Transition from Table Saw to TS55 and MFT Table

[Olive Press]

I sold my table saw and transitioned to using the TS55 with an MFT type table slab.
I am trying to figure out a "recipe" to do what I was doing on the table saw, but now using the TS55 and MFT instead.

Do I need a Fence on the MFT?
Which specific bench dogs do I need? Sizes etc.?
Are there any sets people would recommend?
Are there certain items I should just start out with?

I would love a shopping list of "must haves" from those of you who also made such a transition, as I try to wrap my mind around the whole Track-saw and Bench-dog world.
Thanks in advance to those of you willing to lend a hand (mind) and time responding.
It's really nice that you're all here.

 

[Festdewalkita]

I know it doesn't answer all your questions, but searching this site using "table saw" as the search term popped this as item # 3.
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...HPSESSID=302i3rdil856joljg0v61pnoe2#msg623845

I'm still new myself, and don't even have an MFT-style workbench, yet.  Alternatives to bench dog/hole systems include t-track/dovetail.

Hope that helps you at least get started.

 

[Vtshopdog]

Incra Positioner was a huge improvement to my work flow. Fairly big $$ item but does double duty on my router table.

Precision Plate is a pre made accessory to mount it to an MFT but I just made something similar from BB ply. 

 

[woodferret]

It depends on what you were tooled up for with your original table saw to begin with.  But going sideways, I'd search up the slew of TSO products and their reviews on this forum.  You'd be less tied to getting an accurate MFT fence/table, and more inclined to just using random sacrificial cutting workspaces.  Their entire kit is the cost of a decent jobsite saw but I assume you made the transition for one reason or another (likely space?).

 

[Olive Press]

I know it doesn't answer all your questions, but searching this site using "table saw" as the search term popped this as item # 3.
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...HPSESSID=302i3rdil856joljg0v61pnoe2#msg623845

I'm still new myself, and don't even have an MFT-style workbench, yet.  Alternatives to bench dog/hole systems include t-track/dovetail.

Hope that helps you at least get started.

Thank you. I'm going the MFT slab route ie. A top with the 20mm holes spaced as the MFT on top of saw horses. Super portable.

 

[Olive Press]

It depends on what you were tooled up for with your original table saw to begin with.  But going sideways, I'd search up the slew of TSO products and their reviews on this forum.  You'd be less tied to getting an accurate MFT fence/table, and more inclined to just using random sacrificial cutting workspaces.  Their entire kit is the cost of a decent jobsite saw but I assume you made the transition for one reason or another (likely space?).

Yes. I was planning on upgrading my contractor saw for both a better table saw and a safer saw, so I ordered a Sawstop. While on back order, I had more time to consider the Sawstop garage footprint. Thanks to Peter Millard's videos, I then did a complete 180º and got a TS55 instead. Now it's just great to have a Systainer taking up room instead of a large Table saw plus it's the "safer" / newer saw I was looking for.

 

[Olive Press]

I would still love to hear from anyone who was/is in my same new MFT using situation.
What items did you buy and currently can't be without?
Which bench dogs?
Bench dog fence?
In other words, what do I need to make an MFT to work like a table saw.
Thanks

 

[Pant]

Compared to table saw dog holes are inaccurate and are only good for clamping, even if the top is perfectly cnc machined. The holes wear out relatively quickly (or are loose to begin with) and change because of humidity. Put a long dog in fresh hole and poke it at the top and you will see quite a lot of play. Screwing it in place is useless unless you leave it there permanently because next time you screw it it will be in slightly different position. You will not get anywhere near table saw accuracy if you use dog holes, and if you do get it you will only get it sometimes and definitely not consistently.

You need some permanent references in the table that will never move. I have permanent bolts coming from below to which I just screw bench dogs with a tapped hole into when I need a cutting station. The track can then be bumped and fixed against them while a fence can be bumped and fixed against dogs in the perpendicular direction. Because the dogs are metal and very precisely machined, when tightened there is only 0.02 mm (.001 inches) of variance between removals and insertions when checked with dial indicator. Compared to dog hole insertions that is  easily 100-1000x more accurate and comparable to table saw.

I currently use the benchdogs rail dogs (because they have precisely centered tapped hole, when used as actual rail dogs they are dogshit) but I ordered the vario mft magnetic stainless steel dogs, they also have centered tapped hole but allow using magnets to bump the rail instead of the ujk rail clips.

 

[Dan C]

This might help you. I know it did me when I was in the same spot. The pics show a lot of ways to hold and cut material
https://k--b.org/files/Getting_the_most_from_the_MFT_multifunction_table.pdf

 

[Grev]

This thread might be helpful to you also.  I use the Woodpecker DP Track For my fence and also their MFT Rail Square.  It works great for my system.  Good luck.
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/mft-and-ts55-instead-of-a-table-saw/msg623782/#msg623782

 

[Dan C]

This thread might be helpful to you also.  I use the Woodpecker DP Track For my fence and also their MFT Rail Square.  It works great for my system.  Good luck.
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/mft-and-ts55-instead-of-a-table-saw/msg623782/#msg623782

That’s a good one too

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I know it doesn't answer all your questions, but searching this site using "table saw" as the search term popped this as item # 3.
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...HPSESSID=302i3rdil856joljg0v61pnoe2#msg623845

I'm still new myself, and don't even have an MFT-style workbench, yet.  Alternatives to bench dog/hole systems include t-track/dovetail.

Hope that helps you at least get started.

Thank you. I'm going the MFT slab route ie. A top with the 20mm holes spaced as the MFT on top of saw horses. Super portable.

As somebody else recently pointed out, as soon as the MDF starts to sag/deflect, the bench dogs will no longer be square to the MDF holes, or tops spaced 96mm apart, which likely creates many different issues for square cuts and other uses of this system.  If you’re not using the MFT table, make sure to at least build some surrounding base to minimize this sag rather than using a slab alone.

 

[ThisVeteranVlog]

I sold my table saw and transitioned to using the TS55 with an MFT type table slab.
I am trying to figure out a "recipe" to do what I was doing on the table saw, but now using the TS55 and MFT instead.

Do I need a Fence on the MFT?
Which specific bench dogs do I need? Sizes etc.?
Are there any sets people would recommend?
Are there certain items I should just start out with?

I would love a shopping list of "must haves" from those of you who also made such a transition, as I try to wrap my mind around the whole Track-saw and Bench-dog world.
Thanks in advance to those of you willing to lend a hand (mind) and time responding.
It's really nice that you're all here.

Welcome to the world without tablesaws! I've been without one for a few years now, only a track saw, MFT/3 and kapex gets me by on most of my projects. This is my second MFT/3 (sold first one pending divorce), and I still only have stock items. I guess the real question is what kind of things are you going to be making??

When it comes to buying tools and accessories, I've found that the best way to figure out what you need to purchase next is to get in the shop and makes some sawdust. I keep a whiteboard in my shop, every time I have a moment when I'm woodworking and I say to myself "I wish I had a xyz..." I write that item down. Every time following that, I have the need/want again, I put a tick mark next to it. After a month or a few weeks, depending on how many projects I've made, I buy whatever has the biggest number of tick marks.

I'm not sure if you already have the MFT/3, but that's the best way I've found to figure out what is the best to buy. Asking the community, you're likely to get different responses from everyone - thereby not really getting you the answers you're hoping for. Everyone has different needs for their shop.

Having said that, I would recommend you getting the quick clamps. I use them on every project to hold down materials - ensuring quality cuts and they are a snap to use.

Hope this helps!

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Space/portability are not an issue in my situation. So I have an entire 4' x 8' table for this. I used the Parf-guide system to make a couple of rows for the short dogs and use it primarily for cross cuts. Initially I just cut to pencil marks. After a while I routed in a length of T-track with an adhesive measuring tape and a stop. For simple square cuts, this has worked great for a long time.
For angled cuts, I used pencil marks with the sheet layed out on that table on top of a sheet of foam insulation, until I got the Woodpeckers rail square a few weeks ago. Some angles are even too much for it though, so the pencil marks still work.
I do stuff like this. It's 24' long, 42" high and mostly made of Corian. Personally, I don't like the design, but it's not my call to make. The shape is cool but the color choices are bad. Why would you put those colors together? The off white is too close to the wall color and the graphite base in front of that black recess in the wall?