Trion jigsaw splinters wood

[permont]

Hi List, I am mainly a "lurker" here, but last week I finally put some of my tools to use. The TS55 performed flawless, but the jigsaw PS300 caused problems. I was trying to remove some inches / centimeters from a tabletop of a table I made. The tabletop was readymade "glued up" fir. Due to space I could not use the TS55.

Anyway, besides using the splinter guard, which BTW I found  hard to see when it was inserted properly, I tried to use the settings recommended in the manual, it all ended up with the jigsaw splitting and spitting out severe chunks of wood from the intended cutline. It was worst on the side the jigsaw was, which unfortunately was the up side. Sawing the other side of the table, I tried using the saw from below, better but not near good.

My old Bosch, 10 years old, performs better ...

Anyone who has any ideas re. settings or probable "user error" ? 

TIA / Per M

 

[Warrior]

I do not own but have use the PS300.

You may no be using the correct blade for the task.

Eiji

 

[tvgordon]

I have to second Eiji's response,  I would guess you're using a coarse cutting blade.  In general, the more teeth per inch the smoother the cut.  I also have a couple Bosch jigsaws and if the saw is set to one of the orbital settings the cut will be rougher too (does the Festool have blade orbital motion?).

Tom.

 

[Frans]

Are you sure you inserted the splinter guard far enough? The sawblade should cut a slot into it for about 3/8", so it is surrounded on front and sides.

Also, the different types of blades have different widths, so you need a seperate splinter guard for each one. I'd use a S75/2,5 blade in this case, I think, orbital set to one. And check that the blade guides are not too loose. If the blade can move too much sideways, this will wear out the splinter guard rapidly.

I use my PS300 quite alot, and the splinter guard works quite well (apart from visibility issues). Crosscuts in fir are not completely splinter free, there is usually a light fuzz, but a quick swipe with some sandpaper is enough to remove that.

Frans

 

[Mike_Chrest]

The sawblade should cut a slot into it for about 3/8",

Yes, as Frans says. Push the splinter guard into the moving blade (with a chunk of scrap or edge of a table)
Mike

 

[minimal]

A: Which blade are your using?
B: What's the oscillation set at?

It definitely sound like something is not right: with the splinter guard on and the above two things set reasonably, you
should get a good cut.

 

[permont]

Hi,

Thanks for all the replies. I started with a FS 75 / 4 blade, then switched to one with finer teeth, the saw is in the summer house so I don't have access to it right now... but I think the next blade was something like 75 / 2.5. Oscillation was set to 1 or 2. Did'nt really understand how to set the splinter guard, I will try to push it harder towards the blade, I didn't push the splinter guard into the moving blade, I must confess.

When is there a need for oscillation or no oscillation, as you hear I am a beginner  :-[

I will try tomorrow again as I have some sawing to do, although this time I will try on some scrap wood first.

 

[minimal]

Yeah, the spliter guard is sacrificial: there's no slot cut in it, but you put it on and set the
blade to medium orbit and then start up the saw. Finally you push (using a block of wood, OBVIOUSLY)
the guard into its final position: as you push it a slot will get cut in it that perfectly matches your blade
position.

Orbit is pretty much clear once you start using it: more orbit means bigger rips out of the wood, and
(usually) faster forward motion.

Good luck, it sounds like you'll be running fine in no time.

 

[thewoodwhisperer]

Also remember, for best performance, you want to adjust the blade guides for each new blade type you install.  This can make a big difference in the quality of cut and its really one of the things that separates this saw from the competition.  Whenever I install a new blade, I loosen the guides all the way and set the blade back as far as it will go.  Then I slowly tighten the guide about a 1/4 turn each shot.  After each turn I push the blade forward to see if it still moves.  When you finally get to the point that the blade jams, back the guides off by a smidge, and your blade guides are set.  I am sure you'll get that saw performing like it should!

 

[ccmviking]

Make sure you are not trying to push so hard and fast either.  Let the blade make the cut.  Everyone else has give you good advice here.  I hardly ever use any of the higher pendulum stroke settings (i keep mine at 0).  I'm never really just hogging anything out which I think that it's best suited for 1-3.  What's probably going to help you the most is getting that splinter guard set correctly.

Chris...

 

[Neill]

Although the barrel grip was my first Festool purchase I had not used it until this week.  With the help of the responses to your original post and reviewing the manual once again, I was able to confidently make some cuts on some small parts.  I even used the saw in the inverted position, which was not as complicated as I though it would be.

As mentioned previously, use the right blade (including length) for the job, properly install the splinter guard, and adjust the guide rails as needed, and you will do fine.

Neill

 

[tvgordon]

Just a tip, if you're cutting something that it is important that you have no tearout, just score the cut line with a knife before cutting.  I've done this when making cuts in expensive hardwood plywood and it keeps the jigsaw from splintering the thin veneer.  Takes a little time but works.

Tom.

 

[permont]

Many thanks for all the answers and help. With the orbiting set to zero and the splinter guard adjusted, I managed to saw a fine curving line without tearout. 

It needed almost no sanding to look good after the cut.

Now I'm eagerly awaiting delivery of a new Domino in a Systainer together with a systainer full of domino "bits".

There goes the weekend .....