Track saw technique

Tayler_mann

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Nov 23, 2014
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So I figured this might be a good topic to bring up as I had some experimentations this weekend. What is your track saw technique to get the cleanest square cuts possible for crosscutting and ripping lumber. Sheet goods is really simple and easy and I haven't found techniques to be any kind of an issue there for myself. However, if you have the upur issues at one time with shet goods please inform. I found that I always use my left hand and only my left hand on the left side of the track. So I stand on the cutting side of the track all the time. I experimented a little bit and found I get I consistent cuts with two hands on the saw. I am not sure why and am going to take a few 4k videos with my go pro and try and see what is different. Also if I stand on the right aside and use my right hand my angle is off by about 1 degree. I believe I must just put pressure inwards towards the guide rail causing it to tilt slightly. I also found that when my AC shit off my Mft top sagged between my stringer supports of the table. This had major problems for cutting on that area. So I moved to the edge of the table and cuts where again square and perfect. I always use rip dogs and bech sogs for squaring my rail and material and haven't had any issues there since my Mft is CNC'd not homemade. I also use off cuts to shim my rail to the perfect height.

I look forward to how everyone's technique of the Tracksaw. I always like trying new things and learning more about my tools and different ways of use.
 
I iam right handed, but all the time i use left  hand  on saw(trigger)  and right hand on chassis and hold depth with a thump.
I Stand behind  saw.

Edit:
When i used right hand on a trigger, cuts were out of angle a and this option wasnt comfortable.
 
DzordanoBruno said:
I iam right handed, but all the time i use left  hand  on saw(trigger)  and right hand on chassis and hold depth with a thump.
I Stand behind  saw.

Edit:
When i used right hand on a trigger, cuts were out of angle a and this option wasnt comfortable.

Soon ste saying you use two hands to clarify? I found be the exact same hing with my right hand as well. Which is odd because I am right handed as well.

sucker 4 tools said:
i jump up on my big cutting table and get my weight over the saw

When you say you jump on your large table do you mean you are ripping dimensional lumber or sheet goods? Also do you find problems in square cuts ever? Is your table flat and true I only ask as large tables are difficult to make perfectly flat and as I stated that is one area I found to be the largest variable in accurate cuts.
 
i am mainly cutting sheet goods but can do what ever as long as its clamped accordingly, the table is 8x4 ft and pretty flat i have an 8x4 sheet of ply covering the whole top, is amazing how much the depth of cut can change with the rail depending on clamping and technique. i dont find much problem with unsquare cuts in 18mm ply as long as the saw is spot on to start with and i am carefull to put even pressure on it during the cut and also let it pull its way through at the speed its happy at, i dont clamp down hard as this warps the rail
 
I cut lefty exclusively and am careful to relax my trigger finger and push straight ahead and down.  Cutting technique is similar to shooting...relax.
 
Just to add an additional question as long as we are talking about it, at the end of the cut do people raise the blade before it comes to a stop, or let it stop while it's still fully plunged?
 
I'm a lefty, I use 2 hands for cutting and make sure the green tab is down and on yr material when cutting so you won't be tilting the saw keeping it at a 90 to the material.
 
Edward A Reno III said:
Just to add an additional question as long as we are talking about it, at the end of the cut do people raise the blade before it comes to a stop, or let it stop while it's still fully plunged?

I raise the sae while it is still running. Now that you mention it that could be why someimes I'll nick the very top corner of a board while cross cutting. I also think that had to do with my top sagging between the supports of my table. I found if your table is not flat it is really hard to get a good cut on something due to the fact that your track will dip up and down as you slid it across the piece. The AC In my house stopped working and it was 100% humidity for a few days in a row. My MFT has about 1 years worth of cuts on both sides which the first side I did not have bench dogs or rip dogs so there is a massacre of random cuts. My table supports are made of LVL sanded to fine finish and ripped to 6" strips so hopefully there was no movement in my top. I am hoping I need to just replace the top and all will be well.
 
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