TS 55 EQ Plus - Bevel cutting adjustment on track?

Tomfoolery

Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2012
Messages
11
Well - I took the plunge (so to speak) and started my Festool ownership with a TS 55 EQ + CT 36 e

My question is how do I adjust the saw so a bevel cut is in-line with a straight cut?

When i clamp my guide to a workpiece and have the saw set to 0 degrees - make a cut and then set the saw to 45 degrees and make a plunge cut shorter than the previous cut the top edge of the workpiece is not lined up.

The bevel cut seems to have the top edge 1-3mm closer to the saw.  It is visibly noticeable.

Any ideas?

Thank you all in advance!
-Tom
 
Welcome,
Go to Bob Marino's Festool site and on the left side click on Tips and Tricks and print the TS55 Guide from Rick,

Best,
Frank
 
The cut edge on the rail side, should line up, The cut edge on the saw side can't possible line up, Per previous response, this is clearly indicated in the guide referred to on page 7 under "single point of entry.
 
I read page 7:
"Single point entry means that the sawblade always enters the cut at the same location regardless what the bevel angle is set to. The pivot point of the bevel adjustment is located at the bottom edge of the splinter guard. This means that the cut will always be along the splinter guard for any bevel setting.
(Note that this is applicable only when the guide rail is used. When the guide rail is not under the saw, the bevel cut will move slightly outward, away from the main body of the saw.)"

and what is happening in my case is that when I cut a bevel cut the right side of the blade (looking at the picture) is moving right (toward the saw).

The two cuts do not line up on the once side of the blade.

I am just trying to reproduce the cut shown in the the picture and I can't.

Thoughts?

 
Update:
I took the saw back to the dealer - they setup everything to try and duplicate the problem i was having.

In their location the saw performed as expected - If I am wrong about something I will admit it.

One "trick" they used when changing the bevel on the saw was to remove it first from the track - this is something I did not do.

Apparently whenever I adjusted the bevel on the saw there was enought lateral force to move the track even though it was clamped.

I learned something about the "system" and really appreciate the time the dealer took to help set me straight.

Thank you all for your patience with a newbie!
 
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