TS-75 Blade for Cutting into Existing Wood Floor
- Thread starter jbasen
- Start date
There is no problem at all with using a tracksaw and rail to rip what you want. A few nails will get whacked thru, which is no big deal. The right blade will help and for me Oslun's fit the bill. I've lost count of how many nails I have cut over the years, especially doing replacement windows and cutting thru the siding. Oops missed pulling a couple! *shrugs*
I used Ditra XL in my own home with flush hardwood floors. Caulked the gap with grout color matched caulk, and they came out just how I wanted them. Ditra also functions as a disconnect to allow some movement without the tile and grout cracking.
I became a big fan of Laticrete epoxy grout too. Super easy to clean down the road, flexible to a point, and easy enough to work with IF you use a kitchen scale and break it down into smaller mixes.
As it is an entry way you should probably seal that slate tile. It WILL change the color though, making it darker.
I used Ditra XL in my own home with flush hardwood floors. Caulked the gap with grout color matched caulk, and they came out just how I wanted them. Ditra also functions as a disconnect to allow some movement without the tile and grout cracking.
I became a big fan of Laticrete epoxy grout too. Super easy to clean down the road, flexible to a point, and easy enough to work with IF you use a kitchen scale and break it down into smaller mixes.
As it is an entry way you should probably seal that slate tile. It WILL change the color though, making it darker.
Cheese
Member
Peter_C said:
I'm also a big fan of epoxy grout. It's waterproof and basically stain proof. I used the Bostik variety in the kitchen with stainless steel tiles. Tomato sauce, even if it's not washed off for several days, is easily removed with a damp cloth.
I'd not recommend it for slate though because the haze will be impossible to remove because of the porosity of slate. It works best with tile that is not porous, stainless, porcelain, glass or ceramic.
I've also installed Vermont mottled purple slate in an entry way and sealed it along with a cementious grout. Its held up well for the last 8-9 years. I applied 2 seal coats to the slate & grout.
Good point on leaving a haze. That is easily overcome by carefully applying sealer to the tops of the stones BEFORE grouting. Flat stones in a shower are a perfect example of when to use a sealer before grouting with epoxy.http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=34107Cheese said:
^The John Bridge forum is dedicated to tiling, FULL of great information with lots of pros willing to help others.
Lots of tilers today use urethane grouts too.https://www.bostik.com/us/markets-a...-systems/tile-grout/pre-mixed-urethane-grout/
BTW you can freeze epoxy after it is mixed to slow it's cure down. I keep a few glues in my fridge to make them last longer, IE: Aquaseal.
Another thing to quickly check into would be your floor deflection, just to make sure the tile will last a long time.http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl
Cheese
Member
That's a good point, if a person wants to use epoxy grout with slate, the slate just needs to be sealed first. [cool]Peter_C said:
What drove me to epoxy grout is I asked several local tile retailers their recommended method to seal the standard grout used with the stainless tile. Each one told me to purchase several small artists brushes and carefully paint the sealer on the grout making sure I didn't touch the stainless tile with the brush because that would become visible. They suggested I also apply 3 coats of sealer because it was in the kitchen behind a range.
Really??? Patience is a wonderful thing but there had to be a better way. [big grin]
Enter epoxy grout...I'll also be using it for a bathroom remodel on porcelain tile because of its waterproof characteristics.
You are very welcomejbasen said:
Do this below now, before buying stone. The floor deflection needs to be a high number for slate stone @ L/720. If there is an issue with deflection, post to the board and someone can help you get it resolved.
Peter_C said:
Thanks. I'm pretty confident in the deflection. We have the exact same slate tile just down the hall in our mudroom and haven't had any issues. I also know that the builder that constructed this house uses a closer floor joist spacing than is required by code to minimize overall deflection in the flooring as that is a point of pride for him.
Naildrivingman
Member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2017
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Just a quick follow up to cutting...have you considered getting a wood wizard (or similar) metal detector? Also, do you know that the fasteners are nails? All the flooring contractors I’ve worked with are using staples. Yes, staples are still metal, but I would rather cut through a staple than a t shank nail.
Thanks [member=64733]Naildrivingman[/member]
Since I'm sizing the hole so I don't have to cut any of the slate tiles I really don't have a choice as to where the hole is going to be cut in the floor. So, whether the floor is held with nails or staples isn't going to matter. I just going to have to cut through them. It is a good point however that if the floor is held with staples they will be easier to cut through. I'm just not going to find out until I make the cuts and start pulling up flooring
Since I'm sizing the hole so I don't have to cut any of the slate tiles I really don't have a choice as to where the hole is going to be cut in the floor. So, whether the floor is held with nails or staples isn't going to matter. I just going to have to cut through them. It is a good point however that if the floor is held with staples they will be easier to cut through. I'm just not going to find out until I make the cuts and start pulling up flooring
