Toe Kicks
- Thread starter jwkilgore
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- Jul 8, 2007
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- 13,127
Is it fair to assume that your question relates to end panels of cabinets that have the toe kicks notched out of them?
Peter
Peter
chrisrosenb
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- Joined
- Sep 1, 2007
- Messages
- 1,265
I still notch cabinet sides for toe kicks. I notch them after the cabinet is assembled & use a jig saw to cut the notch.
Stunt
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- Joined
- Jan 6, 2016
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- 22
If you're talking cabinets, fixed in place, it depends. For recessed for kicks/cabinet base I like to build mine separately.
Ease of install as I can level the entire base, front and back before cabinets go on them. I hate the need for companies with CNC machines making the sides/gables of the cabinets going to the floor. Makes it hard to level the back of a cabinet properly.
I also prefer a recess for the toe kick matching the open sides to the front.
That and those gables to the floor need a finished panel to the floor on the end. With a recessed front toe kick it makes a 90 degree dust catching corner you can't sweep out. Dumb.
Separate base means I can also put this in before flooring, flooring can go in and the flooring installer won't damage my cabinets. (Here in Alberta there seems to have been an influx of crap workers since the boom. I soooo love cleaning tools grout and mastic of my cabinets. Doesn't make me upset at all.)
After flooring is in I can cover the bases with the toe kick plate, be it ¼" ply with matching veneer and stain, some ply with laminate (think white Kitchens), or solid wood (if the customer wishes)
I just over size them by half inch in height before ripping to size, maybe an ⅛ inch under in height, cut to length, then scribe to the finished floor. The outside corners get corner trim to cover edges or a mitre cut joint (customers choice)
I might silicone to the floor in bathrooms, laundry or mudroom/entry's (water areas)
I've tried the plastic legs but I'm too set in my ways. Didn't find any plus to them. They seemed to break or rip out (their short screws into cabinet bottom) when shifting the cabinet while placing. Granted they probably weren't the best quality legs I'm sure. When I can use my own scrap material or good ply for a base why use plastic legs. That abs attaching the toe kick plate was odd with the clips they use.
Ease of install as I can level the entire base, front and back before cabinets go on them. I hate the need for companies with CNC machines making the sides/gables of the cabinets going to the floor. Makes it hard to level the back of a cabinet properly.
I also prefer a recess for the toe kick matching the open sides to the front.
That and those gables to the floor need a finished panel to the floor on the end. With a recessed front toe kick it makes a 90 degree dust catching corner you can't sweep out. Dumb.
Separate base means I can also put this in before flooring, flooring can go in and the flooring installer won't damage my cabinets. (Here in Alberta there seems to have been an influx of crap workers since the boom. I soooo love cleaning tools grout and mastic of my cabinets. Doesn't make me upset at all.)
After flooring is in I can cover the bases with the toe kick plate, be it ¼" ply with matching veneer and stain, some ply with laminate (think white Kitchens), or solid wood (if the customer wishes)
I just over size them by half inch in height before ripping to size, maybe an ⅛ inch under in height, cut to length, then scribe to the finished floor. The outside corners get corner trim to cover edges or a mitre cut joint (customers choice)
I might silicone to the floor in bathrooms, laundry or mudroom/entry's (water areas)
I've tried the plastic legs but I'm too set in my ways. Didn't find any plus to them. They seemed to break or rip out (their short screws into cabinet bottom) when shifting the cabinet while placing. Granted they probably weren't the best quality legs I'm sure. When I can use my own scrap material or good ply for a base why use plastic legs. That abs attaching the toe kick plate was odd with the clips they use.
