TS 55 LEAVING TOOL MARKS

[DANIELKARL]

I bought 500 bft of poplar wholesale , S2 face and better. After I make the final planner surface pass I am truing an edge with my TS 55 and two guide rails put together. The problem is I am getting a lot of sawblade marks in the edge. I am using a 28 tooth blade and yes I am running the saw on 6 but it is not as smooth as I expected.

 

[fdengel]

Could this be caused by needing to adjust those dials on the side of the saw where it mates with the guide rails?

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Without seeing a photo, it's hard to say if the results you are getting are atypical.

There is always a compromise between how clean the cut is and cutting speed when it comes to tooth count. A blade with 28 teeth is not going to have a fine finish like the 48 tooth stock blade.

Any chance we can see a photo?

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Did you expect a surface like it just went through the jointer?

The TS-55 is good but, I think it is unreasonable to expect a finish cut to look like it went through the jointer.

I have had good luck joining 2 boards with my 55 but, I don't expect a cut to look like a perfectly jointed edge.

And it was a 24t blade.

 

[danrush]

It could be the toe adjustment on the saw, it could be the blade, or, more often than not,  the work piece may not be supported properly.  If the piece you are cutting is not fully supported, it will fall into the spinning blade, causing both burning and blade marks. 

Dan

 

[zapdafish]

I buy S2S  lumber as well and bought the panther ripping blade for my ts55 to get me that one  straight edge. I get the marks too but I was planning on running it through the table saw anyways to get the glue line cuts. There is so much waste built into dimensioning lumber down to what I need, I figured the little extra taken off to smooth both edges just means instead of a 2" wide scrap I have a 1 7/8" scrap, hehe.

 

[fdengel]

I just leave the stock blade in mine, and as long as I'm using all of the splinter guards and the guide rail, the edges I've gotten on practically everything [reasonable] I've tried to cut with it so far have been quite perfect right off the saw.

I don't have (or want) a table saw; don't see a need for one.

 

[Tim Sproul]

Without seeing a photo, it's hard to say if the results you are getting are atypical.

Yup.

I've seen work of others that they called "glue line ready" that I called rough.  And then I've seen stuff that I called acceptable that others deemed rough.

Other than short cuts (say 10 inches or less), it is nearly impossible to get a mark-free cut.  Working with engineered materials gives results that are less marked than solid wood as engineered materials don't move as you cut.  Making a 6 foot long rip in solid lumber is going to cause the lumber to move as you rip.

With the Festool rail system, you have to apply the same amount of pressure on the saw handle and in the same direction throughout the entire cut.  The guide rails have that bit of foamy stuff that helps the rails from moving but the foamy stuff also has some give.  As well, you have a tiny amount of slop with the saw/rail contacts (no slop means the saw won't move along the rail).  So, if you change the pressure on the saw or the direction you are applying the pressure, then you will change the cut line ever so slightly, giving you saw marks.

 

[lym]

i had the same prob until i started clamping the guide rail.  i also use a tenryu rip blade.