TS 75 Questions

[rmhinden]

I purchased an old growth redwood live edge slab last weekend that I plan to use to make a bench fromhttps://www.kochlacswood.us in Santa Cruz.  He has a lot of nice slabs for sale.

It about 2 1/16" thick.  I have a TS 55 that I was planning to cut it, but I don't think this will cut to this depth using the track.  The slab is too big and heavy to use on my table saw.  It's a perfect application for a track saw.

Consequently,  I have started thinking about getting a TS 75.  Does the current model (TS 75 EQ-F-Plus USA) in the US, come with an Imperial scale?  The pictures on festoolusa.com appear to show a metric scale.  When did they start using an Imperial scale on the US model?

I am torn about buying it, the TS 55 has been fine for my needs so far.  I am not sure how much I will use it beyond this project.  Though, there are more slabs.    I guess it's a lot cheaper than a bigger table saw with out feed tables

Thanks in advance.

 

[ScotF]

Imperial scales in the US. That changed a few years ago. It cuts to almost 3 inches on the track. Not sure if it is an option, bt the 55 could cut 1/2 way and then flip to the other half or finish with a jigsaw - just another option that might or might not work. I would finish the edge with a router bit and bearing -- flush trim -- to get the edge perfectly smooth between the two cuts if doing it in two passes.

 

[Birdhunter]

My concern would be the wood binding the blade on a very deep cut. Those old slabs have a nasty way of moving when cut. Lots of stored up tension in the wood.

I think I agree with the idea of a 1/2 way cut, flipping, and finishing the cut.

 

[Mario Turcot]

Are we talking about crosscut or ripping. If you only need to crosscut the slab and that the slab is perfectly flat the TS 55 should be able to handle it. Clamp your track firmly and do light pass. Make sure to cut at a steady pace to avoid burnout.

If you also have to do ripping cut the TS 55 might have hard time. Like Birdhunter said watch for binding and get a few wedges handy.

 

[nvalinski]

Just bought a TS 75 for this exact purpose. It will cut 2.75" on the track, so it'd do what you need well. It does have an imperial scale. In my case though, I didn't own a track saw, so it was an easier decision. You could very well do the flip over with your TS 55. Another option would be to go the old school route and use the T track channel edge of your track as a straight edge to run a "normal" circular saw up against the side. You can get a 10-1/4" saw for under $300 if you don't think you'll use the 75 all that much.

 

[rmhinden]

Just bought a TS 75 for this exact purpose. It will cut 2.75" on the track, so it'd do what you need well. It does have an imperial scale. In my case though, I didn't own a track saw, so it was an easier decision. You could very well do the flip over with your TS 55. Another option would be to go the old school route and use the T track channel edge of your track as a straight edge to run a "normal" circular saw up against the side. You can get a 10-1/4" saw for under $300 if you don't think you'll use the 75 all that much.

Thanks, this and the other comments were all helpful.  Lot's of options.

One more question;  If I get the TS 75, can I set it up so I can use the same track as the TS55.  That is, can the TS 55 and TS 75 cut the same distance between the blade and the splinter guard.  Is there a procedure or document that describes how to do this? 

 

[Cheese]

If I get the TS 75, can I set it up so I can use the same track as the TS55.  That is, can the TS 55 and TS 75 cut the same distance between the blade and the splinter guard.  Is there a procedure or document that describes how to do this?

Check the Supplemental Manual for the TS 55. It's something like "matching to an existing rail".

 

[rmhinden]

Check the Supplemental Manual for the TS 55. It's something like "matching to an existing rail".

Perfect. 

Thanks!

 

[Svar]

I am torn about buying it, the TS 55 has been fine for my needs so far.  I am not sure how much I will use it beyond this project.  Though, there are more slabs.    I guess it's a lot cheaper than a bigger table saw with out feed tables

There is a dozen ways to cut an occasional slab in less time than reading this thread.
Basically you just want the saw and looking for an excuse to get it. [big grin]
Don't let rational thinking prevent you from buying a new tool. [poke]

 

[tallgrass]

Rational thinking will allow you to defend the purchase to your better half. It is always better to have you story gamed out so you don't sound like a total idiot. This way you at least go down swinging.  [eek] [big grin]

 

[rmhinden]

With today's eBay discount, I went ahead and ordered it.  15% off, no tax or shipping.

I am making the bench for my wife

 

[Svar]

With today's eBay discount, I went ahead and ordered it.  15% off, no tax or shipping.
I am making the bench for my wife

The saw might also be handy someday building a dog house.  [big grin]

 

[GoingMyWay]

With today's eBay discount, I went ahead and ordered it.  15% off, no tax or shipping.

I am making the bench for my wife

You're not gonna regret the purchase!

 

[jarbroen]

I made the move to the TS75 for the same reason.
I justified the purchase by selling the TS55 though.  I couldn't see a reason to have both saws.

The 55 with stock blade just isn't setup for ripping hardwoods very easily.  I tried in 2X maple and it was a PITA.
When I started getting 8/4 walnut and 3" maple slabs for furniture I knew I had a good reason to upgrade.
Plus, I figured the difference in cost between the 75 and selling my 55 was about what a ripping blade would cost for the 55.

The stock blade on the 75 has been great for ripping walnut and maple slabs.  Cuts through it no problem.  It's also pretty decent at cutting baltic birch ply.  It leaves a nice clean edge.
I have also noticed that the 75 is more stable on start and exit of a cut.  Must be the longer base gives it more stability when you are on the track but only partially on the wood surface beneath.
It's a bit heavier but that really hasn't bothered me.

My only real complaint about the 75 is the stupid hose connector.  It seems to get stuck one way or another and then it pops out of the sleeve on the saw.  I don't remember having as many issues with the connector on the 55.  Oh, the splinter guard on the 55 seems to work a little better than the 75.  I get a little bit more dust blowing out the side of the 75.

Overall I'm super happy that I decided to upgrade to the 75.  It's an excellent fit for my needs.

 

[ben_r_]

Great use of the eBay 15% off coupon! I hope they keep doing those! They've done them a couple times before already.

 

[Gregor]

The 55 with stock blade just isn't setup for ripping hardwoods very easily.  I tried in 2X maple and it was a PITA.
When I started getting 8/4 walnut and 3" maple slabs for furniture I knew I had a good reason to upgrade.
Plus, I figured the difference in cost between the 75 and selling my 55 was about what a ripping blade would cost for the 55.

The stock blade on the 75 has been great for ripping walnut and maple slabs.  Cuts through it no problem.  It's also pretty decent at cutting baltic birch ply.  It leaves a nice clean edge.

Look at this again after the brand new blade on the TS 75 got to the state of the one you had in the TS 55.

Selection (and state) of the blade for the particular task can (and most likely: will) make a huge difference, it's a good idea to pick the blade according to the job.

Oh, the splinter guard on the 55 seems to work a little better than the 75.

You'll have to set the blade deep enough (especially on thinner sheets you'll have to go deeper) to have it cut at the actual position of the splinter guard.

I get a little bit more dust blowing out the side of the 75.

A piece of gaffer over the arbor access hole (the square hole on the side) should improve extraction.

 

[Kevin D.]

Use a 35mm hose.  Makes a huge diff.

 

[rmhinden]

I thought I would report back.

The TS75 arrived.  The first step was to align the saw to my existing track.  Read posts on FOG, the supplemental manual, and talked to Festool service, and needed a new Torx 20 screwdriver.  It took a couple of tries to get it aligned, but seems to be reasonable, I made test cuts with the TS55 and TS75 on some a 1" piece of cherry.  The TS75 cuts through it much easier

Before cutting the slab, decided I needed a longer rail.  It fit in my car with an inch to spare.

Then did the rip and cross cuts on the redwood slab.  It cuts it like butter, I am very pleased with the results.  Very clean cut! 

BTW, dust collection is better with some gaffers tape over the opening on the TS75.

Thanks for all of the advice.

 

[ScotF]

My only real complaint about the 75 is the stupid hose connector.  It seems to get stuck one way or another and then it pops out of the sleeve on the saw.  I don't remember having as many issues with the connector on the 55.  Oh, the splinter guard on the 55 seems to work a little better than the 75.  I get a little bit more dust blowing out the side of the 75.

You can buy the new style hose connector - works much better and more rigid. Still moves some, but does not flop around like the old-style. Plus you can use the dust bag.