TS 55 REBQ - Problems Cutting Without Track

[GarethR]

Has anyone noticed when cutting without a track that their TS 55 catches on the edge of the piece being cut?

The base plate is uneven, i.e. not consistently flat across the plate, and a high spot on the plate just behind the blade is getting caught on the edge of the sheet (e.g. MDF).

This raises another point, the left side of the saw through the middle is low compared to the right side and will adjust the saw blade angle (perhaps only a small amount) when moving the saw across the work piece as the saw drops down to left side.

Any comments?

 

[ear3]

Others who use their tracksaw freehand on a regular basis will have to chime in, but for me, the couple of times I attempted to use the saw without the track I was not impressed, and noted difficulty in keeping the cut straight on the scribe line.  I know Festool claims it can be used without the track, but it has never worked out for me, and so I simply do not try to do it anymore.

 

[GarethR]

Thanks.

John:

1) as ear3 has said, Festool advertise that the saw can be used without a track
2) for those on a tighter budget they may not have enough tracks to cut larger pieces
3) there are situations when I'm cutting goods close to the ground and there is not enough underside clearance for the clamps to attach the track to the workpiece   

 

[GarethR]

Thanks John for the comments.

Honestly the only type of cut Festool really advertises without the rail is cutting flooring at the wall edge. Why that is important since the cut is still almost a half inch from the wall is beyond me. That's why baseboard molding is used.

As an example Festool also sell a parallel side fence which is used without a track.

If you don't have a long enough rail, do your cut, then reposition the rail with splinter guard as reference and continue your cut. Far more accurate than freehanding a track saw with no track.

My preferred method for cutting larger pieces is to attach a straight edge against which to run the saw. Has worked very well in the past and other than the obstructions on the base of the TS 55 seems to work with the saw. Allows me to cut without having to stop and re-position things and is accurate.

You can easily get by without clamping the rails to the work surface. Keep the work area clean of saw dust and apply down pressure on the rail. It can be done correctly and accurately for such situations.

Have previously used a rail without clamps on a clean surface, and while doable I have found things move occasionally so my preference is to clamp everything down and not have to worry about things maybe moving.

 

[DB10]

bnaboatbuilder has answered all your questions perfectly, by not taking his advice you are just making things unnecessarily difficult for yourself but that's your choice. People get by with only using one rail if that is all they have and you don't need to clamp down the rail when you are cutting, especially on the floor, that is why the rails have anti slip strips underneath.

 

[peter halle]

Cutting with the TS saws off the track is doable (I have done it many times) but honestly I put those experiences akin to "I am on a desert island with only one tool and I need to...".

[member=23087]bnaboatbuilder[/member], the reason for the 1/2" or whatever measurement it is along the baseboard is for engineered floors that need that expansion space. Usually done before baseboard installed.  Engineered floors are more popular in Europe where Festool has a larger following.

Peter

 

[ChuckM]

While John has answered Gareth's points very well, Gareth has put forward a very legitimate question regarding the capability of the TS55 (as well as the TS75 I assume, which I own) to cut like a circular saw. Before his query, I thought I could cut freely like a circular saw with my TS75.

Yes, there is no doubt for consistency, accuracy and precision, the TS should be used with the track, clamped down. However, if the TS could perform like a circular saw, it would be an option welcomed by those who choose to do so. Questions like his add to the body of knowledge regarding the TS. Thanks, Gareth.

 

[peter halle]

The spring tension on the plunge saws are the primary reason in my estimation.  The HK saws are like conventional circular saws.

Peter

 

[ear3]

I'm fairly militant when it comes to clamping the track.  I find that there is room for error, especially when entering the cut, for the track to skew slightly at the other end a milimeter or two (because you are applying lift force at the front of the track).  You can control for this by placing your free hand on the track in front of the saw, but I've experienced a skew enough times that I don't risk it if I don't have to.

 

[Gregor]

I'm fairly militant when it comes to clamping the track.

I found that the RAPID clamp works good for this, also when having the sheets as a stack or single ones on the floor (with some Dachlatten, or 2x4 for the imperial guys, as support).

 

[bertv]

A track saw should be used on a track. Hundreds of circular saws exist out there that allow freehand sawing so the user can view the blade tip, the cut line and follow the line accurately by hand.

True, but in a cinch a TS55 or 75 will do — the notch on the leading part of the frame is a fair indicator to follow instead of the cutting edge of the saw (which you will never be able to see, because it is on the underside of the material…).