Try doing this with a table saw

[Gary in Texas]

Rob, you are correct!  Thanks for clarifying. 

Wood Hog - It was me asking the stupid question......  Have you never heard anybody start a question by asking "let me ask a stupid question"?????  I will refrain from further clarification.  Have a nice day.......

 

[butzla]

So I guess no ones getting great cuts in plywood with the 52 tooth saw blade as know ones responded to that question? I really want to know this as the blade alone is $130.00 so please if any one is using this combo and getting silkly smooth cuts from both side of the blade please let be know if using the 52 v the 32 tooth blade makes all the difference.
Thanks

I have that blade on my TS75 and I do get fabulous cuts.  This saw works great for cutting up sheet goods but I would like to have a TS55 saw for bevel crosscutting hardwood boards on the MFT.  I find that when my saw is tipped for a bevel cut, the weight tends to push the cut out of square because of the added weight of the head. 
I mention wanting to have both saw because I thought maybe you do too.  The trouble having both is I heard you need to have two sets of rails because the kerfs are different between saws and zero clearance tape will be out of whack.  I friend at my local Rockler told me that Tenryu blades have a consistent kerf thickness throughout most of their line.  So I would look at Tenryu blades for future plans.  They cut at least as good as Festool blades too, very high quality from what I understand.  If anyone here can verify this feel free to jump right in.

Tenryu Blades for Festool Saws

 

[BUTTER]

I own two 52-tooth blades for my TS75 so that at least one of them is always sharp.  They make a significant difference for less chipout, particularly in veneered sheet goods and prefinished panels.

To get the smoothest cut edge, you have to calibrate/tune your saw - Festool rep demonstrated it for me using a one sheet of paper for toe-in.

You could use a finer tooth blade for rips, but the 18T rip blade, as others already said, is far superior for solid stock.    I find it much faster and less prone to overheating (which can then lead to wobble/warp in the blade.)

Whatever you do, STAY AWAY from those thin kerf Tenryu blades!  :'(
They can barely cut 1.5" of plywood without warping and destroying your cut.  Worst $80 I ever spent.

 

[Wood Hog]

Rob, you are correct!  Thanks for clarifying. 

Wood Hog - It was me asking the stupid question......  Have you never heard anybody start a question by asking "let me ask a stupid question"?????  I will refrain from further clarification.  Have a nice day.......

Thanks Gary, No problem, life's to short to worry about the little stuff.
You have a good day too.

 

[mike_aa]

I own two 52-tooth blades for my TS75 so that at least one of them is always sharp.  They make a significant difference for less chipout, particularly in veneered sheet goods and prefinished panels.

To get the smoothest cut edge, you have to calibrate/tune your saw - Festool rep demonstrated it for me using a one sheet of paper for toe-in.

You could use a finer tooth blade for rips, but the 18T rip blade, as others already said, is far superior for solid stock.    I find it much faster and less prone to overheating (which can then lead to wobble/warp in the blade.)

Whatever you do, STAY AWAY from those thin kerf Tenryu blades!  :'(
They can barely cut 1.5" of plywood without warping and destroying your cut.  Worst $80 I ever spent.

Which blade did you have problems with?

 

[Wood Hog]

Ok thanks Jim and Jo,  it was good to hear from fellow 75 owners that are getting great results, I suspected as much, but all I could seem to find on the website is the 55 is better for sheet goods, (which I'm sure it is) I think what's happening is because the 75 comes with a more of a ripping blade people's first impression of cutting ply wood with it is chipped ply wood, however their first experiences if they cut ply wood are based on the incorrect blade which is exactly the same mistake I made.
My Festool dealer is coming over today and bringing me both the 52T and the 18T blades so I'm I'm set. until the next crisis arises.

 

[greg mann]

Stupid question but......have you done a search on this forum for the TS-75 with fine blade?  I know there has been discussion on this forum previously wrt the TS 75 and blade usage.  One reason to search......some folks may not frequent the forum often, yet, have posted (perhaps) such a reply.

It stands to reason, however, blades with more teeth are more suited for cutting sheet goods.  The 18 tooth blade is more suitable for ripping. 

Gary

Hi Gary please accept my apologies for asking a "stupid question" I did a search for TS75 52 tooth blade, and combinations of the same, all that kept coming up was posts on different saw blades I couldn't seem to find specifically what I was looking for, so I thought I'd ask fellow foggers to help out.  Like you I have seen many posts here on TS75 vs TS55 but they all seem to be about the comparison between the two saws. Incidentally I tried your suggestion to search for TS75 fine blade and nothing useful to my question came up. The search feature on this web site is fabulous, I can usually find what I'm looking for. I've found great advice even back from 2007. Again I'm sorry if this appears to be a "stupid question" I've only had these tools since December and haven't used them much yet.
[/quote]

I think Gary was thinking HE might have been asking a stupid question, not you. all is good. (Perhaps we need a referee icon.)  ;D

Ah! Already clarified, I see.

 

[rst]

I use Amana AGE plastic/aluminum blades which I buy from Toolstoday.  These are German made industrial quality blades and give a fabulous cut on anything from acrylics, plywood, hardwood and aluminum.  I do production work and have never sharpened one.

 

[roblg3]

you DO NOT need 2 sets of rails(hallelujah) [big grin].  In the supplemental manuals there's an adjustment that can be made to move the kerf to be equal on both saws.  I have yet to do this for mine, but It's happening soon! [wink]

 

[Wood Hog]

Success!

 

[rljatl]

So I guess no ones getting great cuts in plywood with the 52 tooth saw blade as know ones responded to that question? I really want to know this as the blade alone is $130.00 so please if any one is using this combo and getting silkly smooth cuts from both side of the blade please let be know if using the 52 v the 32 tooth blade makes all the difference.
Thanks

I have that blade on my TS75 and I do get fabulous cuts.  This saw works great for cutting up sheet goods but I would like to have a TS55 saw for bevel crosscutting hardwood boards on the MFT.  I find that when my saw is tipped for a bevel cut, the weight tends to push the cut out of square because of the added weight of the head. 
I mention wanting to have both saw because I thought maybe you do too.  The trouble having both is I heard you need to have two sets of rails because the kerfs are different between saws and zero clearance tape will be out of whack.  I friend at my local Rockler told me that Tenryu blades have a consistent kerf thickness throughout most of their line.  So I would look at Tenryu blades for future plans.  They cut at least as good as Festool blades too, very high quality from what I understand.  If anyone here can verify this feel free to jump right in.

Tenryu Blades for Festool Saws

Unfortunately, the Tenryu blades do not have a consistent kerf for the 210mm blades.  The kerf for each blade is listed in the chart on the Tenryu page you linked to.  I have read that the Tenryu blades for the Kapex are excellent.

 

[waho6o9]

Super clean cut congrats!

Which blade did you use?

 

[Wood Hog]

Super clean cut congrats!

Which blade did you use?

I forgot to mention, the 52T saw blade.

 

[holtpreston]

Would I have a problem using a TS55 to this same job? I have a slab of mahogany that is very similar in size.

 

[jacko9]

The title of the post got my interest, sorry but my Powermatic 66 5hp table saw with a Excalibur sliding table allows me to do whatever I need to do and while a track saw would be nice, it's not necessary for building furniture like I have been doing for the past almost 40 years.

 

[Wood Hog]

The title of the post got my interest, sorry but my Powermatic 66 5hp table saw with a Excalibur sliding table allows me to do whatever I need to do and while a track saw would be nice, it's not necessary for building furniture like I have been doing for the past almost 40 years.

I'm very jealous of you sliding table saw attached to arguably the finest cabinet saw in the world, and you have 30 years experience on me,and here comes the but, first off there is almost no limit as to how long your timers have to be, cutting this way is no less accurate than cutting on a sliding tabe saw, I was getting perfect results using this method. Space is also a big concern for a lot of folk, and portability try packing up and resetting that 1000lb powermatic monster. I guess  I should titled this "Try doing this on a table saw and all the other stuff previously mentioned?"
I was just so bloody impressed at how well this track system operated I forgot to mention all the other benefits.
Happy wood working.

 

[wow]

Wood Hog:

I read your original post back in January and thought 'Here's another Track Saw convert', then smiled knowingly to myself and moved on. Based on your subject I didn't pay attention to subsequent posts so I missed your questions. Sorry about that!

For the benefit of future readers of this thread (since I'm late to the party) I would like to make some observations. First, I think some people missed the point of the experience you had. Allow me to clarify.

Yes, you CAN do this on a table saw. But there are some caveats (aren't there always?). Assuming a piece that is 9 feet long, to do this on a table saw you need to solve the following problems:

• Alignment/guide board - You either need a large slider/panel saw ($$$$) OR a straight board to clamp your stock to in order to get the first clean edge. If I assume that most people own a 'traditional' table saw such as a Unisaw, PowerMatic, Saw Stop, etc. without a slider, that requires you to come up with a suitable piece of material to use for the guide edge. What if you don't have such a board at hand? The TS75 eliminates this problem with the use of the guide rail.

• Weight - the entire material/guide board combination has to be lifted into place and then carefully maneuvered past the blade safely and accurately. You need infeed and outfeed supports at the very least, and a helper might be nice. The TS75 eliminates this problem by moving the saw to the work.

• Size - if you are cutting stock that is 9' long, you need TWICE that length to use a table saw for this purpose. That means you needs AT LEAST 20 feet of clear, workable space in which to do this. If you're a big commercial shop with more space than the deck of an aircraft carrier (yes, I'm talking about you Darcy  [poke] [big grin]) this isn't a concern, but for a small shop it can be. What if you don't HAVE 20 feet available to you? The TS75 eliminates this problem as the material stays stationary and you only need enough length for the guide rail.

• Time - it takes time to find or make a suitable guide board, clear 10 feet in front and back of the table saw, set up infeed/outfeed supports, and put it all away once you're done. The TS75 eliminates this problem - just position your guide rail on the workpiece, clamp it down, and cut. Done!

OK, that's enough Festool marketing and promotion for one post [embarassed] but I believe it more accurately depicts the OP’s point.

Now, about the blades…

Shortly after I got my TS75 I purchased one of every blade that Festool sells. Most recently I used the Solid Surface / Laminate 60-Tooth Saw Blade (495382) to re-size a Corian sink. The resulting cut was AMAZING - perfectly straight and as smooth as a babies’ bottom. Of course Corian doesn’t have fibers so it doesn’t ‘tear' as such, but I wanted to see if I could feel the equivalent chipping. I ran my finger lightly along the edge and ended up slicing into it pretty good. That edge was razor-sharp! Good thing I had a First Aid Systainer handy…

[big grin]

I’ve not yet used my Fine 52-Tooth Saw Blade (495381).  The default 36-tooth blade that comes with the saw is so good I’ve not been compelled to try it on anything yet. When I do, I’m sure the cut will be equally amazing.

BTW, I *love* my table saw and would never willingly give it up. I'm just making a case that for some things a Track Saw is clearly the better choice.

Hope this helps!

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I make sure I can rip, join and plane 16' stock.  Mostly due to exterior trim. 

Sometimes I wish I could work with material 10 feet an under all the time.

 

[smartcarpie]

Wow-

you make some good points.  There are other ways to skin this cat though.  In lieu of needing a straight guide board to allow ripping an accurate first edge, I have watched carpenters use a master straight edge (yes, you do need to make that first, and it's good to have one on hand), even a piece of aluminum stock will do.  You just slide the edge of the sheet out a bit, clamp on the straight edge and run a flush trim router bit down to get a perfect first edge.  Then on to the table saw.

I have never used infeed on a table saw.  I am the infeed supports.  Use a panel lift to move sheet vertically with perfect edge down, set on front of saw and lower so nose of sheet is resting on the table.  Just pick up the back end of the sheet and start walking. 

I am only 5'10, 160 lbs and Have been fine ripping MDF 4x8, 9' ply too.  Yes it's a bit of work but once you figure it out the strain is minimal and you can process a lot of sheets fairly fast.  A power feeder is another great tool for those lucky enough to have one.  I have only owned Board Buddy guides but I'll be looking for a feeder soon for my shaper.

But the space needed cannot be argued with.  My saw is dead center on a 40' wall, as I work with a lot of 16, 18, occasionally 20' material.  I'm happy to have the space, but realize not everyone has that luxury, although with a modern garage bay most should be fine for cutting sheets.

I use both methods (track v table saw) at different times depending on mood, other set ups, stuff in the way, etc.  I will say that I find ripping a 4' sheet in half is hard on my back reaching in the two feet to push the track saw.  I can't see laying the sheet on the floor and kneeling on it to cut unless on a job in a pinch, as I have to do enough crawling around otherwise, so I'd rather stand and work like an evolved being

I wouldn't give up wither but if I had to the track saw would probably go as I can fins other ways to perform its tasks and did prior to owning one, but I haven't figured out a reliable way to eliminate what the table saw can do for me.  To each their own.

 

[wow]

you make some good points.  There are other ways to skin this cat though. 

I wouldn't give up wither but if I had to the track saw would probably go as I can fins other ways to perform its tasks and did prior to owning one, but I haven't figured out a reliable way to eliminate what the table saw can do for me.  To each their own.

Yeah, there are always other ways to do things. Technically you don't even need a saw - you can do everything we are talking about with only a router. It would be awkward, slow, and inefficient - but you could do it. Heck, I HAVE done it. When I started woodworking after stepping off the Mayflower [wink] I only had a router and a circular saw and a drill. I made some halfway decent and functional office furniture with those tools. Nothing I would be proud of now, but I was proud of it then.

Like I said, I love my table saw and wouldn't willingly give it up. Also, like you, if I were forced to choose only one it would be a very difficult decision. I *think* I would probably opt for the table saw because I do more work with solid wood than with sheet goods.

But I'd hate to have to give up my TS75.  [scared]