Throw away those Festool saw Blades......TENYRU BLADES ROCK!!!!

[sicd_steve]

Hi,

Guys I have a whole bunch of Festool saws TS55,TS75,CS70 and the Kapex 120 and for each saw I have the 4 available Festool Blades so that way I can use any saw to cutting anything. And it has cost me a mountain of cash to do, but I discovered the TENYRU blades for Festool.....man what a difference in working with them.

First of all I have a double garage made from double brick from which I work out of in the suburbs in a very quiet area. So I respect the neighbours right to quietness, that also is why I bought Festool as it is very quiet equipment in the most.

But I bought some Tenryu blades for my TS55 saw ( can't buy them here in Australia bought them online from Teena at My Toolstore.com Las Vegas they send to Oz ) My first impression was how "dead" the saw blade rang, buy holding it on finger in the hole and flick it it was like a piece of lead!!!! I got my Festool "bell"
saw and ping the ring rang on, infact it rang so long all neighbours turned up for church out the front!!!!....lol just kidding.

My first cut was...awesome cut `and soooooooooo quiet infact I couldn't hear the blade cut over the noise of the motor!!! Now every one knows how it's the ring from the saw blade which makes the wax in your ears loosen. But no not these Tenyru blades for Festool so I bought a bunch of them and my new baby arrived to day for the KAPEX of which Teena got in special for me.

Its the TENYRU MITRE SAW PRO 80 tooth x 30mm hole x 260mm diam... the code is TEN-MP26080AB and cost me $136 USD plus postage.

IT IS FREAKING AWESOME!!!! the cut was so quiet I was amazed I can cut all night and no neighbour would ever hear it...but the cut!!!! The cut was so damn good there was not one ounce of tear out and the cut is polished ( infact to sand it would ruin it), now this cut I did in pine as pine does have a tendancy to tear the cross grain and leave small tear holes that needs sanding and I was using a Top of the range 80 tooth FLAI blade from Italy ( even though it is 254mm it still cuts fine as I use a sacrificial fence. I used to think it cut well but the TENYRU blade is just the bee's knees.

So guys if you want a layman's opinion on an awesome blade range TENYRU for Festool is the go...and lucky you lot living in the States the blade cost me $70 freight to Oz...Owwww but it still worth it by far.

 

[WoodWhisperer]

Good to hear!!  Sorry it cost you so much to ship!!!  I have been wondering if there was any good blades beside Festool.  I love my new Kapex but the blade does have some tear out.

Thanks for the review.

Sean

 

[GhostFist]

Ya tenrum makes a whole line for the Kapex and ts saws Atlas in Toronto just started carrying them as well and they're slightly cheaper than the Festool blades here.

 

[BUTTER]

The  Tenryu might be a very fine blade for the TS55 and cutting sheetgoods.
I bought one for my TS75, and experienced severe blade deflection when cutting 2" thick shelves.  I went back to a (somewhat duller) Festool blade and the problem went away.  I cannot say that I would recommend them.

 

[Kev]

I'll be interested to hear how these blades treat you over time.

I admit to being blown away by new blades on a number of occasions, but my experience isn't such that I could offer particularly valid appraisals - I think blade testing and comparisons needs some serious rigour to be reliable.

(not saying your results aren't real Steve ... I've been intrigued by Tenyru blades as a result of some of the discussions I've read)

 

[sicd_steve]

The  Tenryu might be a very fine blade for the TS55 and cutting sheetgoods.
I bought one for my TS75, and experienced severe blade deflection when cutting 2" thick shelves.  I went back to a (somewhat duller) Festool blade and the problem went away.  I cannot say that I would recommend them.

Hey joe. Did you send it back. You should have perhaps you were unlucky and got a defective one, mine are all fine and happy as described don't forget I have a full range of Festool blades for each saw to compare and so far all good

 

[sicd_steve]

I'll be interested to hear how these blades treat you over time.

I admit to being blown away by new blades on a number of occasions, but my experience isn't such that I could offer particularly valid appraisals - I think blade testing and comparisons needs some serious rigour to be reliable.

(not saying your results aren't real Steve ... I've been intrigued by Tenyru blades as a result of some of the discussions I've read)

Mate only time will tell but the fact that they are silent I love them them even more, but hey if they start to drop off sharpness  ill get them sharpened. I am in the fortunate position of being a designer so I am only making one offs periodically most of the time I am designing which affords me the money to spend on my hobby. So at the moment I love this blade I have had FLAI -FRUED blades  all of which are quality and these  TENYRU are very good

 

[bkharman]

Is the kerf the same on the 55?  Amazon US seems to have a decent price on them.

 

[Paul G]

I'll try one in my miter saw when it's time to replace, I really like the idea of a quieter blade. Also would like to know the longevity but as you said only time will tell in my applications.

 

[rljatl]

If you don't mind me piggybacking on your thread, this brings up a question that you guys may be able to help me with.

Need to rip some 8/4 hard maple for a moxon vise I am putting together.  I have the TS 75.  The Festool Panther blade is what I would buy for this, but the kerf is different than my fine blade and all purpose blade.  The Tenryu rip blade has the same kerf as my other Festool bades, so thought I would buy the Tenyru instead.

However, will the Tenyru blade deflect too much in the 8/4 hard maple?

 

[Svar]

Is the kerf the same on the 55?  Amazon US seems to have a decent price on them.

http://www.tenryu.com/ps.html
Kerf itself is not important. Instead compare the offset (kerf-plate)/2 of your current blade with the new one.

Shims are commonly used to adapt different kerf blades. However, 20 and 30 mm arbor shims might not be readily available in the US and Festool would probably not approve their use. Anyway they are not hard to adapt from imperial diameters or make from precision shim stock.

 

[gkaiseril]

Kerf is important if one does not want to cut the splinter guard due to changing blades. Outside of the shop, shims could easily be lost.

Most Festool blades are all the same thickness and have the tooth setting so changing blades is just a pop-off and pop-on with no worries about cutting the splinter guard.

If the splinter guard is not important to you or you do not use the edge of it as a guide, then there is no problem.

 

[bkharman]

Kerf is important if one does not want to cut the splinter guard due to changing blades. Outside of the shop, shims could easily be lost.

Most Festool blades are all the same thickness and have the tooth setting so changing blades is just a pop-off and pop-on with no worries about cutting the splinter guard.

If the splinter guard is not important to you or you do not use the edge of it as a guide, then there is no problem.

This is why i asked. I don't want to have to adjust my splinter guard or strip.

Cheers

 

[johntheoak]

Do not buy non Festool accessories such as blades, sandpaper or other consumables. Festool makes great tools. Yes they are costly, but they have lasted years for me. This actually lowers my overall cost due to the long life of the tools. If users do not buy Festool products the company may lose profits. This may lead to higher cost of the tool or an inferior machine. Look what has happened to most of the great American tool manufacturers such as Delta, Powermatic and Milwaukee just to name a few. Keep Festool in business, Keep buying Festool.

 

[Kev]

Do not buy non Festool accessories such as blades, sandpaper or other consumables. Festool makes great tools. Yes they are costly, but they have lasted years for me. This actually lowers my overall cost due to the long life of the tools. If users do not buy Festool products the company may lose profits. This may lead to higher cost of the tool or an inferior machine. Look what has happened to most of the great American tool manufacturers such as Delta, Powermatic and Milwaukee just to name a few. Keep Festool in business, Keep buying Festool.

I would hope that Festool would respond to a potential drop off in saw blade sales with serious R&D resulting in a superior new product!

I am a fan of Festool, but not to the point of potentially buying inferior products out of loyalty.

I'd bet there's a couple Germans in lab coats right now asking each other ... "Was macht diese Tenyru Klingen so besonders?"

 

[GhostFist]

Festool is doing fine, its nice to have options

 

[Mdjagg]

I am currently using the tenryu blade for the Kapex, the miter pro 80 tooth($140ish).  This is an amazing blade, cuts clean, extremely clean, but with it, the dust extraction suffers.  It's hard to say how much but I am noticing dust around the saw which I didn't see with the standard original 60 tooth.  I hate comparing an 80 to a 60. As much as I'm in love with the ease of cut and the clean edges I will be buying the festool 80t next time just to see if the dust is controlled like the 60t. After that, if I'm not satisfied, I will try the tenryu 72 for kapex. 

I wish had them all to try side by side.

 

[Svar]

Kerf is important if one does not want to cut the splinter guard due to changing blades. Outside of the shop, shims could easily be lost.

Most Festool blades are all the same thickness and have the tooth setting so changing blades is just a pop-off and pop-on with no worries about cutting the splinter guard.

If the splinter guard is not important to you or you do not use the edge of it as a guide, then there is no problem.

No, it's not. That's why I mentioned the offset. You can have a wider kerf, but if the blade plate is thicker by the same amount you won't cut into the splinter guard.

 

[Kev]

Kerf is important if one does not want to cut the splinter guard due to changing blades. Outside of the shop, shims could easily be lost.

Most Festool blades are all the same thickness and have the tooth setting so changing blades is just a pop-off and pop-on with no worries about cutting the splinter guard.

If the splinter guard is not important to you or you do not use the edge of it as a guide, then there is no problem.

No, it's not. That's why I mentioned the offset. You can have a wider kerf, but if the blade plate is thicker by the same amount you won't cut into the splinter guard.

Exactly right with a track saw ... but it can be a minor consideration with a table or mitre saw (as either side may be the "off cut").

 

[Rickfisher]

I have several Tenryu blades, they are IMO some of the finest blades made.