When starting a cut should the saw be able to clear the material first then cut? Or make a plunge cut? If its the first, how much guide rail overhang @ the beginning of the cut? Also, the deflector for the guide rail wont allow a clamp to be placed from the front of it. Need to go to the other end of the rail and slide the clamp down. Is this correct? Thanks for any help.
TS-55 operation
- Thread starter to750
- Start date
Chris Hughes
Member
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2008
- Messages
- 572
Good question. I try to start my saw off the piece with as much rail as the base of my saw needs to allow both of the adjustable rail guides to engage. I then plunge my saw and go forward into the piece. I'm not sure if that is the way the saw is designed to operate but I have found that if I start the plunge half on the piece the saw has a tendency to "kick down" abruptly. As to your clamping question, I'm not sure what your asking. Chris
Chris,
you are right about the deflector, but if you are taking the time to clamp the material why not just spend a few more seconds removing and reinstalling the deflector. Just keep it hand tight. It is faster than feeding the clamp in from the far side.
Eiji
you are right about the deflector, but if you are taking the time to clamp the material why not just spend a few more seconds removing and reinstalling the deflector. Just keep it hand tight. It is faster than feeding the clamp in from the far side.
Eiji
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2007
- Messages
- 636
The blade is supposed to be clear of the workpiece when starting. Then plunge and cut.
Sometimes you can get by plunging 1 or 2 inches into the workpiece as you start. Any more than that and the factory recommends using the rail stop. It has a notch in one end to secure the base of the TS-55 before notching.
The clamps go in the slot on the bottom of the rail and hang upside down. The clamp can slide in the front before the deflector is put on, and then another clamp for the back. This way they are not in the way of the saw, but that means the workpiece has to be held up a table, saw horses, or something.
Most of the time, the clamps really aren't necessary. As you cut with the TS-55, stay behind the saw and apply downward pressure with a little forward pressure and that keeps the rail from sliding. You can ride the saw down the rail a few times without plunging (and the saw unplugged) and see how well it holds. After a few cuts, it just comes natural.
You will love the saw once you try it a few times.
Sometimes you can get by plunging 1 or 2 inches into the workpiece as you start. Any more than that and the factory recommends using the rail stop. It has a notch in one end to secure the base of the TS-55 before notching.
The clamps go in the slot on the bottom of the rail and hang upside down. The clamp can slide in the front before the deflector is put on, and then another clamp for the back. This way they are not in the way of the saw, but that means the workpiece has to be held up a table, saw horses, or something.
Most of the time, the clamps really aren't necessary. As you cut with the TS-55, stay behind the saw and apply downward pressure with a little forward pressure and that keeps the rail from sliding. You can ride the saw down the rail a few times without plunging (and the saw unplugged) and see how well it holds. After a few cuts, it just comes natural.
You will love the saw once you try it a few times.
Chris Hughes
Member
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2008
- Messages
- 572
What is the deflector?
Brice Burrell
Member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2007
- Messages
- 7,385
Here's a shot of the TS55 on the guide rail so it doesn't ahve to make a plunge cut to start, also in the pic is the deflector.
Dave Ronyak
Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 2,234
Qwas said:
Not quite ... my Plug-It cord and 27mm hose are getting battle scars from catching on the portion of the end of the guide rail not covered by the deflector. And I have the Boom Arm. That deflector was designed for the older style guide rails which are not as wide and do not have the open-top channel along the back edge. Festool needs to redesign this deflector to fit the current guide rails.
Dave R.
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2007
- Messages
- 636
I used to have that problem too. Now I keep my boom arm (not a factory boom) to the right of the table and that problem has disappeared.
Thanks for the picture Brice. It's worth a thousand words! You can see the deflector at the back end of the saw. It's black.
Thanks for the picture Brice. It's worth a thousand words! You can see the deflector at the back end of the saw. It's black.
Chris Hughes
Member
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2008
- Messages
- 572
Oh that deflector... I have a TS 75 combined with 1400mm rail. With that combo there is not enough rail to set the base of the saw and the deflector and not drop into the piece. I do use the deflector on my MFT. I'm not a complete muppet. Chris
Hi,
If your hose is coming from the left , try this modification http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=1580.0 It makes it a little smoother. The deflector can still be placed in the normal channel also.
Seth
If your hose is coming from the left , try this modification http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=1580.0 It makes it a little smoother. The deflector can still be placed in the normal channel also.
Seth
Steve Jones
Member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2007
- Messages
- 405
I made a mark on the guide rail to show where the overhang should start to avoid the plunge start - the only problem with the plunge start is if you do not let the saw get up to full speed before staring the plunge it will launch itself backwards towards you pretty swiftly - be VERY careful when starting plunge cuts and for added safety fit the stop to the rail behind the saw as well
Dave Ronyak
Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 2,234
Thanks for another good idea, Seth.
Dave R.
Dave R.
It is best to have saw a full saw base overhang at start side of the cut, and an half saw base
at the end. This is also the reason behind Festool recommendation for selecting a rail size
Note the TS55 and TS75 don't have the same base size.
Threadhttp://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=2643.0 discusses the topic,
and the following picture posted by Brice in it helps to understand what I wrote
here above: to make sure saw is fully plunged while running at full speed at
start, and to be sure that workpiece has been cut by the lower blade teeth at
cut end.
at the end. This is also the reason behind Festool recommendation for selecting a rail size
Note the TS55 and TS75 don't have the same base size.
Threadhttp://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=2643.0 discusses the topic,
and the following picture posted by Brice in it helps to understand what I wrote
here above: to make sure saw is fully plunged while running at full speed at
start, and to be sure that workpiece has been cut by the lower blade teeth at
cut end.
Corwin
Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2007
- Messages
- 2,624
This is an easy item to measure. First, as mentioned above you want either end of saw's travel down the rail not to extend past the gibs that keep the saw base aligned properly on the rail. The deflector mentioned above, once installed consumes the leading 32mm (1-1/4"), or so of the guide rail -- this also prevents the saw base (and gibs) to not be placed too far back. When you do not have enough lead before your material and have to start with a plunge, you are best advised to install the stop. This stop has a notch in its corner where you back the saw into -- the saw should sit tight back against the rear of the notch and the left side of the saw base should fit under the side of the notch such that it prevents the saw from lifting. With the deflector installed and the stop backed up too it, the combination leaves the rear edge of the saw base 74mm (3-7/8") forward from the bare end of the rail. With the deflector removed, the stop can be locked further back with its back edge overhanging the bare rail slightly -- this leaves the rear edge of the saw about 38mm (1-1/2") forward of the end of the rail.
The depth of cut also enters into the equation. The deeper the cut, the more room you'll need at the leading end. But when you reach the far end of the cut, the deeper cut will cross the finish line first. With that taken into account, you can evaluate the excess length of rail needed at the both the beginning and end of the cut. This is not as hard to do as this has been for me to describe and can be accomplished easily by placing the guide rail along the edge (like right after a cut) and lower the saw to the depth (or various depths you usually use) and take a look.
I went through this process some time back, and as I recall with a fairly deep depth of cut (around the 40mm setting) the saw needed about 10-3/4" on the lead end with the deflector installed to clear your material and thus prevent the plunge. No matter how you address the leading end, the base of the TS55 can hang beyond the end of the rail about 2" or so before the forward gib has gone off the end. With the saw at this location, the point of contact where the front of the blade meets the splinter strip is about 1/4" before the end of the rail while the rear of the blade meets the strip some 5-1/2 to 6" back from the front of the saw. So once you have established what is needed at each end and then add the length of cut you require, you will know how short a rail you can use. But keep in mind that if you use a rail that 'just' fits, you will need take care to place the rail not only at the correct location, but with the correct overhangs. Furthermore, use on an MFT, Jumbo MFT or cutting table that is also equipped with a fence will again add to you overall needs.
It is rather late, so if I have made any mistakes, please correct me.
The depth of cut also enters into the equation. The deeper the cut, the more room you'll need at the leading end. But when you reach the far end of the cut, the deeper cut will cross the finish line first. With that taken into account, you can evaluate the excess length of rail needed at the both the beginning and end of the cut. This is not as hard to do as this has been for me to describe and can be accomplished easily by placing the guide rail along the edge (like right after a cut) and lower the saw to the depth (or various depths you usually use) and take a look.
I went through this process some time back, and as I recall with a fairly deep depth of cut (around the 40mm setting) the saw needed about 10-3/4" on the lead end with the deflector installed to clear your material and thus prevent the plunge. No matter how you address the leading end, the base of the TS55 can hang beyond the end of the rail about 2" or so before the forward gib has gone off the end. With the saw at this location, the point of contact where the front of the blade meets the splinter strip is about 1/4" before the end of the rail while the rear of the blade meets the strip some 5-1/2 to 6" back from the front of the saw. So once you have established what is needed at each end and then add the length of cut you require, you will know how short a rail you can use. But keep in mind that if you use a rail that 'just' fits, you will need take care to place the rail not only at the correct location, but with the correct overhangs. Furthermore, use on an MFT, Jumbo MFT or cutting table that is also equipped with a fence will again add to you overall needs.
It is rather late, so if I have made any mistakes, please correct me.
