Trimming Frameless Builtins?

leftistelf

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May 24, 2008
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Planning on going frameless for a builtin cabinet (four doors, now drawers) with builtin bookshelves on top of it. The cabinets and bookcases aren't an issue - there are lots of online resources for those.

My question is how folks trim the units to the wall and ceiling. With face frames, the answer is relatively easy. But, with a frameless design, it's not clear how. Anyone have example pictures or ideas? I've searched and searched, but most frameless searches end up with kitchen cabinets, not builtins!
 
There needs to be some scribe moulding applied to the end.  Its attached to the side of the built in not on the "face" of the frameless.  Unless the wall is dead flat and plumb, yeah right.  If the wall is close, you can caulk in the gap with color match caulk.
 
Here's a side close-up of some IKEA frameless cabinets I installed some years ago between two walls in a dinette area.  The face of the filler strip on the end was scribed to match the wall and attached with screws from inside the cabinet.  The strip is roughly an inch and a half wide, but I have some similar cabinets I will be installing in our great room and I plan on making that filler only about three fourths of an inch, just enough to provide a scribe strip.  In that case there will only be one filler strip and the other end will be exposed.  I placed the face of the filler almost even with, maybe a hair back, from the front of the frameless box.

I hope this helps.

Mike A.

 

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We usually set ours back, flush with the back face of the doors/drawer fronts, which creates a shadow line look. Can look good if you paint them the same as the walls, makes the cabinet look more built-in. The smaller the better, but that depends on how good the walls are.
 
leftistelf said:
My question is how folks trim the units to the wall and ceiling.

What Mike said.
Scribed to the wall and ceiling.
When you "fit" a frameless cabinet this way  (walls on both sides) your installed frameless cabinet by definition becomes a  face frame cabinet.
Alternatively you could just scribe the side walls of the cabinet to the back wall and leave the open ends but that just looks bad and collects dust etc.
Tim
 
I have add a scribe molding both flush with the carcass and set-back 1/4 or 6mm. It depended on the look the project call for in the spec sheet. If I didn't frame the job, I tried to go to the site before the wallboard was install and plumbed and leveled the areas that my work was to be installed. On remodeling job that were badly out of square I would fit 1x plumb and level and have it painted to match the wall and/or ceiling. Good Luck and hope this helps. B
 
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