Trion burning blades

rdesigns

Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
187
Received it yesterday, and test cuts resulted in burning blades. A close look at the carbide guides showed that one side was touching the blade while the other side had clearance. The fix was simple enough--loosen the torx screw that holds the guide assembly to the saw's body and adjust it slightly to center the guides on the blade. This also improved the perpendularity (sic) of the cut in thick stock.

The owner's manual didn't mention anything about this.

I suppose that the FastFix blade clamping chuck will always tighten one side of the blade against the same side of the chuck, so that when I use blades of different thicknesses, I will need to go thru the same adjustment of the carbide guide assembly since the FastFix chuck doesn't center the blade.

Anybody else notice this? (This is my first post to the forum; I am relatively new as a Festool junkie. I have already spent more on a few Festool portable tools--TS 55, CT26, OF 1400, EQ 300--than all the stationary tools in my shop.)
 
Hi,

Welcome to the FOG !

It seems that you have fixed the problem. I did adjust my guides at some point, but I don't remember exactly why (burning?, propper fit? , etc), it was a few years ago.

Seth
 
hi and welcome to the fog.

i have had similar issues with the trion.

i rectified these issues using the same methods as yourself.

i tend to use only festool blades so i dont need to adjust the carbide guides every time.

you will have to adjust the guides every time if your blades are of various thickness.

festool owners manuals are a waste of perfectly good paper.

unfortunately, there are no supplemental manuals for the trion jigsaw.

justin.
 
Here is a video on how to set the blade guides for the Trion.  There are tons of instructional videos on youtube.  Just do a search with Festool and then the name of your product.
Trion Guide Adjustment

Peter
 
I've had two Trion's and sold them when I picked up a Bosch 1590 series.  The Bosch has self adjusting blade guides making for more efficient use.  I use different thickness blades all the time, so having to keep adjusting was a royal pain.

Julian
 
That example is the classic, "instructional method".

However, it is easier and more consistent if you push the blade all the way forward and tighten the guides until it cannot move backward. This, of course, must be done with the blade pulled fully outward and the saw in the fully eccentric position, as in the video. The blade is then prevented from dropping back into the normal position. You can bump it or wiggle it around and it will not drop back.

At this point, loosen the blade guides very slightly. When the blade pops back in to position, you have adjusted it properly. There is no finesse required.

The difference in the approach described above and that of the approach in the video is simple... The approach above eliminates the possibility that while a person's finger is pushing on the blade, it might be pushing slightly sideward.

If you trap the blade with the machine and only the machine('s guides), the finger pushing sideward is eliminated.

Any time that human error is introduced in fine tuning, that error will eventually display itself. Processes that eliminate, or minimize, error are inherently more accurate.

Tom
 
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