Tormek T8

[simonh]

Just a heads up that Tormek are running a live sharpening class on 2nd April starting with knifes sharpening:


-Simon

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.
So how sharp is sharp enough? And is it true that sharper the edge the quicker it dulls? So apparently there is an optimal point.

When I want a longer lasting edge, I hone the edge to 30*; so I have one set of chisels at 25* for paring and one at 30* for chopping. The angles are ballpark as I sharpen them freehand, and they have a micro-bevel, too.

Plane blade angles are set for their functions: higher angles (for bevel up planes) for dealing with wild grains, and at 25* for end grain work.

You're right that super sharp edges mean little if they don't hold. I am never bothered by a less sharp chisel in chopping tasks, but in planing or paring, a sharp edge makes quite a difference.

 

[grbmds]

@ grbmds i thought you have to add an additive when using the diamond wheels as well.. so there is maintenance cost right?

With the newer jig that lets you sharpen on the side of the stone (diamond stone) looks like there is a quick way to get chisels and plane blades flat sharp (without hollow grind).

So how sharp is sharp enough? And is it true that sharper the edge the quicker it dulls? So apparently there is an optimal point. So question is how easily and quickly can we get to that point? And would tormek help? For argument if we assume the cost of all manual sharpening gadgets and tormek is theoretically close is there a significant difference in the investment of time to get the job done?

Thank you all and praying everyone stays safe in these times.

[member=53591]Blues[/member]  As already replied, there is an additive which is recommended for use in the water with the Tormek diamond wheels. Otherwise apparently corrosion or rust is possible over time. I think it has something to do with the binder that is used for adherence of the diamonds to the wheels surface.

As for using the jig which allows use of the diamond's side as an additional sharpening surface, I'm still not convinced that the sides of the wheels are completely flat. I finally did buy the jig which allows side sharpening but have only tried it once to flatten the back of a chisel. I found that I can accomplish flattening on the wheel with just my hands holding it flat. Plus, unless you buy the coarse diamond wheel (300 grit), it will take forever to flatten a chisel on a Tormek. It's really almost faster to do it on a coarse diamond stone by hand (depending on how flat the chisel is to begin with).

I do love the diamond wheel because there is truly no wheel dressing required to flatten the wheel's surface. Just get on the Tormek and sharpen. Dressing the wheel was always a reason for me not to sharpen, thus leading to more time between dressing than there should have been and making it a bigger job. I think the diamond wheel, especially the 600 grit, does a fantastic job of maintaining turning tools, and creating a primary bevel on chisels and sharpening knives. So, I'm sold, but, if you're trying to decide what to buy at this point, I'd look into the comparison in price between buying a standard slow speed grinder/diamond and water (or Shapton Glass stones) and the Tormek with whatever jigs and stones you  think you'll need. For me, once I "honed" my skills at hand sharpening, I have found that nothing does any better than hand sharpening with a good jig. The Shapton GlassStones give a great final polished finish as do some other brands of water stones available. In the end, it's not always what you use to sharpen as the fact that you pick a method and stick with it until you get good at it.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I bought an 8” CDN wheel several years ago. My grinder had good trued conventional wheels (although no longer full diameter) and I didn’t want to remove them so I bought a cheap HF grinder to try the CDN wheel.

Even though the crummy grinder needed help to get up to speed the runout was minimal and the results with the CBN wheel were great. So I haven’t bothered buying a better machine.

If you start with a cool wheel you can regrind the bevel on a conventional chisel or plane blade pretty close to the edge (not limited to HSS). Mounted on a wood base a woodworker should be able to make/add whatever kind of sharpening jig is required.

I try to follow the “if it isn’t broken don’t fix it” rule. So I haven’t changed the wheels on my good grinder but I also haven’t used it much since the CBN wheel arrived. Just for light shaping of mild steel. Anything more demanding (shapewise) gets pre-formed with a cutoff wheel.

 

[dragoneggs]

I have the T8 and as mentioned above, I find it great for the variety of tools I sharpen.  Is it the be all, end all?  No...  I like my flat diamond stones for my chisels.  Haven't invested in a diamond wheel yet, but unfortunately I see that in my future.  [smile]

 

[yetihunter]

I had the T8 and sold it when I lost my job and my shop.  It’s awesome and does everything it says it does.  That said, specifically for Lie Nielsen or Veritas bench chisels/planes/spokeshaves all I’d want to use are Shapton Kuromaku waterstones since they’re sold with flat backs and pre-honed. 

 

[grbmds]

I love the diamond wheels on the Tormek. However, when I sharpen chisels or plane blades, I only use the Tormek to get them rough sharpened and/or backs flat. In the end, I now always sharpen with a Lie-Nielsen jig on Shapton Glass Stones. The result is very sharp and better than I've ever sharpened before.

With turning tools, though, the Tormek is a fast and easy way to get gouges and scrapers very sharp; no other work needed. Generally I use the 600 grit diamond stone for sharpening gouges and scrapers unless I want to change the bevel to a different angle.