TS 55 Guide Rail Selection

[KMorley]

I am going to buy a new TS 55 in the next few days and I need some recommendations on guide rails.

I am a hobbyist who occaisionally builds cabinets.  The cabinet carcasses are furniture grade plywood, so I frequently have to beak down 4 x 8 panels which is an ideal use for the TS 55.

I would normally cut the panels across the 48-in width first to break them to a manageable size and then cut the carcass end pieces from these.  I'm sure that the the stock 55-in rail that ships with the TS 55 will be fine for these 48-in max cross cuts.

Occaisionaly, I may have to rip all the way down the length of a panel and I'm wondering what rails would be best for that.  I could just buy the 106-in rail, but that's expensive, hard to store and I would only need it occasionally.  So I'm leaning more towards getting a second rail (either 42 or 55-in) and joining it to the main 55-in rail for those occaisional long cuts.

What is the minimum rail length needed to make a 96-in cut without having to freehand the last few inches?  Would a 55 + 42 = 97-in rail be long enough?  Would I be better off with two 55-in rails?

Also, I notice that the rails with the LR32 hole system are roughly the same price as the rails without the holes.  I can see the LR32 and the OF 1400 router being useful for placing holes for shelves inside these cabinets.  Is there any downside to using the rails with the LR32 hole system with the TS 55?  If not, why doesn't Festool just make the LR32 holes standard on all new rails?

As always, many thanks for your opinions!  I've learned a LOT from this forum!

Ken Morley
Tampa, Florida

 

[Brice Burrell]

Ken, this is a fairly common question. You'll need at least a second 55" rail to make a cut in a full 8' sheet of plywood. I say at least because I like using the 75" rail for crosscutting sheet goods. This gives me plenty of extra room on the rail to start and finish the cut where the 55" rail there is just enough length, The extra length of the 55/75 joined is nice for long rips too. So, I'd recommend a 55" (one come with the saw) and a 75". This is only a recommendation for more convenience, two 55" rails will work. Remember you'll need to buy two guide rail connectors to join rails. 

 

[Dan Clark]

Ken,

+1 for Brice's suggestion. With a TS55 you need a few inches of overhang on either end to rip a 4X8 ply without moving the rail (and maybe messing up your cut).    The 55" + 42" rail is not long enough.  The 75" + 55" rails is the better option, giving you more flexibility. 

I took the 55" + 55" approach to rip ply for the first 18 months or so.  Yes, it does work.  However, joining and aligning the rails was a big hassle for me.  Each person has their own tolerance level for this.  Mine is low.

I broke down and bought the 118".  It's a hassle to store and less portable, but overall I'm much happier with it.    I know the rail will give a perfectly straight cut with no chance of the rail becoming misaligned.  For example, the cut in the pic below was trivial.

Good luck with your choice.

Regards,

Dan.

 

[Wood_Junkie]

I join two 55" rails together to cut full length sheet goods.  It's a hassle, sure.  But it's a 2 minute hassle.

Through some clever and some frivolous purchases I've now got a surplus of rails.  So I use a 1080 (42") rail to align the 55s, and tightening the connector rods only takes a few second.  The only drawback to this and a single extra long rail is in the handling of it.  You do have be a bit more gentle and support both of the rails, as well as not twist/turn it suddenly and torque the connection point.  You don't have to baby it, but also not swing it around like a monkey.

I just recently got the 55" LR32 rail, and it works exactly the same with the TS saws.  While it is a wise, forward looking thing to get the LR32 rails, keep in mind you'd have to invest a *minimum* of nearly $500 to use the hole drilling system (OF1010 and the hole drilling plate only).  More than likely, if you are still forward looking, you'll wind up spending closer to $700 for an OF1400 and the hole drilling set (non-Systainer'd version...)  Some expensive cabinet holes.  (I've still got buyer's remorse)...

 

[ScotF]

+1 for Brice's recommendation too.  I just bought the small 32 inch rail too for short cross-cuts.  I use a TS75 and I think that the smaller rail is going to be just the ticket for short cross-cuts.  I found the 55 inch rail a bit hard to control on smaller work pieces.  Plywood is no problem, but I cut a lot of solid wood that is less than 16 inches wide.

Scot

 

[Rob-GB]

Pretty much as posted above. Two 1400mm/55 inch, connector bars stay located in one, then an 800mm/32 inch one for short cuts and to align the other two with. The short one I bought after using a 1400mm one to trim a prefinished maple newel post to length, cut from opposite side full depth of cut and not a chip in the finish to be seen. ;D
If you get two 1400's get the second one with the holes in so you have that option available later on, I wish I had [sad] even though I'm not likely to make any cabinets in the near future.
Rob.

 

[Hoover]

I have the TS and two 55"ers.  I like that set up because I can take it somewhere easily.  I might some day get a 118" track just so I have a long one and a smaller set up.  Check out the makita track.  I like the festool saw better than the makita but the track is basically the same except the makita has an extra area of aluminum for their anti tip feature.  The makita track will work exactly the same as the festool for the TS and for most other festool tools. 

For shelf pin boring, make your own out of plywood, lexan/plexiglass (1/4" thick) or aluminum, etc and use any router http://megproducts.com/  Very fast, very clean holes and the cost is basically nothing.

http://www.acetoolonline.com/Makita-194367-7-117-Guide-Rail-p/mak-194367-7.htm

 

[KMorley]

As always, I get a lot of great information from this forum.  Thanks everyone!

To summarize:

1) The 55" rail is the practical minimum for crosscutting 4x8 panels and some prefer the 75" rail for that task;

2) You can join two rails for ripping 4x8 panels, but it's a little bit of a hassle and not that economical since you need two rail connectors and a third rail for alignment;

3) The 106" rail accomodates a 96" cut and could be more useful than the 55" or 75" rail for plenty of shorter cuts - it would offer some utility for cuts in the 72" range where the 75" rail would not quite be long enough;

4) There is no downside to using LR32 rails with a TS55, although the LR32 system, plate and router add up to a really significant investment - there are probably more cost effective ways of line drilling shelf holes.

I'll have to give this some more thought...

Thanks again for all of the suggestions!

 

[GPowers]

I just order a 118" guide rail  this last Tues for breaking down large sheet goods. So now I have the 42" on the MFT/3 the 55" that came with the TS55 saw and the new 118". Looking back I should have upgraded to a longer guide rail when I purchased the TS55 saw.  Would have been nice to have the 75" Vs the 55".

 

[Jonhilgen]

Personally I think two 55" rails joined work great for breaking down sheet goods.  But since I travel with my rails a lot on cabinet installs, I think having a 118" rail is too much of a hassle to transport.  Also, I don't have any problems with the rail moving around on me on the long rips either, usually since I clamp them and/or use home-baked parallel guides.

The 55" rail is just fine for cross-cutting 48" sheet goods as well.  Not only that, but if you tend to rip your plywood first, then cross-cut, you'll never even think about grabbing the 75" rail to cross cut a 24" rip (or a 12" rip for that matter).  It's 20" more rail that you have hanging around at the end of a cut.  You will always grab the shorter rail to accomplish these cuts.

Also, I would really recommend the cross-cutting jig that Qwas just came out with.  I have been using it extensively for the past couple of weeks and it has made cross-cutting much more efficient.  I no longer have the desire to purchase an MFT/3 since I've purchased this jig (and it's only 10% of the cost).

Jon

 

[Wood_Junkie]

2) You can join two rails for ripping 4x8 panels, but it's a little bit of a hassle and not that economical since you need two rail connectors and a third rail for alignment;

>> You don't need a third rail.  Plenty of people use a 48" level or some other straight edge.  Another rail is just convenient (same thickness, in the rail bag, etc)

4) There is no downside to using LR32 rails with a TS55, although the LR32 system, plate and router add up to a really significant investment - there are probably more cost effective ways of line drilling shelf holes.

>> Here are several.  None are quite as robust as the LR32 for long stretches and simplicity *once setup*.
http://www.woodpeck.com/shelfpinjig.html

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=42200&cat=3,44296

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5876&filter=shelf%20pin

 

[GPowers]

Jon

I'm not mobile so storing the 118" guide rail is not a problem. I was going for convince over mobility.

Wood_Junkie

I have used the Roclker Shelving Jig, on a small project, and it worked out great.  Not sure I would want to do an entire kitchen project with it. But at around 25 dollars it is A-OK for my small project vs 425 dollars, just for the LR 32 HOLE DRILLING SET IN SYSTAINER.  Assuming you have the rail with holes and the router.

 

[BT50]

I have two of the 1400 rails at the moment which were purchased separately by about 4 months. The first one had the black splinter guard and the second was with the newer clear type. I have found that when the TS55 is set up on the first one (black) the saw feels tight when running over the second one. It seems that they are minutely different in size and it is hard to get a good medium between the two for that perfect slide and accuracy. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue?...........
After using the 2 X 1400 rails for about 6 months now, I wish I had bought a 1700 for my second one. It might just be me, but I find the 1400 rail just that bit short to cut across a 4' sheet and the extra length when joined together would be great. I like to have room to spare!!!!!! The only issue with this scenario is that the longer one won't fit in the tote bag.  [mad] So I am looking into getting the 800 rail now and my wife is rolling her eyes as she is reading. At least IT will fit in the bag dear. 

 

[Jonhilgen]

Jon

I'm not mobile so storing the 118" guide rail is not a problem. I was going for convince over mobility.

Wood_Junkie

I have used the Roclker Shelving Jig, on a small project, and it worked out great.  Not sure I would want to do an entire kitchen project with it. But at around 25 dollars it is A-OK for my small project vs 425 dollars, just for the LR 32 HOLE DRILLING SET IN SYSTAINER.  Assuming you have the rail with holes and the router.

GPowers,

I have wished many a time that I could just have a long dedicated rail, but it just isn't in the cards.  Every time I'm ready to pull the trigger on one, I think to myself "that money could go to a domino...or a 1010...or a trion"  Someday, I'll have too many rails to choose from!  (I can't wait  8))

As far as shelving/line boring jigs, check out one that Mcfeely's sells.  I got the same model from Hafele and I am really pleased about the 100.00 investment.  It's quick to use, fairly accurate, and the best part is that it is affordable.  There is no "set-up" time, so the time it takes to drill the holes by hand is more than made up due to that fact (IMHO).  If I had any techy abilities, I would attach a link to it.

Jon

 

[peter halle]

Jon,

Is this the one you are talking about?

[attachimg=#]

Peter

 

[Jonhilgen]

That's the one.

 

[fatroman]

Woodpeckers has a shelf pin jig coming out soon. Just got an email about it tonight.

http://www.woodpeck.com/shelfpinjig.html

 

[CList]

FWIW, you really don't HAVE to get the full LR-32 system + Festool router to use the LR-32 rails and hole-drill guide plate... and for that reason I'd recommend spending extra $5 or so for the guide rail with the holes if it comes in the size you need.

I was recently in a similar predicament to you, having gotten a TS-75 and wanting a second rail - of course in my case I wanted a shorter rail section not a longer one!

I was also without a Festool router. I knew I was eventually going to move towards the LR-32, but figured I'd do it piecemeal and see if I couldn't get the guide rail to work with my Bosch plunge router. I based my decision mainly on the fact that having watched the videos of the full LR-32 kit in action, I knew I could make a lot of the parts, and I don't really care whether or not I have systainers for every piece of gear I own. I decided to get the 55" rail with holes (since I wanted it for my saw anyway), and JUST the LR-32 guide plate, and if I couldn't get it to work with my existing router, then I get an OF1400 when I really needed it, and relegate my Bosch to router-table duty.

If you don't have any rail clamps, and you REALLY want the systainer shaped to fit, the "LR32 Kit in Systainer" might be worth the cost, but to me, as a hobbyist who already has 4 rail clamps, spending $425 is just not worth it when you can get the Guide Plate + centering mandrel by itself: http://www.festoolusa.com/products/routers/hole-drilling-system/lr-32-guide-plate-494340.html for $104, and make a couple of story sticks and stop blocks to get all the same functionality as the complete kit.

Sure enough, with about 20 minutes of rework of both my router base plate and the LR-32 guide plate, I was able to get my router to fit perfectly on it (DISCLAIMER: do this at your own risk! mine is rock solid, and centers perfectly every time, but I have a drill press - trying to mod this stuff with a hand drill may result in mis-alignment!). I got a Bosch 8mm collet for about $10 (required for the centering mandrel). I also removed the spring from the plunge-release leaver so the router could move up and down freely / one-handedly like the Festool.

I just used it for the first time the other day and it worked like a charm --- just like in the videos! If you figure that I was going to get a guide rail for my saw anyway, then I effectively got a working LR-32 system for $114 and about an hour of time modding the bases and making story sticks. (of course I had a very nice router to begin with).

Not saying you should hack your way into a DIY LR-32 as I did (and I may STILL get the OF-1400 when I have some spare cash as it looks beautiful) but if you're going to get a rail, you might as well get one that you can eventually build into an LR-32.

Cheers,
CList

 

[iandoug]

As a home hobbyist I have taken the plunge and purchased a 3 metre guide rail and it has paid off IMO.  Cutting down 1200 x 2400 sheet material accurately is no longer a challenge using a guide rail and either the T55 or the T75 and setting out using Incra rulers.  I use a Walko 4 work bench laid flat and cut my sheet materials on it using the guide rail and plunge saw.  It is satisfying to end up with an offcut (after ripping lengthways) that is actually square.  I agree that you must allow for room for the saw at the start and end of the guide rail and that is why I chose the 3 metre rail for cutting sheet materials lengthways.

 

[Wood_Junkie]

If you don't have any rail clamps, and you REALLY want the systainer shaped to fit, the "LR32 Kit in Systainer" might be worth the cost, but to me, as a hobbyist who already has 4 rail clamps, spending $425 is just not worth it when you can get the Guide Plate + centering mandrel by itself

There is also an in-between kit, which has the guide plate, centering mandrel, and the stop arms, for $205US: 
http://www.festoolusa.com/products/routers/hole-drilling-system/lr-32-hole-drilling-set-583290.html  
You can buy the Systainer insert alone for about $9.

Sure enough, with about 20 minutes of rework of both my router base plate and the LR-32 guide plate, I was able to get my router to fit perfectly on it

This is good news.  I tried to do the same with my DeWalt 618 bases, but what I found was that using the Festool screw holes on the Guide Plate was not an option, due to the 'webbing' casting of the DeWalt base... there wasn't anything to attach to!  So I drilled holes in the Guide Plate to match he location of the screw holes on the DeWalt base.  Great, it attached solidly to the Guide Plate and I thought I was golden.... but in my practice run I saw the screw heads scraped along the rail.  Errrp.