TS 55 depth Gauge

[jmbfestool]

Why does the TS 55 not allow for the guide rail  you always have to add the guide rail thickness on top of the thickness of wood. Mafel have gone on step further and made it so you can set the depth with the quide rail and with out the guide rail with a twist of the knob.  I love festool and I know they always think about everything but why have they done this?  Because your not suppose to use the TS55 with out the guide rail so basically the depth scale is always 5mm out.

 

[harry_]

Because your not suppose to use the TS55 with out the guide rail so basically the depth scale is always 5mm out.

You would be off the guide rail if you were using this.

I do like and agree to the idea of the saws having a knob or whatever for +/- 5mm. However I have long since gotten in the +5 habit.

 

[jmbfestool]

[/quote]
You would be off the guide rail if you were using this.

I do like and agree to the idea of the saws having a knob or whatever for +/- 5mm. However I have long since gotten in the +5 habit.
[/quote]

True! True! I forgot about the accessories.

but you dont use that alot id rather -5 mm when I came to use that accessory.

 

[greg mann]

It is so easy to set the depth by plunging off the edge and looking that I seldom even look at the scale. Seems to me that having the scale compensate for the rail would invite setting it too deep on the odd occasion you use it off-rail. The same if you had a switchable scale ala Mafell. Forget which mode you are in and you cut too deep. Lastly, adding 5 to another number should be within the grasp of any of us. Sorry if any of this offends anyone, but I think Festool picked the safest scenario.

 

[Deansocial]

i agree that the scale is wrong, i also think the saw itself is due a replacement as i think it is no longer at the top of its game so to speak.

 

[jmbfestool]

i agree that the scale is wrong, i also think the saw itself is due a replacement as i think it is no longer at the top of its game so to speak.

Yeah the MAfel   has 9  extra  features

1. The one we are discussing now  Depth gauge. +- 5mm

2(+2). It can do  45 degree cut like festool but  it can do 48 degree and  1 degree other way for work tops and other things. Front back lock at set angles.

3. It can be used on festool guide and its own guide rails.

4. easier blade removal

5. The rail can be attached to the extractor for creating suction

6. improved dust extraction

7. Offset switch set the blade .5 mm and 3 mm deep cut to give a better splinter free surface.

and few more

Now festool TS55 is  pretty out dated  really to be fair!

 

[Frank-Jan]

The mafell mt55c also has some cool scales on the sides that mark where the sawblade cuts at different blade depths.

BUT, it doesn't have a riving knife, doesn't use the plugit cable, and I already have a ts55 which I still like plenty.

If  Mafell's regular circular saws would use the festool-track, the ones which have a blade guard and can be set to fixed depth, but can also be used for plunge cuts with the springloaded riving knife; than I wouldn't have gotten my protool csp68 but a mafell version. (providing they have a version which cuts deeper than 40mm at an almost reasonable price, I haven't checked)

 

[Deansocial]

The mafell mt55c also has some cool scales on the sides that mark where the sawblade cuts at different blade depths.

BUT, it doesn't have a riving knife, doesn't use the plugit cable, and I already have a ts55 which I still like plenty.

If  Mafell's regular circular saws would use the festool-track, the ones which have a blade guard and can be set to fixed depth, but can also be used for plunge cuts with the springloaded riving knife; than I wouldn't have gotten my protool csp68 but a mafell version. (providing they have a version which cuts deeper than 40mm at an almost reasonable price, I haven't checked)

is this enough depth  http://www.mafell.de/produktkatalog/index.php?ID_O_PRODUCT=5095&sLanguage=English

i have taken riving knifes off my other saws as i think they are not needed in the applications i use them.

 

[jmbfestool]

I do like the riving knife on my the festool.  but I dont think its a must!

My makita and my milwuakee  circular saw dont have a riving knife  the Milwueakee didnt even come with one and my makita i removed it because it was slightly of set from the blade so it would get cought so i removed it.  My portable table saw I have grinded the knife down alot  its still their just way below the blade so I can do rebates. 

JMB

 

[Inner10]

I'm no carpenter but I don't have a riving knife on any saw.  It is really necessary?  If the piece you are cutting is properly supported what would cause the cut to close in on the blade?  Is there some other purpose for it that I don't know of?

 

[woodguy7]

I lot of solid timbers are under tension & when cut they will either open apart or close tight together.  With no riving knife you are bound to get kick back.  I have seen it happen to many times & would never consider using a hand held or bench mounted circular saw without one.  When i was a 1st year apprentice my foreman was ripping a hardwood batten on his own.  He pushed it half way through then went round the back to pull the other half through, no riving knife & the wood closed tight on the back of the blade.  The saw pulled the wood back at such a force that before he could let go his hand went through the blade.  He lost a pinkie & the side of his hand that day.  Just because someone never put the riving knife back on.

That is what riving knifes are there for  [eek]

Woodguy

 

[Deansocial]

thats why i said in the applications i use them in. man made boards and plunging in the middle of a workpiece is not going to trap the blade. Other than that i use my normal circ for cross cutting so the blade is finishing the cut just as the riving knife would be entering

 

[AlexThePalex]

I'm no carpenter but I don't have a riving knife on any saw.  It is really necessary?  If the piece you are cutting is properly supported what would cause the cut to close in on the blade?  Is there some other purpose for it that I don't know of?

I have never used a saw without a riving knife. After 15 years of using them, I didn't know what kickback was until I read about it here on this forum. I read a lot about it here, always from Americans who seem to experience it so now and then. I never experienced even one single incident, so the riving knife must be good for something.

 

[Inner10]

I lot of solid timbers are under tension & when cut they will either open apart or close tight together.  With no riving knife you are bound to get kick back.  I have seen it happen to many times & would never consider using a hand held or bench mounted circular saw without one.  When i was a 1st year apprentice my foreman was ripping a hardwood batten on his own.  He pushed it half way through then went round the back to pull the other half through, no riving knife & the wood closed tight on the back of the blade.  The saw pulled the wood back at such a force that before he could let go his hand went through the blade.  He lost a pinkie & the side of his hand that day.  Just because someone never put the riving knife back on.

I'm trying to picture this, was he feeding it freehand into a table saw without a riving knife, then went around to the back of the saw to pull it through instead of feeding it through?  Excellent point about the tension in side the wood.

I read a lot about it here, always from Americans who seem to experience it so now and then. I never experienced even one single incident, so the riving knife must be good for something.

Alex, it happens all the time on jobsite when framers are sawing wood that is not supported properly,  or when cutting out framing members that are under stress and the blade becomes pinched. 

 

[Deansocial]

plus in the uk we don't get as much kick back as our saws dont have as much grunt as worm drives etc. I use a 9" bosch and it has jammed on me but the blade has just stalled but i am always prepared for that as you can hear and feel if there is tension as you get in to the cut

 

[woodguy7]

Inner10

Yes you have it.  The table top was approx 1m long & the batton about 3m.  If you try & feed that all the way from the front it will tip down so when it is at the centre you have to go round the back & pull it through.  Scary how fast it happened but these things usually are.

Woodguy.

 

[jmbfestool]

I lot of solid timbers are under tension & when cut they will either open apart or close tight together.  With no riving knife you are bound to get kick back.  I have seen it happen to many times & would never consider using a hand held or bench mounted circular saw without one.  When i was a 1st year apprentice my foreman was ripping a hardwood batten on his own.  He pushed it half way through then went round the back to pull the other half through, no riving knife & the wood closed tight on the back of the blade.  The saw pulled the wood back at such a force that before he could let go his hand went through the blade.  He lost a pinkie & the side of his hand that day.  Just because someone never put the riving knife back on.

That is what riving knifes are there for  [eek]

Woodguy

I know what they are their for but  cutting sheet material it doesnt happen  and  your telling me your not stronger than a hand held circular saw because when mine binds the blade just stops. Well I have had no ridding knife  for 5 years now on all my tools and never had any fingers lost.

 

[jmbfestool]

Inner10

Yes you have it.  The table top was approx 1m long & the batton about 3m.  If you try & feed that all the way from the front it will tip down so when it is at the centre you have to go round the back & pull it through.  Scary how fast it happened but these things usually are.

Woodguy.

Your talking about big machinery tools I agree you need a riving knife for them but a portable  bench saw or a normal hand held saw you do not need them as they get in the way their just aint the power you can hold the wood and it will jam  and the blade will stop so quickly move the wood or the saw to get the blade going so you dont burn your motor out.

 

[Nigel]

      Some riving knives are a pain,I have a Hitachi and the knife isn't in line with the blade so it catches!I mean if you put one on line it up with the blade please!! On the Festool saws the knife is perfectly aligned and never gets in the way.I wouldn't cut solid wood without because I don't want the saw jumping about if the blade pinches and not only that but Festool blades are not cheap,why risk pinching it in a cut.Manmade boards are  different .

 

[Brandon]

Has anyone offered a replacement sticker, maybe, that would be placed over the existing one on the ts55 that would account for the rail thickness? I'd really like to see one that is in inches as well. Seems pretty simple to make a strip of sticker that could be placed over the top of the existing measurements