TS-75 Not cutting even with the rail guide?

[BRowland]

Having a problem where my ts-75 not cutting wood even with the rubber strip. I did have a toe in issue where the last 2" of a board would get sniped, but fixed that with a few adjustments as refered to in earlier post here.

Shouldn't the saw blade cut a board at the very same place that it cut the rubber strip? When I cut a board the blade leaves a little more that 1/32" past the rubber strip. Is this normal? I always thought that the blade should cut precisely along the cut it made in the rubber stip, which makes cutting along a marked line a no brainer. Now I have to allow for this "extra" space when I try to set up for cut along a marked line.

Any ideas?

 

[greg mann]

Did you move the splinterguard out and recut it after adjusting the toe-in? Perhaps the difference you are seeing is a remnant of the earlier snipe problem. If you need to remove and adjust the splinterguard you can heat it up a lilltle with a hair dryer and slowly peel it away, move it out an 1/8 inch or so, and recut.

 

[semenza]

Hi,

      Have you switched blades at any point?  The TS75 comes with the Universal blade, which is wider than the Fine blade. And that switch would create the 1/32" that you are talking about.

Seth

 

[CharlesWilson]

Is your saw tightly set on the guide rail? (Those two green knurled knobs remove any slop with the rail.)

 

[woodpicker]

When I cut the rubber strip to fit the first time, I like to cut the whole length of the rail. So I can use the rubber edge for indexing. But there is a few inches of the rail at the end (or the beginning) of the cut will not make our TS-75 (or 55) "sit tight" in the rail. Since one of the green dial might be already off the rail.

Finally I found the way to make the first cut, I should join two rails (or three) together. Sandwich it. So the TS-75 can travel all the way through the middle rail and make a complete "sit tight" cut.

Also I found we should always choose a rail which is much longer than the wood we are going to cut. So we won't let the green dial off the rail and cut some extra rubber strip off at the end again.

Maybe this is the problem you have?

 

[Michael Kellough]

Also I found we should always choose a rail which is much longer than the wood we are going to cut.

This is certainly true for the TS saws. It is not only the green cam that has to contact the spine of the guide rail but also the proud area of the saw base directly opposite the green cam.

With the old ATF style of saws you can maintain a fairly straight cut even if half the saw is off the rail because the slot in the steel saw base is straight so if you maintain pressure (on the saw) to the left the slot/saw will track straight with the guide rail.

 

[BRowland]

Looks like what greg mann suggested was the issue. I have never cut the splinter guard on the rail that came with the TS-75, I have been using the guide that comes with the 1080 table, so I cut it after the toe-in issue was properly adjusted and all is well.

I now have the saw cutting exactly flush with the splinter guard strip. I will move the splinter guard out on the tables guide rail and re-cut to
confirm this, but I have no doubt it will be flush also.

I am also using the guide rail that came with the TS-75, instead of the one that came with the table, as it is much longer. I am doing this following woodpickers and Michael's suggestion.

I never changed the blades during this issue, so that was not a consideration.

Thanks to all who replied! What a great forum! I just discovered it after looking for a solution to this problem.

Guess I'll be hanging out here more often!

 

[greg mann]

Hey! Chalk one up for the old guys. ;D ;D ;D

 

[Greg_R]

BRowland: I have a set of splinter guards cut & labeled for popular depths (1/4" ply, 3/4" ply, etc.).  This gives me the best results on chip-prone woods.

Welcome to the forum!

 

[semenza]

BRowland: I have a set of splinter guards cut & labeled for popular depths (1/4" ply, 3/4" ply, etc.).  This gives me the best results on chip-prone woods.

Welcome to the forum!

Hi,

  The green saw splinter guards? That makes sense keeping the kerf that gets cut in it as short as possible. I have them labeled for different blades. But perhaps I will do both. 

Seth

 

[marc kunkel]

Having a problem where my ts-75 not cutting wood even with the rubber strip. I did have a toe in issue where the last 2" of a board would get sniped, but fixed that with a few adjustments as refered to in earlier post here.

Shouldn't the saw blade cut a board at the very same place that it cut the rubber strip? When I cut a board the blade leaves a little more that 1/32" past the rubber strip. Is this normal? I always thought that the blade should cut precisely along the cut it made in the rubber stip, which makes cutting along a marked line a no brainer. Now I have to allow for this "extra" space when I try to set up for cut along a marked line.

Any ideas?

I'm having a similar problem,  My saw is healing to the right causing the blade to distort in thicker materials. I can't find an adjustment for it. I do have the green cams snug on the rail. Does anyone know an adjustment for healing?
Marc