Tips for track saw/Mft for cuts on boards narrower than track

[sofa_king_rad]

I'm new to woodworking and new to festool. I picked up the MFT3 table and a TS 55. I'm working on making some 3"x3" post to use for a kids bed. With the width being so narrow especially compared to the width of the track, I'm struggling.

I'm sure there is a simple technique, trick or jig to help. The post is too long for the flip down track of the Mft, but fine for the track 55 that came with the saw. I sort of rigged something up and got a cut done, but feel like there must be a better way.

Any tips? I have pard dogs, some quick clamps the black clamps that fit in like the part dogs.

 

[bobfog]

I just place about three or four off-cuts of the same thickness material periodically along the left-hand underside of the track to support it.

 

[sancho57]

Most of us have a couple of different length rails that we can connect together to be able to rip various length wood.

Im sure there is a way to do that cut without a rail , safely, but I for one am not sure how.

 

[ear3]

The same thickness offcut method should work just fine.  If you're worried about securing the track there are two options.  First is to add the FS rapid clamps:http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/review-of-festool-fs-rapid-clamp-and-fixed-jaws-(product-no-489790)/

The second method is optimally done by leaving the workpiece a bit longer than the final length, then either shooting a pneumatic nail into either end to secure it to the surface, or, if you don't have a nailer, screwing it to the surface.  If you go the screw route make sure to pilot hole and countersink before driving the screw to prevent the board from splitting (since the screw will be near the edge of the board), and you might want to secure it to a piece of plywood rather than the MFT top.

Just curious, are you cutting boards for the post pre or post lamination?  If they're already laminated, how are you dealing with the depth issue, since the TS55 capacity is slightly under 2"?  If pre, how are you going to deal with flushing the laminated boards?  Even when one is super careful, there is usually a small ridge /misalignment between the laminated boards.  Electric planer/thicknesser is optimal for getting these flush.  A good, long hand plane would also work as well.  They can also be sanded flush if the misalignment is minor, but this risks creating a convex surface if you're not careful.

EDIT: Here's a good thread on ripping narrow stock which may be useful.  There's a more involved jig that was devised (and animated!) by FOG member [member=182]Corwin[/member] It's referred to in the thread, but I can't seem to locate the exact URL.  Maybe somebody else could post it if they remember it?
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festo...is-ripping-narrow-stock-the-ts-achilles-heel/

 

[Holmz]

Clamp the rail to the part.
If there is unsupported rail, whack a price of wood under the free side of the rail.

This is why people use tablesaws, as track saws do better for sheet goods.

You only need to get it close, then "get it pretty" with a hand plane.

 

[sofa_king_rad]

Well crap. Wasn't really thinking for a minute and I can't do a 3x3 posts with laminated boards and only depend on my track saw.

I have a Kapex for chopping Bits down but no way to square up the edges after done besides doing it by hand. Which I don't have tools for and have never done.

I have a table saw but it's a small old cheap POS.  Hmmmmm

 

[tjbnwi]

Rail of the MFT. Be careful with your set up. Do not move the rail until you're done. You can cut almost 4" deep if you rotate the piece

Tom

 

[Holmz]

Once it is gnawed into shape just run a hand plane over it to make it smooth.
(IMO) Either use the table saw or sell it.

 

[ear3]

Time tro spend some more money on a Portable planer/thicknesser!!!!! ;D

Well crap. Wasn't really thinking for a minute and I can't do a 3x3 posts with laminated boards and only depend on my track saw.

I have a Kapex for chopping Bits down but no way to square up the edges after done besides doing it by hand. Which I don't have tools for and have never done.

I have a table saw but it's a small old cheap POS.  Hmmmmm

 

[Holmz]

Time to spend some more money on a Portable planer/thicknesser!!!!! ;D

I use a cordless model:http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/primussmoothplane.aspx

[big grin]

 

[RWTucker]

Hello!  This is my first post (joined the FOG 13 months ago).  This subject made me remember something I briefly saw in a video by The Poplar Shop / ERock.  If you look at and go to the 2:23 mark you will notice he has created a jig to place the board against and then he places the track over it.  He also included a stop at the end to prevent the offcut from taking flight.  Maybe Eric would provide more detail.
I would also like to say Thank you! to the entire FOG - an amazing collection of knowledge and expertise - I have learned so much from you in the last year.

 

[peter halle]

[welcome] [welcome] [welcome] to the FOG!

 

[Holmz]

...

I have a table saw but it's a small old cheap POS.  Hmmmmm

[member=60853]sofa_king_rad[/member] what defines POC/POS?
All table saws basically spin the blade , and if the blade is good then there starts a pleasant saw.
The fence can be dire... Therein can end a good experience.
Incremental has a sale this weekend... I just ordered a fence (in metrics) myself.

 

[Mismarked]

Rail of the MFT. Be careful with your set up. Do not move the rail until you're done. You can cut almost 4" deep if you rotate the piece

Tom

Thank you, Tom.  That is exactly what I have been needing to do for a project.

 

[JayDeeWh1t3]

I have a similar(?) conundrum. It seems I get myself, frequently, into contriving parts that are more narrow than the track.  In the current circumstance drawer fronts for the kitchen cabinets.  Going a step further, many are actually the fronts of sliding shelves - so even more "shallow".  I am going to be splitting numerous 6" widths.  If it wasn't that they're generally 14"-20" long there might be some involvement with the Kapex.  Alas, that is only for trimming lengths to size, (which, of course, it does exceptionally.)

The 6" width obviously allows NOTHING in the way of clamping options - that I have deduced.  Although... just reading through here now and pondering... I am going to try to fabricate something of an "L" shape that has sufficient depth to "register" the material on at least two sides and the "L" jig WILL be able to be clamped.  At least something of an improvement over applying pressure to the track only with the TS-75 and the other hand.

This, as I alluded, is a circumstance that has plagued me since I bought into the system almost five years ago.  Subsequently, the parallel guides held out some promise, but that is a LOT of set-up for the cuts.  At least, it feels like it.  And, no, I don't have even a POS table saw.  I specifically didn't want even a collapsible product for fear of instability.  I bought into this system because I didn't, (and don't to date,) have a dedicated/permanent work area.  Repeatedly however - and this scenario is more frequent than I could have imagined - I have to look at the ease at which a table saw WOULD handle this. 

Other than the experimental jig I will create, I was hoping someone in the brain trust would have a F E S suggestion.