TS-55 or TS-75

[Brice Burrell]

MFT 800, $340, basic $225  ;D

 

[Dave Rudy]

Obviously, Festool guys are interested in quality and may not be particularly good at math.  ;D

 

[Dan Clark]

Breetz,

I hate to do this to you, but I think you ought to consider a triumpherate of tools - The TS55, MFT1080, and CT22 (or other Festool DC).  These three are born to be used together.  IMO, the MFT and DC basis for the Festool system.  They give you a dustfree environment and a great work surface.  With a TS55, you'd be amazed at the difference in your working environment.

Regards,

Dan.

 

[Corwin]

I'm with Dan on this --- you will want all three!

 

[semenza]

Hi,

    This is my first post here. I can't believe I have been missing out on this forum. I have been a Festool owner for about five years.
      On the guide rail advise part of this thread- One of the reasons I purchased the 55 and rails about five years ago was to get away from "join together" rails. They always seem to need aligning. I have joined mine for super long cuts , but the one piece is a gaurantee. Also if you are cutting sheet goods often I find it to be a real slow down having to connect , take apart, re-connect all the time. Much easier to just grab the correct length rail.  I have an 800, 1400, and 2700. I wish that each was a few inches longer, and will get a 3000 when I upgrade to the new saw version. 

      Seth R Semenza

 

[Brent b]

Hi Seth, welcome to the club.  There's some excellent content and posters in this forum as I'm sure your finding out.  If you haven't checked out the information by Jerry Work, Woodshopdemo's, and Rick Christopherson, then prepare to have your wallet and mind opened up.
It seems clear that when initially buying into Festool that there are many choices to make, all of them expensive.  So the question is what most likely serves the work one is trying to accomplish.  Actually the question is what's my credit limit.
I'm curious if you have the MFT and how you rate it if you do.  I decided against buying the longer rails in leiu of the MFT and am wondering if I'm missing out.  I cut alot of plywood down but the rail joining goes quick and gives me sufficiantly good results. 
Brent

 

[semenza]

Hi,

     Hope this isn't too much of a thread hijack, just want to respond to Brent.  I don't have the MFT, but I am thinking about it. Looking into all the info here, and considering building a larger one. I have been using a 32" x 96" home built cutting table with a replaceable top. I do my lumber ripping on this also, and have put together a jig to rip stuff narrower than the guide rails. The connected rails probably work fine but having them in a rack right next to this table I can just swap lengths at will. I have connected my rails a couple times to rip 13' boards.

Seth

 

[Dave Rudy]

I'm curious if you have the MFT and how you rate it if you do.  I decided against buying the longer rails in leiu of the MFT and am wondering if I'm missing out.  I cut alot of plywood down but the rail joining goes quick and gives me sufficiantly good results. 
Brent

Brent, I'm with Dan.  The MFT/TS-55 saw combo is the best (with dust collection of course).  I made a large MFT bu buying the 1080 and adding long rails, drilling my own piece of mdf.  It is a gem.  I was amazed when I had to pull apart some plumbing fittings last week on the compressed air hose and tools just how versatile the MFT is at holding all sorts of things -- extra hands.  But it really shines with the saw because of its ability to deliver precise, repeatable cuts.

HTH

Dave

 

[Matthew Schenker]

I don't have the MFT, but I am thinking about it. Looking into all the info here, and considering building a larger one.

I'd recommend the larger MFT (the 1080).  That's what I use, and, in fact, I am looking into ways to expand it further by joining two MFTs together or putting on extensions.  My point is, if you are planning to use this as a work space in your shop, the larger one is going to be better for you.  If you want a cutting table to fold up and take on site, perhaps the smaller one is better.  I say "perhaps" because I have folded up my 1080 to take on site.

Matthew

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Thanks for the replies, this is very helpful. So I'll ask more questions.

-Does anyone see a legitimate need for the 118" guide rail? I'm sure it would be nice to have but $250 is an expensive "nice to have". An additional 55" rail is much more economically feasable.

-I've read that when you connect two 55" rails, you need to start with a plunge cut. Does that leave a funky cut with tearout?

-When two 55" rails are joined does the rail tend bow in the middle while you are cutting, leaving you with a slightly concave cut?

-Actually, does the 118 guide rail bow or bend during cutting?

Breetz,

I recommend you follow the advice of those who suggest you purchase an additional rail that is greater than 55" length, which will give you more flexibility in future setup, and sometimes you won't need to join rails at all.  The 75" rail joined to a 55" rail gives you more than enough length cut lengthwise or even angled a 4x8 sheet of plywood. I did not know of that advice and bought another 55" rail.  Later I bought the short rail with holes for the router hole drilling jig.  For me, a better choice would have been the longer hole drilling rail, which would have given me even more system flexibility for less money.

There is a little sagging of two 55" rails when joined, but it is not an issue.  The sagging is due to the weight of the rails, and is not exacerbated at the joint.

Dave R.

 

[Eli]

I wish there would have been a pre-marriage discussion group. I'll bet that would have saved me some money.

If we could just get somebody to marry into the company, we'd be getting somewhere.