TS 55 Blades

[lambeater]

Hi guys just trying to figure out what blades to keep on hand for my saw. I know the panther is probably top of my list. Is it possible to put a small shim/spacer behind the blade to stop it taking off the extra bit of anti splitter from the rail? Also when cutting melamine is the factory blade good enough to have no chipout or should I purchase a melamine blade.
thx
Lambeater

 

[Brice Burrell]

I know some guys have discussed shimming blades. I would mess about with shims I'd just buy the Tenryu rip blade. It has the same width kerf as the stock blade, all of the Tenryu blades do. Festool supposedly changed their blades to have all the same width kerfs now too. Finding one of the new blades with the right kerf will be the trick.

I like the stock blade for melamine. 

 

[jvsteenb]

There's a lot of sellers offering the "old" Panther blade for a relatively small price. "Way to go, an original Festool blade on the cheap!" one thinks and is easily persuaded to buy one.

Don't.

I have one of the old Panther blades for my TS55, for use in my CMS setup. It rips quite a bit easier than the fine-tooth W48 blade, but the quality of the cut is nowhere near Festool standard.
Don't even think of using it with a guiderail as you'll ruin your splinterstrip.

The new Panther blade is said to be better, and at least shares the kerf-width with the other blades. The geometry is said to be different, so maybe the quality of the cut is way better - then again, it has even less teeth ( 12 vs 14 for the "old" Panther blade ) so I'm not so certain beforehand.

The universal blade OTOH rips hardwoods almost as easy, and delivers a nice, clean cut - if you're careful and don't burn or burnish the cut, it's glue-ready right of the saw.

Just my two Eurocents...

Regards,

Job

 

[Jesse Cloud]

I'm with Brice on this one, the stock blade works great for melamine.  I have no trouble ripping on the stock blade, and I have ripped some thick, hard stuff.  I have held off on the Panther, might try one when the new version is available here.

It's interesting.  Most sawmakers pack a crappy blade with a new saw.  Festool puts a quality blade on their saws.  I have had that experience with both the TS55 and the Kapex. 

So, my two cents worth would be to try the stock blade before you buy other blades. 

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

get a 24t tenryu to go with the 48t factory blade.

 

[jonny round boy]

The stock blade, in conjunction with the guide rail strip, is fine for cutting melamine. Just make sure neither the blade or the splinter strip are too worn.

As for the panther blade - I have one of the 'old' panthers, and I've only ever used it once. It's just (IMO) far too agressive, and virtually destroyed the splinter strip.

 

[jvsteenb]

.... I have no trouble ripping on the stock blade, and I have ripped some thick, hard stuff....

I agree, the standard blade is up to more than you might think. But ripping at an angle ( especially in a CMS setup, it's tilting left so the stock wants to ride upwards ) brings out the setbacks of such a nice finetoothed crosscut blade.
Ripping 1-1/4" solid oak at 45 degrees is perfectly doable with a little patience and the universal blade, but bound to give you a headache or a burnished cut with the W48 blade.

Regards,

Job

 

[Hoover]

Anyone have a good source for the Tenryu blades?

I've had no problem ripping with the stock blade.  Ripped some 8/4 mahogany and it cut clean and with no problem at all.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

For everyone:  http://www.tenryu.com/distributor_search.htm

 

[lambeater]

Thanks for the info guys, I guess Ill keep away from the panther blades. Sounds like my 48T blade will work, Also the 28T blade seems a good choice for glue line ripping.
Lambeater

 

[terrystouf]

Is it possible to put a small shim/spacer behind the blade to stop it taking off the extra bit of anti splitter from the rail

  The difference between 2.5mm and 2.2 mm , .3mm , is .0118" ,half of that is what you would have to shim ,about .006".A piece of foil tape is just about perfect.i cut a circle just bigger than the saw side washer,stuck it on, cut out the hole,and good enough  (within 1 or 2 thousandths of an inch),its stuck on so your done,but you will have to swap out the green splinter guard, just label one for that blade.Worked for me.