Trimming the guide rail splinter guard with a TS75

[JDLee]

I'm new to Festool and these forums.  I bought a TS75 and want to trim the rubber splinter guard on the guide rail, but I have a few questions about how to do that.

I've searched these forums and read several good posts regarding trimming the splinterguard.  One of those posts made me aware of the contradictory directions Festool gives for trimming.  The online manual for my TS75 says to set the speed to 6, place the saw on the rear of the guard rail, turn the saw on, press it down to the cutting depth, and trim it along the full length without interruption.

The online manual for the TS55 gives much more specific instructions.  But it recommends setting the speed to 1.  It also recommends a shallow cutting depth (which the TS75 manual does not mention) of 6-7mm so that the blade teeth penetrate by about half a tooth.  It further recommends having the splinter guard hanging over the edge so you don't cut the table (again, the TS75 manual makes not mention of this).

(1.)   I read a post from Bob Marino recommending the slow speed setting ("1") over the fast ("6").  Am I correct in presuming this applies equally to the TS75?

(2.)   Should I leave the strip hanging over the edge when I trim it (as the TS55 manual recommends)?  It seems to me that it would be better to have it fully on a scrap piece to support it while trimming it.  Would this choice affect the recommended speed for trimming the guard strip or the recommended depth of cut setting?

(3.)   Since this cut must begin at the very rear of the rail to trim the entire strip at once, am I correct in presuming that you begin the cut by plunging into the strip? 

(I ask this third question because a Festool rep recommended not beginning regular cuts by plunging.  To this end, he recommended having at least 110" of rail to trim 8' lengths so that the saw could be fully plunged on the rail before beginning to cut.)

I'd appreciate any answers to these questions, and any other advice/tips you can give (including why the directions vary in the two manuals).

...

 

[Eli]

I've cut the strip both fast and slow, and haven't noticed a huge difference. If you're doing multiple rails, join them in different sequence and you can get that little bit on the takeoff end cut. Just lay it down and cut it.

 

[JDLee]

I've cut the strip both fast and slow, and haven't noticed a huge difference. If you're doing multiple rails, join them in different sequence and you can get that little bit on the takeoff end cut. Just lay it down and cut it.

Thanks for the response, Eli.  I guess maybe I've asked one of those questions that's been asked enough that people don't want to respond.  But I just couldn't nail down some of the details on what will be the first time I've used not only this saw, but any Festool tool.

I can see how joining the rails would allow me to cut forward into the guide strip without having to plunge into it.  But I'd be using another rail with an un-trimmed strip to do that, so I'd still be plunging into one strip or the other. 

Is it okay to plunge into the strip?

Do you trim it with some sort of scrap material under the strip, or do you let it just hang over the edge?

Thanks again.

...

 

[Eli]

I plunged into it my first time, if I recall correctly. I think my 1400 still has a little 'ear' at one end where I've never made it quite far back enough, and I'm too lazy to slide the connectors to the other end (*edit* and join another rail there just to trim it). I'd definitely lay it on a sacrificial piece of wood to trim it, although I'm sure you'd do no harm without. Remember to always add 5mm for the thickness of the guide rail. Don't have a big stress about it, just zip it and start working. Might as well put a 2mm deep groove in the MFT worktop while you're at it.  ;D

 

[Corwin]

Take the plunge and cut that baby.  When you do, make sure your cut starts and ends with the saw's gibs still on the rail and you will be left with a rail that has a little at each end that doesn't/didn't get trimmed.  Not to worry, you probably will not use that portion until you join two (or more) rails together, and you can perform this procedure at that time with the rails joined to trim the rest.

Corwin

 

[Michael Kellough]

...Is it okay to plunge into the strip?

Do you trim it with some sort of scrap material under the strip, or do you let it just hang over the edge?

It's okay to plunge, especially if it is unavoidable.

It is a little better to trim the guide strip with a sacrificial panel underneath the guide rail. The dust collection only works well if the blade is embedded in something and the blade is a little more stable within a kerf too.

 

[tmryan]

When trimming the splinter guard strip. It is perfectly safe and allowed (per Festool rep) to pull the saw backwards (while skimming the surface with spinning blade) until only the back guide jaw knob is off the track. I set my plunge depth to just scimming the wood surface but enough to cut through the splinter guard. But, before you do this you can either screw down a guide board that's parallel with the left edge of your saw base or hold it firm with your hand, like I do (See attached picture). This works perfectly and cuts the back end of your splinter guard completely. You can also do the front as well. You don't have to trim the ends. But, if you're like me and use each end to line up cuts, then do it.

[attachimg=#]

 

[semenza]

tmryan, welcome to the forum.  [smile]

You really don't need to cut those last few inches at the ends. Just don't use the very end to align with marks.    If using one rail the saw doesn't cut there anyway, and if connecting two rails those portions will be cut where the rails connect when the first pass is made.

Seth