Through Mortise with 5mm Domino Stock Tenons

glitchkb

Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2017
Messages
4
Hello everyone, In the project that I'm currently building, I have to join a 7/16" side with a 3/4" side in butt joint configuration. I was hoping to utilize the dominos for this joint. The problem is that the smallest cutter I have is the 5mm and the minimum plunge of this cutter will end up creating a through mortise in the 7/16" piece. I thought I'll embrace this limitation and try to get the look described herehttp://www.timbercabinets.com.au/tips-tricks-8/ . In the article custom made dominos are used. I was wondering if the same look can be obtained using the stock 5mm tenons? I'm okay with the rounded look of the stock tenons. If anybody has experience with through tenons using the domino joiner, I'd love to hear it! Any other feedback to avoid through mortising in my situation, is also welcome! Thanks in advance!
 
Can you plunge deeper into the side that permits a deeper mortise and only as far as the wood permits on the 7/16" side? The dominos don't need be split half and half between the two pieces.

My understanding of using through mortises with Dominos is that, since the edges have glue ridges, the result isn't exactly what you intend it to be.
 
Well first off... [welcome] to the FOG.

The first photo is a series of 6 rather large under-bed drawers that were made with 5x30 Sipo Dominos and standard bed box lumber.

The second photo illustrates a smaller set of bed box drawers that were made with 1/2" thick maple and again 5x30 Sipo's.

I've also made several large over the workbench boxes that hold upwards of 30# of stuff that are moved and replaced about once a week to gain access to tools. They are also made using just 5x30 Sipo's and glue.

 

Attachments

  • 3106.JPG
    3106.JPG
    1.1 MB · Views: 686
  • 1351.JPG
    1351.JPG
    1.5 MB · Views: 796
Brice Burrell said:
There is a way to limit the depth of plunge explained in Rick's supplemental manual.
Thank you!! I love the simple setup that limits the plunge! Definitely getting that PVC tube!

grbmds said:
Can you plunge deeper into the side that permits a deeper mortise and only as far as the wood permits on the 7/16" side? The dominos don't need be split half and half between the two pieces.

My understanding of using through mortises with Dominos is that, since the edges have glue ridges, the result isn't exactly what you intend it to be.
Unfortunately the minimum plunge without the pvc guide mentioned above is 12mm(0.472441") which exceeds thickness of the 7/16(0.43") side. You are right that you don't have to split half and half and I was planning to plunge deeper into the other side that does allow deeper plunge (15mm).

Cheese said:
Well first off... [welcome] to the FOG.

The first photo is a series of 6 rather large under-bed drawers that were made with 5x30 Sipo Dominos and standard bed box lumber.

The second photo illustrates a smaller set of bed box drawers that were made with 1/2" thick maple and again 5x30 Sipo's.

I've also made several large over the workbench boxes that hold upwards of 30# of stuff that are moved and replaced about once a week to gain access to tools. They are also made using just 5x30 Sipo's and glue.
Thanks for the welcome! I have been lurking here for a bit and as a general rule in forums, I search before posting a question to avoid repeat topics. So I was able to find answers to most of my questions :) . Beautiful work with the through cuts! Did you have to back up the plunge to avoid tear outs or that wasn't a problem? I did a few test cuts on a board and the beech tenons I have don't necessarily sit flush with the mortise. I will spend more time on it today! Thanks again!
 
If you're willing to buy the 4mm cutter (and 4mm dominos  [big grin]) you can avoid through mortises.  The 4 mm bit is 10mm shorter (if I recall correctly) than the other cutters, thus all settings would be minus 10mm in actual depth.
 
glitchkb said:
Did you have to back up the plunge to avoid tear outs or that wasn't a problem? I did a few test cuts on a board and the beech tenons I have don't necessarily sit flush with the mortise.

Actually, I made a simple fixture that held 2 of the sides in proper position at 90º to each other and then plunged into both pieces. This gave me the back-up I needed and also located the mortises in both sides. I then deepened the mortise in one of the sides by an additional 3-4 mm.

Interestingly enough, this week I will be producing a spice drawer frame using 3/8" thick maple sides and 4x20 mm Dominos. I'm working on the fixture now.
 
hemlock said:
If you're willing to buy the 4mm cutter (and 4mm dominos  [big grin]) you can avoid through mortises.  The 4 mm bit is 10mm shorter (if I recall correctly) than the other cutters, thus all settings would be minus 10mm in actual depth.
I considered it but now I think I'll go with the PVC tube approach as I have way too many 5mm tenons!

Cheese said:
Actually, I made a simple fixture that held 2 of the sides in proper position at 90º to each other and then plunged into both pieces. This gave me the back-up I needed and also located the mortises in both sides. I then deepened the mortise in one of the sides by an additional 3-4 mm.

Interestingly enough, this week I will be producing a spice drawer frame using 3/8" thick maple sides and 4x20 mm Dominos. I'm working on the fixture now.
Cutting through with the sides clamped is not an option as the joints are not on edge. I'll look into making a jig and would use the idea for future projects (I think it looks pretty cool). Thank you and all the best with your project! 
 
If you decide to go all the way through, suggest you clamp a backing board to avoid blow-out.
 
[member=44099]Cheese[/member] Thanks for sharing.
Great idea with those drawers. Would you mind sharing the size details and where you found the wheels ?
 
mwildt said:
[member=44099]Cheese[/member] Thanks for sharing.
Great idea with those drawers. Would you mind sharing the size details and where you found the wheels ?

Hey [member=3693]mwildt[/member], the larger under-bed drawers are around 28" wide and 20" deep. They are arranged side by side and extend 3 drawers deep. All drawers are connected to each other with magnets. That allows the entire area under a king sized bed to be used for rolling storage. The drawer material used was just common pre-cut drawer stock from Woodcraft. I was more interested in function than in them being pretty.

The bed-box wheels came from Rockler. I'm sure there are other options out there. Maybe Hafele? Just Google bed box wheels.

I simply matched the wood and finishes of the original bedroom set so that everything would blend in.

 

Attachments

  • 3107.JPG
    3107.JPG
    1.7 MB · Views: 363
  • 3108.JPG
    3108.JPG
    1.6 MB · Views: 314
  • 3111.JPG
    3111.JPG
    1.6 MB · Views: 305
Very nice looking bed and night stands.  From the looks of the bed boxes I guess you also built the bed and night stands?  Nice work.
 
magellan said:
From the looks of the bed boxes I guess you also built the bed and night stands?  Nice work.

Unfortunately no...the bed and nightstands were manufactured in Canada by a Canadian firm. We just purchased the bedroom ensemble because we liked the lines of the furniture. The nightstands have built-in lighting and that's what really sold us.

After the ensemble was installed, I realized there was a lot of real estate under the bed that could be harvested so that's when I decided to make the under-bed drawers.

The attached photo better highlights the nightstand lighting. You can also see that his photo was taken before the construction of the additional storage.
 

Attachments

  • 2011_05_3613.JPG
    2011_05_3613.JPG
    2 MB · Views: 309
Back
Top