Track saw guidance?

[Leo95se]

Can anyone offer real world experience on the track saw options?
My math tells me the 75 makes the most sense simply because it gets the most depth. I don’t know if that comes at the cost of too big or clunky to use for the more basic tasks like plywood ripping
I’m also not clear why one 55 is ‘plunge cut’, the differences in specs aren’t clear to me.

Any help is appreciated!

 

[Coen]

The HK 85 has more cuth depth than the TS 75, but not available in 110V
The TS 75 lacks some of the improvements later TS 55's have.
The saws with a K after the number lack a riving knife
The TS saws are plunge saws
The HK saws can plunge too, but it's not as evidently easy as with a TS series saw
If you are mostly cutting thing sheet goods the TS 75 is a heavy saw to do it with
The TS 75 has 2.4mm / 2.6mm kerf. The TS 55 FEQB only has 1.8mm and will cut the same piece (assuming it's depth is sufficient) faster.
HK saws (and the TS 60) are compatible with the FSK rails, TS saws other than the TS 60 are not.

 

[luvmytoolz]

The 75 seems to be pretty popular among the cabinet guys, I have the HK85 myself which is not much bigger, but really find it too big for general usage and only use it for slab work.

For general work I'll be getting the TSC55K as I want the smaller form factor and convenience of cordless, but if I had to stick to one saw and don't mind corded, the TS60K would be my saw of choice.

For me it's kind of in the goldilocks zone. It all really depends on how rare you'd need to be cutting thicker material than it can handle, you can flip the timber and do a second cut, but if you'll mostly be doing thicker material then the 75 would be better suited..

 

[tjbnwi]

Except for the HK line the track saws are all plunge cut.

If your primary use will be cutting sheet goods get the TS 60. The 55 and 60 will cut solids well with the proper blade. Which ever saw you get, get a full compliment of blades. If you’re ripping a lot of sheet goods I recommend getting the 3000 rail.

I do own the HK, 75, multiple 55’s and 60’s. They least used is the HK (no longer do work that is in its wheel house), next is the 75, the others get used daily.

Tom

 

[Coen]

Yup. My HK 85 only comes out if the TS 55 doesn't have enough cutting depth.

 

[Coen]

the HK

Which one?

 

[tjbnwi]

Which one?

An original corded 55. Have all of the FSK rails and all of the blades for it also.

Every time I buy a saw I get all of the blades that fit it. Just makes sense to me to have them on hand. Last rails I bought were the last 2 5000’s Festool USA had.

Tom

 

[onocoffee]

If you absolutely need greater depth of cut than 50mm, then the TS 75 will be a good choice. However, I'm not enamored with the 75 - for one main reason: the saw is 20 years old.

Now, there is something to be said about a tool reaching a level where, perhaps, improvements can only be minor - the OF 2200 is in that category. But the TS 75 EQ was released alongside the TS 55 EQ. Their designs and feature sets are, essentially, the same. However, the TS 55 has been through several revisions over the years while the 75 has remained as is.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Before the TS 75 came out I bought a used AT 65. It was well used (not abused) and looked like it was at least ten years old when I got it. Subjectively it is the smoothest running of all my five Festool circular saws. It doesn't have any of the refinements made in the last twenty something years but it's been perfectly capable of doing the job of a circular saw..

So I wouldn't shy away from an older saw that is in good condition.

 

[bobtskutter]

The TS75 has a slightly different design of guide base than the TS55 saws. The TS75 has a "metal to rail" contact for the saw guide, where as the TS55 does not not. That means rail guides of the TS75 wear away as the saw is used and the saw needs a whole new base to replace them, but the TS55 it's a plastic insert. I have no idea how long the rail guides will last on the TS75, maybe one of the pro's can answer. @tjbnwi ?

Regards
Bob

 

[Hipplewm]

TS75 is a BIG saw - if you are ripping plywood it is extreme overkill - if you are ripping 2" walnut - then the 75 makes sense
TS55/60 are pretty close to the same size - the TSC 55 is battery powered and the 60 is the newest, and has a 1.8mm kerf and plenty of power for most anything under 1.5" thick

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

My very first dip into the Festool pond was to purchase a TS75 and a 3000mm rail for a particular job in the early 2000's.
I thought I could use it for cutting all manner of materials, but very soon realised that for the majority of my cutting, a TS55 would be far more user friendly, mainly due to the weight & bulk of the 75 compared to the 55.

I still own the 75 and it does still get used on the odd occasion, but the TS 55 and TSC 55 are my go to choices.

 

[Packard]

My policy is to buy equipment and/or accessories as the need arises. Availability of Festool accessories has been good. My one exception is the Woodpecker’s One Time Tools. At the time I ordered a square from the One Time line of tools, the lead times were excessive.

For 99% of the options you will want, they will be readily available. So consider waiting until you establish a need.

If you have an issue with track saw operation, ask FOG how others have resolved it. Then choose your accessories or modify your work methods accordingly.

The issue of buying equipment in anticipation of need, is that the need might never occur and you will have spent money and used up shop space on things you don’t need.

 

[tjbnwi]

The TS75 has a slightly different design of guide base than the TS55 saws. The TS75 has a "metal to rail" contact for the saw guide, where as the TS55 does not not. That means rail guides of the TS75 wear away as the saw is used and the saw needs a whole new base to replace them, but the TS55 it's a plastic insert. I have no idea how long the rail guides will last on the TS75, maybe one of the pro's can answer. @tjbnwi ?

Regards
Bob

I looked at the base, it shows some scuffing of the powder coat. With the amount we use the 75 my guess is I’ll be dead before it needs the base replaced.

Tom

 

[Michael Kellough]

The TS75 has a slightly different design of guide base than the TS55 saws. The TS75 has a "metal to rail" contact for the saw guide, where as the TS55 does not not. That means rail guides of the TS75 wear away as the saw is used and the saw needs a whole new base to replace them, but the TS55 it's a plastic insert. I have no idea how long the rail guides will last on the TS75, maybe one of the pro's can answer. @tjbnwi ?

Regards
Bob

Good point, which detracts from what I said above. I would want to test drive any well used saw if possible but especially the TS 75 because of the possibility of wear of the base. The AT 65 on the other hand has a steel base so even long use does not substantially alter the fit with the rails.

 

[onocoffee]

Before the TS 75 came out I bought a used AT 65. It was well used (not abused) and looked like it was at least ten years old when I got it. Subjectively it is the smoothest running of all my five Festool circular saws. It doesn't have any of the refinements made in the last twenty something years but it's been perfectly capable of doing the job of a circular saw..

So I wouldn't shy away from an older saw that is in good condition.

This is a great point. My consternation is not with the TS 75, per se. But rather FT's insistence not to update the saw in twenty years while continually increasing its price.

I have both the TS 55 EQ and an older ATF 55 E. I was able to find both at very good prices and in very good condition. If you're able to find a 75 in good condition and at a good price, it would be worth picking up.

I wouldn't mind having a 75 for the times when I have deeper cuts.

 

[Michael Kellough]

My first Festool track saw was the ATF 55 (E?). It has a steel base which is handy when the rail is a little too short for the cut.
The continuous rail slot in the base means less of the base needs to be on the rail before cutting.
The subsequent bases with two contact points (nibs) require both points to be on the rail for the blade to be reliably parallel to the splinter guard.

I also like my old ATF 55 because the speed control is defective. Sometimes the electronic function that holds some of the power in reserve fails and the saw suddenly ramps up to full speed (at least 10% faster) which results in the finest cuts of all my saws. Unfortunately there is no predicting when this will happen.

 

[mino]

My first Festool track saw was the ATF 55 (E?). It has a steel base which is handy when the rail is a little too short for the cut.
The continuous rail slot in the base means less of the base needs to be on the rail before cutting.
The subsequent bases with two contact points (nibs) require both points to be on the rail for the blade to be reliably parallel to the splinter guard.

I also like my old ATF 55 because the speed control is defective. Sometimes the electronic function that holds some of the power in reserve fails and the saw suddenly ramps up to full speed (at least 10% faster) which results in the finest cuts of all my saws. Unfortunately there is no predicting when this will happen.

You really should look at the TS 60 .. the increased speed as well as the diameter augmenting that effect do indeed help with cut quality.

 

[Jim_in_PA]

I'm with Mino...if I were going to aquire a new Festool tracksaw right now (my ATF55 from long ago is still working just fine) it would be the TS60. Good specs and while it doesn't have the depth of the TS75, it's lighter, more nimble and current tech. I'd only opt for the TS75 if I was going to need that extra depth of cut frequently which I do not.

 

[luvmytoolz]

I also like my old ATF 55 because the speed control is defective. Sometimes the electronic function that holds some of the power in reserve fails and the saw suddenly ramps up to full speed (at least 10% faster) which results in the finest cuts of all my saws. Unfortunately there is no predicting when this will happen.

I bought my ATF55 in the 80's and had the same racing/sudden loss of power. With mine if I turned the speed control to the max possible it would come good, which indicated a dirty pot.

It's a good chance your's is the same, pull the top off the pot and clean nit out, and sand the contacts a little if needed.