TS 75 vibrates and parallel guide not square

[Kevinn]

I just got my Ts 75 this week. It is normal for the Ts 75 to vibrates for few seconds when I pull the trigger ? I have been using the parallel guide not cutting perfect 90 degreed

 

[semenza]

Hi,

Welcome to the FOG!  [smile]

The Festool saws have electronic speed control components. When the saw is adjusting for the load, whether increasing or decreasing, you will often hear that action taking place. It sounds like a grinding vibrating noise. But if that's what your saw is doing and it goes away and cuts properly it is OK.

By parallel guide do you mean the separate "rip" guide that attaches to the saw?

Have you used it on the track?

Check to see that the blade is seated properly with the washer fit flat and into the key way.

If you are unsure you can call Festool service during regular business hours  on weekdays. They are very helpful.

Seth

 

[Kevinn]

The saw cut good, it just vibrate a little at first from the electronic speed control.

I mean the parallel Guides (495717). I use it to cut the 4 x 8 ft sheet.

 

[TOOLTOWN]

The parallel guides do just that, guide you to be parallel to each previous cut.  Not perpendicular.

Just set up the track with a large square, or by measuring to be sure of square.

Ken

 

[Kevinn]

I thought the parallel guide would give me a perfect 90 degree cut and repeatability

 

[TOOLTOWN]

Unfortunately, no.  That is where the MFT setup excels.

Ken

 

[ajones]

You do need to set the parrallel guides before you can use them the first time to ensure accuracy

 

[RDMuller]

Take a look at the 3 videos on this Festool Channel.  They pretty much explain the use of the parallel guide and the parallel guide extensions
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL02B2683AE384BED4

For the perpendicular cuts, the MFT table is great.  If you don't have one, get a large square such as a Woodpecker 18 or 24 that has a drop edge on it to place your Festool rail and saw off it.

Another alternative is to make your own square with a drop edge ("hook") and align the fail of it.

You will appreciate these tools as you gain experience with them.

 

[JeromeM]

I thought the parallel guide would give me a perfect 90 degree cut and repeatability

If the board is first cut to a perfect 90 degrees  (square) then indeed you will get "a perfect 90 degree cut and repeatability"

But if the board is not square you will get perfect not square cut and repeatability

They do exactly as is on the tin. They give repeatable parallel cuts.  They are designed to only register from the edge of the board that is parallel to the cit being made, not the side of the board.

If you are not getting parallel cuts then there are two possible reasons, the first is that you are setting the guides too close together, there should be a gap of about 5mm to 10mm between the guide and the side of the board. The second reason would be that you are setting the stops at different distances. You should check the calibration.

 

[Kevinn]

I was wrong, I just assume that parallel guide will give me the 90 degree cut.  I should first line up the rail with a big square made the first cut than it will be 90 degree from that. Thanks for all you guys help, now I understand. I did get the MFT table I will mess with it in tomorrow.

RDMuller, Great videos ! How accurate is the A square you mention in the video. I always use the Woodpecker's stuff, but they don't have the large square like that.

 

[rmwarren]

Kevinn, welcome to the FOG.

I use a simple homemade t-square for my initial squaring cuts. It is made of 2 pieces of 1/4" by 2" aluminum each 20-24" long, the bottom piece extends under the guide rail. It is simple and easy to make.

[attachthumb=#]

Note the 5 screws connecting them, the top piece is drilled with 1/4" holes and the bottom piece is tapped M6. This gives a tad of movement to adjust it to an exact 90 degrees.

One other little trick is to put a piece of painters tap on the trues edge, this way I always know which edge to use as my reference for the parallel cuts later.

RMW

 

[Kevinn]

Great idea Richard ! What are those 2 Black pieces connected to the rail guide ?

 

[Richard D.]

Before spending the money for the Woodpecker square with it's short tee I would consider a drywall square from the BORG.

 

[rmwarren]

Great idea Richard ! What are those 2 Black pieces connected to the rail guide ?

They are plastic clips from a project I did a on the FOG while back, the link is here.

[attachthumb=#]

[attachthumb=#]

There are a couple 5/16" shoulder bolts in the AL plate, those clips slide over them to secure the guide rail to the t-square. It is nice but not totally necessary, I tend to fiddle around with jigs a bit more than is truly productive...  [doh]

RMW

 

[RDMuller]

I was wrong, I just assume that parallel guide will give me the 90 degree cut.  I should first line up the rail with a big square made the first cut than it will be 90 degree from that. Thanks for all you guys help, now I understand. I did get the MFT table I will mess with it in tomorrow.

RDMuller, Great videos ! How accurate is the A square you mention in the video. I always use the Woodpecker's stuff, but they don't have the large square like that.

The A Square can be very accurate, but repeatability is really an issue with no thicker beefed-up edges to place against both the rail and the back edge on the MFT at the same time.  It has the same problem that way as a carpenters square, but it is accurate.

I don't know what I was thinking when I wrote the note on making your own squaring device.  Just cut a piece of 2' by 2' 3/4" plywood by whatever means you have available until you get one corner that you are positive is 90 degrees.  Take the thickest black marker and write 90 degrees on that corner.  Then write "SAVE" on the board and store it in a place where you can find it, but not likely to grab and cut up.  Use this to square the MFT rail and fence.

I appreciate the comment on the video.  The 3rd one is approaching 118,000 views

 

[Kevinn]

I have a Work Pecker 1281 precision square is very accurate but is only 12". The larger square is more precise. I did what you said and is working great.
BTW I really happy with the TS 75. My next purchase is the sander.