Track saw for 45* cuts

treesner

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Wondering how thick of wood I could cut st a 45* with the tsc55? Does the track saw work well for this? Some research recommended cutting 90 first and then doing the 45?

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treesner said:
Wondering how thick of wood I could cut st a 45* with the tsc55? Does the track saw work well for this? Some research recommended cutting 90 first and then doing the 45?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You know a saw will struggle to cut at it's maximum depth.
Not sure the max thickness of the stock that can be cut at 45* with the 55 saw but you can expect the saw to struggle even more when the bevel is set to 45*.

Almost all saws have some degree of toe issue (misalignment of the blade to the guide rail). Usually it isn't even noticed until the saw is set to 45*. The usual result is burning of the wood on one side of the blade (almost always the outside) and an inconsistent bevel. In the worst case, if the operator persists in pushing the saw forward despite the warning signs, it can even lift the saw above the guide rail.

The worst case will happen when ripping natural wood at full depth using the wrong blade. Ripping a thick lamination of MDF might work ok with the same setup.

Switching to a blade with a lot more set to the teeth like the Panther blade could make the first example successful instead of disastrous.

The advice to cut close to the line at 90* first is good. Especially if you place the work on the support so that the cutoff is over the edge. Gravity will let it fall away from the blade minimizing any burning that a toed-in blade would produce if the offcut was fully supported.
 
Michael Kellough said:
treesner said:
Wondering how thick of wood I could cut st a 45* with the tsc55? Does the track saw work well for this? Some research recommended cutting 90 first and then doing the 45?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You know a saw will struggle to cut at it's maximum depth.
Not sure the max thickness of the stock that can be cut at 45* with the 55 saw but you can expect the saw to struggle even more when the bevel is set to 45*.

Almost all saws have some degree of toe issue (misalignment of the blade to the guide rail). Usually it isn't even noticed until the saw is set to 45*. The usual result is burning of the wood on one side of the blade (almost always the outside) and an inconsistent bevel. In the worst case, if the operator persists in pushing the saw forward despite the warning signs, it can even lift the saw above the guide rail.

The worst case will happen when ripping natural wood at full depth using the wrong blade. Ripping a thick lamination of MDF might work ok with the same setup.

Switching to a blade with a lot more set to the teeth like the Panther blade could make the first example successful instead of disastrous.

The advice to cut close to the line at 90* first is good. Especially if you place the work on the support so that the cutoff is over the edge. Gravity will let it fall away from the blade minimizing any burning that a toed-in blade would produce if the offcut was fully supported.

Thanks for the tips, I'll also look at that blade
My two use cases I'm thinking about is laminating multiple sheets of Baltic birch and then cutting to 45. I could cut individually then glue up but adds a level of pain

Other is cutting 45 in a big slab for waterfall style tables
 
COS is short for COSine.
The TS55 values look like they cannot be correct , and the TS75 values look like they are correct.

Then is the 55-mm depth from the saw?
And one need to subtract the rail thickness?... So does a TS55 on the rail only do somewhere in the 46-49 mm range?

There is a small amount to add back in for the width of the kerf. Should be SIN (or SINE) of the tilt angle x 1/2 blade width... So another 1/2-mm there.

Surely one could verify this with a TS55.
 
What I've done before when doing extreme bevel cuts in thick hardwood is cut it 1/16 or less proud, then do a final pass at target length so blade is just Nicking  off a small amount of material at full speed.
 
Edward A Reno III said:
What I've done before when doing extreme bevel cuts in thick hardwood is cut it 1/16 or less proud, then do a final pass at target length so blade is just Nicking  off a small amount of material at full speed.

This works but I consider it a last resort since dust collection drops drastically.
You do what you gotta to get it done...
 
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