track saw clogging question

[Crazyraceguy]

I'm definitely not a defender at all cost, as I have criticized several things they have done/continue to do. NAINA being only one of them. I have been very vocal about the 7/16" socket thing, the MFK700 bit size thing, Plug-it on TS60, etc

Ikea, to use the original comparison, it selling to "Joe homeowner" (or more likely apartment dweller) who may not have any tools whatsoever. Totally different thing.
A guy buying Festool stuff has tools, or is at least willing to get what he needs. Tradesmen and high-end hobbyists are in a different place from RTA furniture.

Like pretty much every tool manufacturer, they provide the one to do the most common task. I wouldn't consider changing a saw blade or router bit, to be maintenance. Those are part of the operation of the tool.
You wouldn't expect DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita, etc. to supply a screwdriver to replace the brushes, or the baseplate, but one to swap bits/blades yes.

To me, the offensive part is when they "give" you crappy tools, just to say they supplied it.
The combo-wrench thing that came with my DeWalt scms is a joke. It has the 5/8" socket on one end and the Torx (20?) on the other. Neither is useful. The Torx screw needs many revolutions and a bent (L shaped tool) is not good for that. The other end is difficult too, because the offset of the bend it too long and the leverage end too short. I, similar to you, have dedicated (proper) tools in the drawer right below the saw. I get it, that it is nice to have the tools you need, right with you. I specifically bought screwdriver style Torx drivers for each of my OF1010 Sytainers, but I see that as my issue, not  the manufacturer's responsibility.
All of my "spare" Plug-its are in a drawer, so I could get it back out and send it with a tool, if I did decide to sell something and it would literally look like brand new.

Triton did it too. The ones I have previously owned came with nice, forged collet wrenches, just like Milwaukee does. Then they cheaped-out and went with some junk stamped steel things that absolutely feel horrible in hand. The router is still great, but don't insult me with poor quality "included tools". I bought a regular mechanic's style wrench for the drawer near it, even though I have one of the correct size in the main tool box. Convenience does matter.

 

[ChuckM]

"TLDR:
The saws are *not* meant to be opened this way regularly. Not including a tool is kinda logical then."

Logical. Really?

Umm. I do not believe the KAPEX sliding mittre saw falls under the TS 75 tracksaw moniker.
Snip.

How is this differentiation (I call it hair splitting, if I may) relevant to our discussion? We're having a debate of whether it's a nice thing, which isn't tool-specific, for Festool to include a tool for screws that are not as common as slotted or Robertson/square screws.

For a fact, during my 49 years of driving (owning a total of 7 cars during that time), I've used a tire wrench only ONCE because of a flat tire. I still want a tire changing kit in my car even I may never use it again.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.

Ikea, to use the original comparison, it selling to "Joe homeowner" (or more likely apartment dweller) who may not have any tools whatsoever. Totally different thing.
A guy buying Festool stuff has tools, or is at least willing to get what he needs. Tradesmen and high-end hobbyists are in a different place from RTA furniture.Snip.

Yes, there's always a willingness to get what is needed if a job calls for it. I could even find my own wrench if the DF500 didn't come with a wrench, because I happen to have assorted wrenches in my shop.

Would I say the same thing of all other woodworkers? No.

Folks, there is no need to come up with all kinds of reasons or logic to argue against this assertion: "it's nice if Festool includes a simple T15 Torex bit or tool." A simple "No need for me" is more than sufficient, whether or not you think you're a Festool defender (i.e., whatever that term means).

With apologies to the OP, I'll keep the discussion on his clogging concern.

 

[tjbnwi]

"TLDR:
The saws are *not* meant to be opened this way regularly. Not including a tool is kinda logical then."

Logical. Really?

Then Festool must have done something wrong with the Kapex...because I just found that a key did come with the Kapex. I had used it once when I calibrated the new saw as soon as it arrived 6 or 7 years ago (?) (the angle was slightly off). The key is tucked behind the saw. I had forgotten about it when looking for a Torex bit to remove the brushes.

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In a couple of forums, I came across discussions about how some fans would defend Festool at great length even when things might not sound quite right, and I brushed it off as very uncommon. I'm now having second thoughts about my earlier thinking.

The Kapex key is designed the way it is because you need to loosen the screw that holds the device that prevents the arbor/blade bolt from backing out if it comes loose. I recall this device is only on NA saws.

This covers a common use item.

Tom

 

[ChuckM]

The Kapex key has two different "keys" on the ends, one for the blade and one, the Torex, for the miter scale and others. To adjust the lasers, a different regular Allen key is needed. In one of my previous photos, one can see that a regular Allen key is magnetically attached to the Kapex key.

 

[Cheese]

On the other hand, it would be an added expense and there would be people who complain about that too.
It's kind of like the OF1010. They provide the wrench to change the bit, but no one says anything  about the screwdriver needed to change the guide bushings (or the fact that it takes 2 different ones)
The simple reducing plate uses flat-head screws, because centering is not an issue, but the guide bushings (copy rings) have a very slim cheese-head style screw, which takes a T-15.

I solved the OF 1010 fastener dilemma by purchasing a stubby screwdriver with on-board tip storage. It's now a permanent member of the OF 1010 Systainer.

Whenever I purchase something (a Wixey digital accessory for example) that comes with cheap tools for assembly, I just toss the cheap tools because I don't want them mixed in with the quality ones I've purchased. I've learned over the years that the cheap items will eventually round over and they usually take the fastener drive with them. That then becomes a larger problem to remove the damaged fastener.

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[kmickey]

It’s never bad to have a reasonable set of bits other than flat and Phillips in your arsenal.

The most cost effective way to achieve this is usually to buy a set of one inch 1/4 inch hex drive insert bits. Here are couple of Wiha sets that Lowe’s is carrying:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wiha-Wiha-...Impact-Bit-Set-with-1-4-in-Ratchet/5000289431
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wiha-40-Piece-TerminatorBlue-Impact-Bit-Set/5013934583

You might want to add either a standard screwdriver bit holder or a t-handle bit holder. Lots of folks make them.

Ron

I’m a huge fan of this set.  I used it as a bike mechanic to get into fiddly fasteners.  I took out the pozidrive bits and replaced them with more hex bits, but now I’ve put them back into my kit for hinge work. https://www.kctool.com/wera-056490-tool-check-plus-bit-ratchet-set-with-sockets-metric/