TS 55 Reliability/Quality Problem

[peter halle]

Sorry to read about your friends issues.  Whereas he is getting his repaired and you also have one, here is a link to a great manual that might give extra tips that will help in the future:  https://www.festoolusa.com/service/owners-manuals#Saws  (go for the supplemental manual).

I haven't seen that product that you are showing in the images with all the stamps on it.  What is that?

Peter

 

[waho6o9]

I think using a dust extractor would help keep things cool.

IDK, I use both the 55 and 75 with dust extraction without issue. The 75 has a rip blade, Festool Panther blade, and the 55 uses
the stock blade for sheet goods  and I'm glad to report no problems.

 

[ChuckS]

Mine is a TS75 and so power has never been a concern for me. I never use any Festool machines without dust collection for both performance and health safety reasons. After all, dust extraction is a selling point Festool tries to convey.

The OP did not mention if he was using the saw with or without dust extraction which could make a difference.

 

[peter halle]

After looking at the images posted in the first of this thread I would venture a guess that dust extraction in at least this particular operation was not utilized.

Peter

 

[Rip Van Winkle]

A rip blade is optimal.  That said, I'd recommend the 28 tooth blade as a general purpose blade.  I use the Freud 28 tooth blade.  You can get these for for around 30 bucks on Amazon. Freud 28 tooth blade, Amazon

Keep in mind that changing blades with different sized kerfs will affect the guide rail's splinter strip. The Festool blades have a 2.2mm kerf. This Freud blade has a 2.5mm kerf. Not a big difference, but it will cut into your splinter strip a little more and therefore when you reinstall a blade with the narrower kerf, your splinter strip will no longer work as well with that blade.

The crucial dimensions for the anti splinter strips on the track are not the kerf width of the blade, it’s the kerf width of the blade minus the thickness of the saw plate.

A 2.2mm kerfed blade, with a 1.8mm saw plate(the thickness of the sheet of steel the body of the blade was cut from) has a kerf/plate difference of .4mm. 
A 1.8mm kerfed blade, with a 1.4mm saw plate, would also have a kerf/plate difference of .4mm, so the saw blade should cut at the same area in regards to the anti splinter strip on the guide rails.

The plastic anti splinter strip that attaches to the saw would be affected, and would need to be swapped out for the narrower blade, but that is less of a hassle and cost.

Other things can come into play, such as blade deflection from a thinner blade, and manufacturing tolerences, and if a blade has been Sharpened.
Sharpening a blade, will narrow the teeth slightly, causing them to cut further away from the guide rail antisplinter strip.

 

[Svar]

The OP did not mention if he was using the saw with or without dust extraction which could make a difference.

I don't see how. It does not cool the motor and does not reduce chip load.

 

[Rip Van Winkle]

Definitely swap out the 48 tooth blade for the 12 tooth rip blade. I'd even try using the 12 tooth rip blade (500463) for the HKC. The kerf on the HKC blade is .4mm narrower which means theoretically, it should use 20% less power.

It may be the moisture content in the yellow pine is the culprit.

I am surprised however, that the temp control circuit and the current limiting circuit didn't kick in  [sad]  to prevent the damage, that's what they're for.  [mad]  [mad]

The problem with pine isn’t the “moisture” content, it’s the resin content. Even two hundred year old pine can and will gum up a blade with resin from within the “fully dried” lumber. New pine or other contruction lumber can have so much resin, that your tools may have to be taken apart and cleaned after a days use, simply to make sure there isn’t still resin gumbing up the arbor, or dust collection port, or other areas of the tool.
The resin will also gum up the blade incredibly quickly, especially for long deep cuts were the blade heats up continuously. 

Popular US saws like Milwaukee tilt loks, still have the resin on blade issue. The Milwaukees however use a 7-1/4” blade, which is closer to the diameter of the former ATF65 saws festool used to sell( 7-1/4”=185mm, Festool ATF65 used 190mm/7-1/2” blade). The Milwaukee saws also have a higher 15 amp motor, had a higher blade rotation speed, came with a thin kerf blade, and the blade was a general purpose construction blade with a lower tooth count. I haven’t checked what the specs are on the Makita saw that was used, but it’s probably somewhere between the Festool TS75 and Milwaukee, the motor is definately going have a higher amp draw.

 

[ChuckS]

The OP did not mention if he was using the saw with or without dust extraction which could make a difference.

I don't see how. It does not cool the motor and does not reduce chip load.

If the saw was already underperforming because of the thickness of the stock and binding of the softwood, the friction between wood and the blade was a factor. Sawdust created by the cutting was not removed quickly by any dust collection and that could also add to the problem. It was not the cooling of the motor but preventing unnecessary loading on the blade and motor that dust collection could help.

Not an advice for saws, but it is known that dust collection is important when using the DF500. As I see it, the sawdust build-up is not only harmful to my lung but also to my machines, even if the extent of harm might be small.

 

[JFelchlin]

When I started looking at Festool Track Saws in 2007 -
I was undecided - TS 55? TS 75?
The TS 55 was lighter and easier to handle.
The TS 75 was heavier - But... It was powerful. It was a “beast”.
Good Ole George at my local Woodcraft store said to me:
“Didn’t your daddy tell you ‘BIGGER is always better’”?  [smile]
I bought the ‘75 - And have never regretted it.

If I used a saw all day long in the trades...
I might think differently about the weight aspect.
But... As a hobbyist furniture maker - The ‘75 meets all my needs.
I’ve bought a “rip” blade - And a “fine” tooth blade...
But... It came with a 36 tooth “combo” blade - And that’s my “everyday” blade.
I seldom change it for the others. Using my 3,000mm Guide Rail -
I’ve ripped: 2-1/2” - 8’ oak, walnut, cherry, birch - 3/4” full sheets of MDF/ Particleboard, Plywood - And more.
I take it easy - And the “beast” cuts thru ‘em “like butter”.
Yea... I may buy a lighter saw at some point - Age being a possible “game changer”.
But for now - “BIGGER is still better.” 

 

[MrToolJunkie]

I think that the corded TS55 is weak - I noticed that in FT training cutting sheet goods. I opted for the 75 and have been happy for solid wood. I acquired a cordless TSC 55 and that has had plenty of power - so I recommend it over the corded for anyone wanting a FT saw and not having issues with power. You need to have an extra set of batteries for lots of cutting, but so far it has been a good set-up for me and processing solid wood. Something else to consider.

 

[lunchman]

A number of weeks ago I needed to make a 45 deg rip cut in a 2x4 to fill in the gap in a 45 deg wall I had framed. The TS55 was out and available, my portable table saw was not. I set up the track saw, got about 18" into the cut, the saw started to bind and tripped my 15 amp garage breaker (one reason I'm building a shop in the basement). I've used the TS55 for plenty of 3/4" plywood cuts, have never used it on 2x4s.

I was somewhat surprised, but realizing I'm using the stock blade and knowing the saw is a bit underpowered, not that surprised. I pulled out the DeWalt table saw, angled the blade and finished the cut. Sure it would be nice if the TS55 had managed the cut and not struggled but in this case it was a matter of using the wrong tool which I immediately realized.

-Dom

 

[mtbev]

We were cutting a 3 " thick glulam beam. Started the cut with 1.5" deep on one side then cut 1.5" deep on the other after flipping the beam. We were making a heavy duty table by gluing up 2 glulams. The intention was to straight line two pieces of glulam in order to glue them together to make a 30 " wide table top.

I still can't get over the inability to cut more than 12 LF at 1.5" deep and the saw gave up.

 

[Michael Kellough]

We were cutting a 3 " thick glulam beam. Started the cut with 1.5" deep on one side then cut 1.5" deep on the other after flipping the beam. We were making a heavy duty table by gluing up 2 glulams. The intention was to straight line two pieces of glulam in order to glue them together to make a 30 " wide table top.

I still can't get over the inability to cut more than 12 LF at 1.5" deep and the saw gave up.

Since the teeth of the saw were buried in the kerf the lack of dust extraction was a factor. Without positive dust extraction more of that resinous sawdust stayed in the gullets and spread out in the kerf as the teeth carved out more dust increasing friction and contributed to overloading the saw.

I've never been a fan of the ATF and TS speed control tech. They hold back a significant amount of power in order to "give you more" when the going gets tough. I'd rather just have it all, or at least the option to have full power.

 

[grbmds]

A lot of replies, but I think the most important information was the advice to use a 28 tooth or less blade made for ripping. Even on a table saw, I do sometimes use a combination blade for ripping but never on 1 1/2" material, regardless of whether it's hardwood or pine. The combination blades just can't handle ripping material that thick well; sometimes not at all. Given the length of the rip it would be even more important to use a blade meant for ripping.

 

[jugwaxer]

I've never had a problem ripping walnut, maple, white oak and sapele with my TS55 when using a Freud Rip blade. I did try and use the 48 tooth blade and it did bog the saw down, but that blade isn't made for rip cuts so I wasn't surprised. Just switched it out for the rip blade on the next cut and had no problems.

Maybe the Makita has enough extra power to use a blade for a purpose it wasn't designed for. My Bosch CS20 stalled cross cutting some walnut with a 60 tooth blade in it and it's a 15 AMP saw so there could be a lot of factors. Certain boards have stresses in them and others don't.

 

[epicxt]

I've never had a problem ripping walnut, maple, white oak and sapele with my TS55 when using a Freud Rip blade. I did try and use the 48 tooth blade and it did bog the saw down, but that blade isn't made for rip cuts so I wasn't surprised. Just switched it out for the rip blade on the next cut and had no

+1
I just finished up a kitchen counter replacement where I ended up making the backsplash out of a leftover 6' section of the 1.5" thick maple butcher block material. I forgot to bring my ts75 to the site, so tossed the 12 tooth blade in the ts55 and ripped six 4" strips before re sawing them on the bandsaw and running them through the planer. Had no problems and the saw plowed through the cuts pretty quickly.

 

[yetihunter]

I don't want to come across as a condescending armchair carpenter, but I wouldn't try ripping 2x Pine with a 48t blade in my Mafell tracksaw.  So what if the TS55 is 200 watts less than this saw or that saw?  That's not the problem. 

 

[glass1]

Really ?  Really ?  So when cutting down an antique custom pine door 1 3/4” to 2” thick y’all with your ts55’s have to switch to the panther blade ? You know true doors that need to be cut are cross cuts and rips.  And yes my Makita has got the power to rip cut pine wth a 48 tooth blade, effortlessly.  End of story, some festools just miss the mark, the ts55 is purposefully underpowered to not take market share from the ts75. Some festool products rock, domino remote control vac., routers, the planer is a little awkward but when you need you need it.

 

[TheSergeant]

This is why I got rid of my TS55.  I went with the Makita 36V.  The difference is dramatic.  Not only is there more power but it's also spinning the blade 20% faster than the TS55.  It has the same constant torque/speed that the TS55 but it's much quieter/smoother and lacks the "growl" of the TS55's electronics.  The stock blade on the Makita is crazy good and is $40 to replace. 

 

[grbmds]

Really ?  Really ?  So when cutting down an antique custom pine door 1 3/4” to 2” thick y’all with your ts55’s have to switch to the panther blade ?

Yes. I would even switch to a rip blade on a table saw if I were cutting wood that thick, hardwood or soft wood. It's not only about the power of the saw, it's also about a blade with the number of teeth, set of the teeth, and the size of the gullet between the teeth not being able to clear out the saw dust and chips effectively. This tends to make the blade perform less effectively and doesn't let the blade do its job as intended. Have I ripped 2" wood with a combination blade on a table saw. Guess I have, but only when I didn't have a rip blade handy. I haven't done that in many years though. Safer.