish. After a cure time of eight hours (or more for some conditions), sand with Granat 220 followed by another thin coat of finish....let it absorb for fifteen minutes and buff it with the white vlies (non-woven abrasive equivalent to 0000 steel wool without the metal bits) and wipe off the excess. The actual Surfix oil I like OK but it's a bit too matte for my tastes. I hope to try Polyx Satin using the same process soon. As always, YMMV. 
 
jcrowe1950 said:
I am considering trying to adapt the Festool Surfix system to use with various Osmo products. Since both are hard wax finishes, differing in oils used and waxes used, I am interested in seeing how the process works with Osmo. Essentially the process is to sand raw wood to 180, apply the first coat of finish, let it soak in for fifteen minutes and then use a ROS (for me an ETS EC 150/5) with the green vlies pad to buff the finish in. Then, use an absorbent cloth to wipe off excess finish. After a cure time of eight hours (or more for some conditions), sand with Granat 220 followed by another thin coat of finish....let it absorb for fifteen minutes and buff it with the white vlies (non-woven abrasive equivalent to 0000 steel wool without the metal bits) and wipe off the excess. The actual Surfix oil I like OK but it's a bit too matte for my tastes. I hope to try Polyx Satin using the same process soon. As always, YMMV.

  OK, tried the Surfix method with Polyx and it is suboptimal. The first coat went on fine, followed by the buffing with the green vlies and wipeoff of excess was fine. Following up with a second thin coat of Polyx and waiting fifteen minutes for absorption was an issue.....the white vlies pad started to self destruct and the finish was just being swirled around. So, if anybody else is considering this experiment, just follow the Osmo directions. I suspect this relates to what kind of oils and waxes are used in the Polyx vs. Festool's Surfix. I know that Surfix uses linseed oil and Osmo some various mixtures. To the folks who have given informed advice previously, thanks for the tips. [scared]
 
Sorry to hear that.

I followed the Osmo instructions on the can to the dot, and did not use any pads that some YouTubers suggested (some money saved [wink]). I bought mine from a furniture store whose owners (husband and wife) insisted that thin coats are critical for success and that I refer to the can. If the finish felt sticky, it was wrong they said. In their showroom, all tables are finished with Osmo by them or their workers. 
 
Sorry to hijack the threat, but at least it is relevant.  [wink]

I ran out of my big box of 3M Scotch-Brite 07745 pads (the non-abrasive white pads) that I took with me from the States some time ago. It seems you can't get those in the EU. Any EU members here that can point me to a good equivalent they use?
 
ChuckM said:
Sorry to hear that.

I followed the Osmo instructions on the can to the dot, and did not use any pads that some YouTubers suggested (some money saved [wink]). I bought mine from a furniture store whose owners (husband and wife) insisted that thin coats are critical for success and that I refer to the can. If the finish felt sticky, it was wrong they said. In their showroom, all tables are finished with Osmo by them or their workers.
My experience is was when I used cotton rags with Osmo I sometimes got that sticky finish. I was advised that the cotton absorbs part of the blend so the finish doesn’t penetrate properly. Since then I’ve used scotch brite or microfibre and get a great finish every time. So would recommend not using natural fibre materials to apply Osmo.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not sure what cotton you used; I use this:https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/project-materials/49422-absorbent-cotton-wipes

As those owners (one of the Osmo dealers in my city) said, thin coats and zero issues -- at least for me AND for them. The first image shows one of the tables (spruce) they carried. They use cotton rags (not necessarily the same as mine as there're many sources for rags) not pads in their finishing room. The second image shows the finish (first coat?) applied with a cotton wipe in thin coats on a dining table I did.

Can't comment on the pads as I've never used them with Osmo.
 

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I used old torn up bedsheets and t-shirts. I have got much better results with the scotch pads.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yeah, I might try cotton rags again if I can't find new pads for this. There's some trepidation there, as I am afraid it will leave small pieces of lint in the finish. I had that before, but maybe that was due to an inferior quality of the rags? You're really putting in some effort to make sure the Osmo is applied thin and even. So my thinking was that it would be almost inevitable to get lint in the finish due to wear. That's why I started to use white pads.

Small anecdote: some time ago I had to finish a small workpiece and thought to use a cloth made from an old pair of jeans. They must have been washed at least 50 times over the years. I thought there would be no risk of colour leaking into the finish. How wrong I was!  [eek] Luckily the discolouration is very even (but still very noticeable).  [embarassed]
 
Thank you everyone for your thoughts !

From a newbie standpoint it sounds like I better pass on it at this point. I like the Odies but I’m wanting more sheen and it sounds like many have had mixed results on the process and finish.

Being new and having tendencies to overthink maybe it’s just the nature of wood/woodworking? I was a machinist by trade and worked for a large Corp and I know a lot of times the devil is in the details. I’m enjoying the process.

Time to get my day started, currently working on the Walnut face frame for my SYS-AZ storage.
 
hdv said:
Yeah, I might try cotton rags again if I can't find new pads for this. There's some trepidation there, as I am afraid it will leave small pieces of lint in the finish. I had that before, but maybe that was due to an inferior quality of the rags? You're really putting in some effort to make sure the Osmo is applied thin and even. So my thinking was that it would be almost inevitable to get lint in the finish due to wear. That's why I started to use white pads.

Small anecdote: some time ago I had to finish a small workpiece and thought to use a cloth made from an old pair of jeans. They must have been washed at least 50 times over the years. I thought there would be no risk of colour leaking into the finish. How wrong I was!  [eek] Luckily the discolouration is very even (but still very noticeable).  [embarassed]

The kind of finish and application techniques certainly matter. French polishing is always done with a cotton material.

If pads work for you, I see little reasons not to keep using them.
 
That was my reasoning as well (keep using pads). But for that I have to be able to stock up on them. And there is the problem: I can't seem to find good quality white (non-abrasive) pads locally or online from sellers that will deliver at my location at reasonable prices (I found one, but the shipping was more than the box of pads itself. And significantly so.) Probably because I only ever bought the 3M Scotch-Brite ones and those are no longer sold around here. Hence my reaching out to the FOG with a request for an alternative product.
 
Neither have I. But my wife used to work in a hospital and knew right away what you were talking about. I am definitely going to try this!

Thanks for the pointer!  [thumbs up]
 
I doubt it would be possible to "resaw" the pads in half, but you can cut them up into much smaller squares -- a tiny pad still goes a long way.

Some people like to use the slightly abrasive red pad to apply Osmo as well.  I've never tried it, since I'm usually finishing stuff at relatively high grits and don't want to risk marring the surface, but supposedly it works.

ChuckM said:
54K0701, 3M Rubbing Pad, Superfine sold by the foot (Free shipping over $30 in N.A., or  shipping quote reduced ) -https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/sanding/discs-and-pads/20063-3m-rubbing-pads

The white superfine pads look twice as thick as the normal 3M pads. Could they be halved before use?

This is abrasive; wonder if 55K9344, 2500x Mirlon Total Abrasive Pad might work:
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...-pads/111266-mirka-mirlon-total-abrasive-pads
 
ear3 said:
I doubt it would be possible to "resaw" the pads in half, but you can cut them up into much smaller squares -- a tiny pad still goes a long way.

Some people like to use the slightly abrasive red pad to apply Osmo as well.  I've never tried it, since I'm usually finishing stuff at relatively high grits and don't want to risk marring the surface, but supposedly it works.

The red pads work great for the first coat of Osmo.  Especially if you stop sanding around 150.  I always do a 2nd coat w/ the white pad.

I think in general the HW Oils seem to be better suited to finishes where the sanding stops around 150/180.  What I'm curious to see is whether you could do a 100% planed surface and whether the finish would do better, worse, or the same. 

 
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