Time to make a pivot door.
- Thread starter tjbnwi
- Start date
luvmytoolz
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Pretty beefy setup! Load rating must be good.
Crazyraceguy
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Wow, that's big time.
tjbnwi
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This pivot bookcase is replacing one that the hardware failed in less than a month.
This is the way I originally designed the pivots 4 years ago. When I stress tested the first design in Fusion I tested it to 9000 lbs point load at the farthest upper end from the pivot. The hardware will hold up long are the wood fails.
The first set I fabricated.
The magnetic lock. I believe it was rated for 3000 pounds of pull.
The original hardware that failed.
Tom
This is the way I originally designed the pivots 4 years ago. When I stress tested the first design in Fusion I tested it to 9000 lbs point load at the farthest upper end from the pivot. The hardware will hold up long are the wood fails.
The first set I fabricated.
The magnetic lock. I believe it was rated for 3000 pounds of pull.
The original hardware that failed.
Tom
Steve1
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Crazyraceguy
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- Oct 16, 2015
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I can certainly understand the need for super duty pivots on those. Not only are the really deep but potentially loaded with even more weight. Great looking job Tom.
The last time I use center-pivot bearings was about a year and a half ago. They were just 3" thick flat doors, used as a partition, dividing a room in two, wall to wall. They were nowhere near that heavy, but the doors were a lot lighter too.
The last time I use center-pivot bearings was about a year and a half ago. They were just 3" thick flat doors, used as a partition, dividing a room in two, wall to wall. They were nowhere near that heavy, but the doors were a lot lighter too.
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tjbnwi
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There are smaller pillow blocks, I like using the 1” ID units because of their height and bolt pattern. The plate size sets the centerline where I need it when I set edge to edge.
The top axle plate is cut in that shape so it stays behind the upper trim. on this one. On this one, I do not have a “top rail” that will travel with the door.
I use 1-1/2” 4140 for the axels, it’s what I have laying around. The small end is turned down to 0.998 by 1” tall, to slip fit into bearing bore.
One other thing that I do, not sure it is necessary, I turn a brass support ring for the bearing. On pillow blocks the bearing are pressed in deeper the mounting surface of the flange. These blanks are fun to hold properly in the lathe, some day I;’ll get backers for the chuck. They’re a light press fit into the block.
Tom
The top axle plate is cut in that shape so it stays behind the upper trim. on this one. On this one, I do not have a “top rail” that will travel with the door.
I use 1-1/2” 4140 for the axels, it’s what I have laying around. The small end is turned down to 0.998 by 1” tall, to slip fit into bearing bore.
One other thing that I do, not sure it is necessary, I turn a brass support ring for the bearing. On pillow blocks the bearing are pressed in deeper the mounting surface of the flange. These blanks are fun to hold properly in the lathe, some day I;’ll get backers for the chuck. They’re a light press fit into the block.
Tom
