To Seal or Not To Seal MFT/3?

blackemmons

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2010
Messages
35
Just got  a new MFT/3 and want to get advise on to seal the top or not?  If so, with what?

Also, is a sacrificial top a good idea when cutting?

JimE
 
I never sealed mine. I cut the initial rail cut, that's the only one. I use sacrificial top for all other cuts. I do clamping and assembly on my MFT, I don't like all the kerfs the catch on my parts.

Tom
 
I hit both of my MFTs with a quick coat of shellac, which dried in minutes.  I also use a sacrificial piece of MDF to prevent kerfs in the MFT...just personal preference.
 
I don't seal it and I don't use a sacrificial top. I reckon it will last me at least 8 years even with all the cuts in it. I don't use it for a finishing table though.
 
I've done booth with mine over the years. The ones I've sealed stays nicer for longer. I use mine as a general working table (not only for cutting). This means that I'll sometimes spill some fluid on it or have some glue dripping on it. This is easily wiped off of the oiled surface, but the non-sealed MFT sucks in everything that comes near (a brown ring from a coffee cup for example =).

Booth sealed and non-sealed MFT will do it's work. IMO it's a matter of aesthetics.

I have used hard (extra dense) MDF for many of my surfaces in the shop (home made MFT, SCMS-station, bandsaw extension table, drill press table). The surface prep I've found fits my needs best are the following:
1. Sand to 400 grit
2. Oil with furniture oil (the same I use for benches and oak table in the house)
3. Buff (kind of) in the the oil with a 600 grit pad on the Rotex.
4. Oil again and maybe again.

It's absolutely not necessary to sand all the way to 400. But I like the semi-shiny surface I get from buffing (I don't know if this is called buffing though). If I don't go to 400 this will show. On the other hand you will soon get scratches way bigger than your sanding effort. It's just nice to have a nice surface for a couple of days, I recon =)

At first I used hard wax oil. But I didn't like the plastic-like surface this left on the MDF.

//Michael
 
I oiled mine to possible help slow any swelling of the MDF top from humidity or the accidental spill/water contact.
I bought my MFT800 used ,and the top had never been cut on, but HAD been subject to every liquid that the previous owner could...throw at it... [big grin] [eek]  so, I might be a bit more sensitive about swollen, damaged MDF than the average owner. [wink]
  I bought a new top to work with the later spec hole size of the tops and all the new dog accessories out there. Sealing it with oil was fast and easy.
 
When ya'll say "oiled"  Is this linseed? Danish Oil?
I did see Shellac mentioned.

Thanks [smile]
 
I've had my current MTF top about four or five years. When I got it I sealed the top surface only with an acrylic MDF moisture barrier. I noticed the top now sags about 1/8" in the centre. I can't remember the previous top sagging, or this one sagging in the early days.

I wonder if the sagging is due to me only sealing one surface?

How much sag, if any, do you guys see in your MTF tops?
 
Sealing isn't necessary at all. On the other hand, it won't hurt either. So do it to your personal preference.

@Custard, sealing only one side is always a bad idea. The wood will still take in and release moisture, but now forcefully from only one side. This will make it warp over time. But untreated MFT tops can still sag, as any horizontal piece of wood can.  
 
I have oiled and waxed all 3 of my MFT's. Only one side on each.  The 1080 is about 15 years old and it has not warped either up or down.  The 1080 I never used sacrificial surface and is full of kerfs. I no longer use it for assembly (glue ups) unless i cover with wax paper or use a sac surface.  The other two (600 and /3) have both been coated on one side and i use sac surface whenever cutting.  those have had glue drips and the glue peels right off.  i still use wax paper wherever exposed to glue drips. i don't worry about varnish or other finish liguids dripping. 
Tinker

 
Sparktrician said:
I use Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax to protect my MFT tops.  It makes cleanup a bunch of easier when I forget to lay wax paper before doing a glue-up.  It's not totally waterproof, but it does help and does need periodic reapplication. 

"Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner !!!!"
Thanks!
I now know the name of a product to use.  Elst I may have used motor oil, canola oil, bacon grease, 3-in-one, or spent a bunch'O money on camilla oil.  [smile] [smile]
 
I ordered the Bowling Ally wax on Amazon.
"Trewax" looked interesting.

Do you use this on your wood projects too?
 
A personal choice. If left unsealed the top could easily stain or develop a build up of glue.

Peter Parfitt in his post Finish for MDF suggest using Osmo Oil. It repels water, oils, paints and glues. It does not noticeably affect the size of the top.

I am sure the other mentioned products work just as well.
 
Here's what I see on my MFT top

[attachimg=#]

With a 600mm/24" straight edge across the table there's 1.4mm gap in the middle, let's say that's equal to a 1/16" sag across the full width of the table.

How does that compare to your MFT tables?
 

Attachments

  • MFT Sag.jpg
    MFT Sag.jpg
    143.1 KB · Views: 911
Custard said:
Here's what I see on my MFT top

[attachimg=#]

With a 600mm/24" straight edge across the table there's 1.4mm gap in the middle, let's say that's equal to a 1/16" sag across the full width of the table.

How does that compare to your MFT tables?

Damn !
Sorry about that.

Mine's new and I don't want it to look like yours.
The good news is $135 for a new top isn't too bad.
 
Back
Top