TS 55 Reliability/Quality Problem

[Dick Mahany]

Yes. I would even switch to a rip blade on a table saw if I were cutting wood that thick, hardwood or soft wood. It's not only about the power of the saw, it's also about a blade with the number of teeth, set of the teeth, and the size of the gullet between the teeth not being able to clear out the saw dust and chips effectively. This tends to make the blade perform less effectively and doesn't let the blade do its job as intended. Have I ripped 2" wood with a combination blade on a table saw. Guess I have, but only when I didn't have a rip blade handy. I haven't done that in many years though. Safer.

Totally agree.  I've been a blade changer for years both on my table saw and with my TS55.  The right blade for the particular operation produces the best result with the least amount of effort and is safer.  The few seconds it takes to perform a blade change are more than compensated for in the long run in terms of time and cut quality.

 

[yetihunter]

Just so that I can partake in the sack pyramid:  6" 48t blade on a dinky sidewinder is like an 80-96t on a 110v contractor saw. 
That's insane.

 

[peter halle]

It takes less than 60 seconds to change a blade on a TS-55.  Why not cut the best cut and cause the least wear on your tool?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BixH1v5nZvI/?hl=en&taken-by=festoolsedge

Peter

 

[RussellS]

Agree with the blade changers.  On my table saw I always change to the right blade.  Many teeth crosscut, or lesser teeth rip.  Unfortunately for me, my rip blade has too many teeth.  Power is one reason.  Quality of cut is more important.  I want every cut to be perfectly smooth, so I use the right blade.  I have the rip and cross/combo blade for my TS55.  I have no problems changing the blade.  When I plane wood with my handplanes, I switch to the right plane.  When using my sanders, I switch paper grit to get the right smoothness.  When I am driving finish nails, I use my lighter hammer.  When driving 16 penny spikes, I use the heavy framing hammer.  Not sure there are too many tools that do everything perfectly in all situations with no changes or modifications whatsoever.

 

[Cheese]

I can’t really imagine using 600 grit sand paper to cut through 10 layers of old paint. Just put the right disc on the sander... and put the right blade on the saw. Easy...peasy.

 

[RussellS]

I can’t really imagine using 600 grit sand paper to cut through 10 layers of old paint. Just put the right disc on the sander... and put the right blade on the saw. Easy...peasy.

You may not be able to imagine it, but it would work.  Using only 400 or 600 grit sandpaper would "Eventually" smooth down any piece of wood.  It might take hours instead of minutes using 40, 80, 120, 220, 400 grit.  But it would work eventually.  Kind of like using the 80 tooth crosscut blade to rip.  It will work if you go "Real" slow.  But better to just switch to a rip blade.

 

[Steven Owen]

I can’t really imagine using 600 grit sand paper to cut through 10 layers of old paint. Just put the right disc on the sander... and put the right blade on the saw. Easy...peasy.

You may not be able to imagine it, but it would work.  Using only 400 or 600 grit sandpaper would "Eventually" smooth down any piece of wood.  It might take hours instead of minutes using 40, 80, 120, 220, 400 grit.  But it would work eventually.  Kind of like using the 80 tooth crosscut blade to rip.  It will work if you go "Real" slow.  But better to just switch to a rip blade.

 

[Steven Owen]

The TS 55 is a plywood saw.  I would never use it for dimensional lumber of any kind.  Your friend is using the wrong Saw for the job.  He should be using the TS 75, Makita, Mafell or the soon to be release Bosch Track Saw.

I would think the Makita 36 V and TS 75 would have the same power.  The TS 75 is bigger, heavier and can do deeepr cuts.  The Makita would be more Light and agile, more economic but can’t cut at the same depth as the TS 75. 

 

[Cheese]

You may not be able to imagine it, but it would work.  Using only 400 or 600 grit sandpaper would "Eventually" smooth down any piece of wood.  It might take hours instead of minutes using 40, 80, 120, 220, 400 grit.  But it would work eventually.  Kind of like using the 80 tooth crosscut blade to rip.  It will work if you go "Real" slow.  But better to just switch to a rip blade.

You’re right I can’t imagine it.

However, let’s get past this “eventually” thing and just agree to swap out saw blades and be done with it.

 

[kevinculle]

Agree with the blade changers.  On my table saw I always change to the right blade.  Many teeth crosscut, or lesser teeth rip.  Unfortunately for me, my rip blade has too many teeth.  Power is one reason.  Quality of cut is more important.  I want every cut to be perfectly smooth, so I use the right blade. 

I have a 30 year old 1 1/2HP Delta Contractors saw that wears one blade all the time, a Forrest Woodworker II.  Rip, crosscut, mitre this blade provides a quality cut.  After probably 25 years of use I sent it back to Forrest for sharpening a few months back.  Wow!  While it still worked well I had forgotten how silky this blade was when really sharp.  Best $32 I've spent in a long time!

 

[JFelchlin]

In Reply #28 of this thread l espoused the virtue of my TS 75: “The ‘75 meets all my needs” - And said: “Yea... I may buy a lighter saw at some point - Age being a possible ‘game changer’.”

Well.. A TS 55 REQ came available on Festool’s Recon site at a great price -
And I succumbed (once again) to the temptation of the “Green Kool Aid”.
This threads title should have forewarned me: “TS 55 Reliability/Quality Problem”.
The saw arrived DOA.
(And...  To boot - The Blade wasn’t aligned to the Base at 90 degrees, when indicated.)
“Silly me”. I thought Festool actually RECONDITIONED these tools -
And at a minimum - Somebody plugged ‘em and pulled the trigger.
Had to go through the hassle of repacking the saw, filling out the paperwork, and hauling it to UPS. It’s on its way to Festool Service.
What a frustration. [mad]

I must say that I bought another Recon Sale item - A CT 26 Dust Extractor - And have had no problems so far.
But... A year or so ago I bought a new DF 700 XL Domino Joiner that’s sight gauge couldn’t be aligned - Even after two trips to Festool Service - And a lot of hassle.
(Eventually, after intervention by Tyler C and Festool Germany HQ - Festool sent me a new one.)

I understand that nothing/no one is perfect.
But, the the last few years, it seems more and more is “slipping through the cracks” with Festool.
This latest experience only reaffirms what I continue to read regularly on the FOG.
It appears that in recent years Festool’s Quality Assurance continues to decline -
As they “trade off” of “yesterday’s” reputation.
Come on Festool. We’re trying to “keep the faith”. Be what you claim to be.

 

[Brice Burrell]

It takes less than 60 seconds to change a blade on a TS-55.  Why not cut the best cut and cause the least wear on your tool?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BixH1v5nZvI/?hl=en&taken-by=festoolsedge

Peter

Devil's advocate.  Why spend the time and extra expense on another blade(s) to do the what the Makita 36V can do with stock blade?

 

[glass1]

Blade change lovers, well not all of us use track saws to only build cabinets. If I only built Cabinets I would get the right tool, a sliding table saw. I am a woodworker and I use the track saw often to edge join long pieces. Ie a 48 tooth blade on the Makita makes a glue ready cut in mahogany. On my current job I have ripped well over 200 ft of 3/4” flat sawed mahogany and still have 2 bars of battery. That being said the Makita is killer save one thing the slop adjusters need to be checked often especially on joined rails. I may pick up the tsc 55 if it’s got the power. 2 tracks saws are better than one, 1 adjusted to rip rail 1 adjusted to the cross cut rail.

 

[peter halle]

It takes less than 60 seconds to change a blade on a TS-55.  Why not cut the best cut and cause the least wear on your tool?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BixH1v5nZvI/?hl=en&taken-by=festoolsedge

Peter

Devil's advocate.  Why spend the time and extra expense on another blade(s) to do the what the Makita 36V can do with stock blade?

Because it is cheaper than buying a Makita 36v?  Or because you already have a TS-55 and other blades?

Peter

 

[Steven Owen]

It takes less than 60 seconds to change a blade on a TS-55.  Why not cut the best cut and cause the least wear on your tool?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BixH1v5nZvI/?hl=en&taken-by=festoolsedge

Peter

Devil's advocate.  Why spend the time and extra expense on another blade(s) to do the what the Makita 36V can do with stock blade?

Because it is cheaper than buying a Makita 36v?  Or because you already have a TS-55 and other blades?

Peter

Peter, I wouldn’t call the Makita 36 Volt cheaper by any means.  By the time you buy the saw, battery packs and track, the price is about the same as the more capable TS 75. 

I think people make too big of deal about the weight of the TS 75.  It’s only 3 1/4 pounds heavier than the TS 75.  The Makita blades don’t have matched Kerfs like the TS 75.  The Makita forces you to change strips with blades changes. 

I’m a bit puzzled why anyone would compare the TS 75 against the Makita.  The TS 75 can handle thicker hardwoods and a wider range of materials than the Makita 36 V. 

 

[grbmds]

Blade change lovers, well not all of us use track saws to only build cabinets. If I only built Cabinets I would get the right tool, a sliding table saw. I am a woodworker and I use the track saw often to edge join long pieces. Ie a 48 tooth blade on the Makita makes a glue ready cut in mahogany. On my current job I have ripped well over 200 ft of 3/4” flat sawed mahogany and still have 2 bars of battery. That being said the Makita is killer save one thing the slop adjusters need to be checked often especially on joined rails. I may pick up the tsc 55 if it’s got the power. 2 tracks saws are better than one, 1 adjusted to rip rail 1 adjusted to the cross cut rail.

3/4" probably is OK, but the original post indicated 1 1/2" ripping (or plunging 1 1/2" into a board thicker than that) which I think would likely put more stress on any motor if using a 48-tooth blade. I have ripped 3/4" hardwood with the TS55 and a 48-tooth blade, but wouldn't even think of trying 1 1/2" rips with that blade.

 

[peter halle]

It takes less than 60 seconds to change a blade on a TS-55.  Why not cut the best cut and cause the least wear on your tool?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BixH1v5nZvI/?hl=en&taken-by=festoolsedge

Peter

Devil's advocate.  Why spend the time and extra expense on another blade(s) to do the what the Makita 36V can do with stock blade?

Because it is cheaper than buying a Makita 36v?  Or because you already have a TS-55 and other blades?

Peter

Peter, I wouldn’t call the Makita 36 Volt cheaper by any means.  By the time you buy the saw, battery packs and track, the price is about the same as the more capable TS 75. 

I think people make too big of deal about the weight of the TS 75.  It’s only 3 1/4 pounds heavier than the TS 75.  The Makita blades don’t have matched Kerfs like the TS 75.  The Makita forces you to change strips with blades changes. 

I’m a bit puzzled why anyone would compare the TS 75 against the Makita.  The TS 75 can handle thicker hardwoods and a wider range of materials than the Makita 36 V.

To change blades on an existing TS-55 is cheaper than buying a Makita 36 v.

 

[glass1]

I recently rehabbed 2 antique barn doors. 2” thick. Plenty of rip cuts. 48 tooth blade. No problem in southern yellow pine for Makita. Paid $399 with charger 4 batteries 2 sustainers and a rail. Only need the 48 tooth blade.

 

[Cheese]

TSC 55 with a 28T universal blade

White oak, 1 7/8" thick

[attachimg=1]

Walnut, 1 3/4" thick

[attachimg=2]

 

[glass1]

Cool  [big grin].  Nice