TS 55 Anti-tip

[Michael Kellough]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member] , flipping the edge guide over does work on my saw.  The offset of the rods into the guide changes things.  This accessory is not for me - but might be for others.
Peter

Thanks, Peter for the photos. I'm confused now, so there's no gap with some of the saws such as yours, though there's one on Millard's as shown in his video? Based on his video, I thought that gap was a universal issue with the TS55/edge guide.

The guide in the video is clearly different from the Festool guide. I think its Bosch.

Not Bosch

Mafell looks the similar except it has increments on one of the rods. Hard to find pic of MT55 specific guide. They have different sizes for the different size saws and pictures used are generic to function rather than model.

 

[Cheese]

Could the action of sliding the aluminum anti-tip over the workpiece leave some markings on the wood? Isn't that a problem with bare aluminum. A thin strip of self-stick UHMW plastic tape fixed to the underside would solve this and also reduce friction.

Yes it could, I hope the final product is hard anodized. Even if it's hard anodized though, after enough use the anodizing will wear away. Would have been better to use a short section of the Festool glide strip, 491741 on the bottom.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I have read that many of the Mafell track saws cut below the splinter guard when tilted to 45 degrees. The TS75 does too. The solution posted here a decade ago was to add a plastic shim of credit card thickness between the base plate and the trunnions/mount.

If a Mafell saw does cut below the splinter guard, and the aluminum on aluminum sliding motion of the saw on the track is annoying, maybe add some Festool glide strip (or similar of the appropriate thickness) to the Mafell rail? Would the guide spine still be sufficiently engaged in the saw’s groove?

 

[Cheese]

I have read that many of the Mafell track saws cut below the splinter guard when tilted to 45 degrees. The TS75 does too. The solution posted here a decade ago was to add a plastic shim of credit card thickness between the base plate and the trunnions/mount.

If a Mafell saw does cut below the splinter guard, and the aluminum on aluminum sliding motion of the saw on the track is annoying, maybe add some Festool glide strip (or similar of the appropriate thickness) to the Mafell rail? Would the guide spine still be sufficiently engaged in the saw’s groove?

Michael, here's a shot of the MT 55 on a Festool rail.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Svar]

Michael, here's a shot of the MT 55 on a Festool rail.

How about same on Mafell rail?

 

[Svar]

Not Bosch
Mafell looks the similar except it has increments on one of the rods. Hard to find pic of MT55 specific guide. They have different sizes for the different size saws and pictures used are generic to function rather than model.

You are correct. Now I suspect that on 2nd photo, which Peter H. posted the saw does not sit flat on the rail (slightly lifted) when the guide is inverted.

 

[Doug S]

Mine certainly doesn't sit flat on the rail.

[attachimg=1]

 

[ChuckM]

So all along, Millard's idea was to bridge that gap, which I think for precision work is essential. For miter cuts, especially in casework, even a small degree of precision matters. 

 

[Michael Kellough]

The main idea in the video is to take out the wobble. There is flex in the grip strips on the bottom of the rail. Often, even the saw base can tilt back and forth a little on the rail. Not to mention the inconsistent way some people guide the saw, as demonstrated by the presenter when he dipped his head around to look at the cut and even stopped midway and started again.

As wrong as it looks, the setup in Doug S’s photo can be made to work very reliably, just set the bevel for a few degrees less than 45. Then test the actual cut piece and adjust.

With practice you don’t need these training wheels but if you seldom cut bevels it might be beneficial to use an outrigger.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.

As wrong as it looks, the setup in Doug S’s photo can be made to work very reliably, just set the bevel for a few degrees less than 45. Then test the actual cut piece and adjust.

We all work differently, but that'd be the last approach I'd take when making precision cuts, relying on trial and error. In fact, I was so fed up with my trial and error cuts (90* or 45* or 22.5* or whatever it was) on my previous table saw that I invested in a SawStop cabinet saw once and for all. I prefer knowing that every cut I make is dead-on at the angle I want rather than a hit-or-miss thing. Not only time but also material is wasted in every trial cut and reset...until one gets it right.

 

[grobkuschelig]

Mine certainly doesn't sit flat on the rail.

[attachimg=1]

The idea would be to flip the fence on its head so that the parallel-Guide part is not touching the table.

But I am not sure if this makes the fence the same height as the saw with or without guiderail...
Would need to check myself, but am not near the shop.

 

[Doug S]

The idea would be to flip the fence on its head so that the parallel-Guide part is not touching the table.

But I am not sure if this makes the fence the same height as the saw with or without guiderail...
Would need to check myself, but am not near the shop.

That makes it the same height as saw without guiderail.

 

[Cheese]

How about same on Mafell rail?

Here you go [member=15585]Svar[/member]

[attachimg=1]

 

[peter halle]

I heard back from someone at Festool.  It appears that now utilizing the parallel edge guide as I have done seems to cause the saw base to rise a few mm.  I suspect that redesigns of tools and accessories account for the changes from the past.  I only posted previously based on what I learned at multiple training classes and also based on my personal experiences.  I guess that I am lucky in that my setup works.  Again, check your setup and see if it flat.  If you see the need for an accessory, buy it.

Peter

 

[Lincoln]

Even though Peter shows this accessory on his channel, it's not his - as he clearly points out in the video. (Checkout the 'Bisch Basch Bosch' channel, he's the creator)
Looks like a great, simple idea, will grab one for my MT55 once he starts shipping internationally.

 

[mrboult]

How about same on Mafell rail?

Here you go [member=15585]Svar[/member]

[attachimg=1]

On my metabo rails (v similar to the Mafell splinter strip) the splinter guard/strip is floppy unless under pressure on the surface, where it resumes it’s consistent position. Looks like the Mafell is the same from your photo.

Is that the reason the saw blade is so far from the splinter guard/strip? If the Mafell truly doesn’t align to the rail cutting line at 45* then I am shocked at all the comments of it being so superior to the festool. That would be bull!

 

[Svar]

If the Mafell truly doesn’t align to the rail cutting line at 45* then I am shocked at all the content of it being so superior to the festool. That would be bull!

No, Mafell does not align at 45 deg. by couple mm. This is a well known issue. Still great saw, but nothing is perfect.

 

[mrboult]

If the Mafell truly doesn’t align to the rail cutting line at 45* then I am shocked at all the content of it being so superior to the festool. That would be bull!

No, Mafell does not align at 45 deg. by couple mm. This is a well known issue. Still great saw, but nothing is perfect.

WOW. Thanks for sharing that!

 

[AlexR]

Hi All. Here my solution I posted a few years ago.  Hope pictures show up.https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...ments/ts-rail-levitation/msg272221/#msg272221

Edit: I still not got round to making mk2, mk1 still in regular use. Does solve saw tipping when doing 45' cuts.

 

[Roachmill]

Hi All. Here my solution I posted a few years ago.  Hope pictures show up.https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...ments/ts-rail-levitation/msg272221/#msg272221

Edit: I still not got round to making mk2, mk1 still in regular use. Does solve saw tipping when doing 45' cuts.

That's a neat solution using the accessory slot. The [member=61691]TSO_Products[/member] rail / PGS connectors, with their slot shaped profile, could possibly be a good starting point for rustling up something similar. I like how there's nothing hanging over the edge of the rail as there's always that time when something gets in the way. I guess the downside is it won't work when you have joined rails or some other accessory using the slot.