TS55 and 8/4 Lumber

[Steve F]

Hi all,

I need some advice.  I have a TS55 and it's great, but I recently got a couple of 8/4 walnut flitches that I was to glue up to make a table top.  My plan was to rip the edges to be jointed with the TS55 and then do a 3rd rip (like in the video with Bob Marino).  Problem is that the TS55 doesn't really seem to have enough muscle for the wood.  When doing the first two rip, it struggled and tripped the GFI outlet a couple of times before finishing the cut.  Was finally able to get through it - but it's not pretty.  So, as I see it, I have three choices:

1.  Break down and buy a TS75.  Obviously the most expensive option.
2.  Joint the edges with a hand plane.  No a big deal, but will produce more sweat than #1
3.  Do 1/2 the cut from the top and 1/2 from the bottom.  The would work on the first two rips, but not on the third because I can't imagine flipping the slabs over and getting them perfectly lined up for the second 1/2 of the final rip. 

Any advice?

Thanks in advance,

Steve

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Where in NJ are you?  You can PM me if you'd prefer.

 

[Steve F]

Pennington

 

[awdriven]

If you think you'll be doing this much, the new ripping blade for the TS55 works very well. I just cut some 8/4 White Oak and the TS55 cut it with no problems at full speed using a CT on the same outlet. The cut quality is actually much better than people were telling me it would be.

Ken, that Cedar glue-up I gave you was cut with the ripping blade.

 

[mouppe]

I have been in your situation before and this is what I did. (I have a TS55 too and needed to cut up some 8/4 and 12/4 boards.)

Once I took them to a friend who is a professional cabinetmaker, asked him to rip them up for me and gave him a bottle of claret!
Another time, I took them to the lumber store and paid $20 to have them dimensioned.

I don't think you will be able to do a good job with the TS55 to be honest, and is it worth buying the TS75 unless you foresee more jobs like this? I always clean up my edges with a hand plane anyway- I have the Lie Nielsen low angle jack plane and it finishes an edge in seconds. So I would recommend you take a look at getting one of these planes anyway.

Richard.

 

[AlexThePalex]

There's no shame in breaking down.  [wink]

Can't have too much powertools anyway, so .......

 

[Steve F]

I don't think you will be able to do a good job with the TS55 to be honest, and is it worth buying the TS75 unless you foresee more jobs like this? I always clean up my edges with a hand plane anyway- I have the Lie Nielsen low angle jack plane and it finishes an edge in seconds. So I would recommend you take a look at getting one of these planes anyway.

Richard.

Funny you should mention that because my L-N Low Angle Jack just arrived Wednesday, but I'm not allowed to open it till Father's Day.  I would probably use my L-N #8 (it's a monster) to do the edge, but was hoping to rely on Festool rather than my aging eyes to make the line perfect.  Especially after seeing how easy it was in that video.  I apologize for not remembering whose it was.  I just remember Bob making the cut.

Steve

 

[Steve F]

If you think you'll be doing this much, the new ripping blade for the TS55 works very well. I just cut some 8/4 White Oak and the TS55 cut it with no problems at full speed using a CT on the same outlet. The cut quality is actually much better than people were telling me it would be.

New ripping blade?  I guess I haven't been paying attention.  I'm on it.

Steve 

 

[mouppe]

I don't think you will be able to do a good job with the TS55 to be honest, and is it worth buying the TS75 unless you foresee more jobs like this? I always clean up my edges with a hand plane anyway- I have the Lie Nielsen low angle jack plane and it finishes an edge in seconds. So I would recommend you take a look at getting one of these planes anyway.

Richard.

Funny you should mention that because my L-N Low Angle Jack just arrived Wednesday, but I'm not allowed to open it till Father's Day.  I would probably use my L-N #8 (it's a monster) to do the edge, but was hoping to rely on Festool rather than my aging eyes to make the line perfect.  Especially after seeing how easy it was in that video.  I apologize for not remembering whose it was.  I just remember Bob making the cut.

Steve

Man, you will come to love that plane. It is so fast and easy to setup. I whip it out all the time to straighten an edge as I don't have a jointer plane.

 

[Steve R]

Steve F,

I do a lot of on site work and have both the TS55 and TS75. I was building some custom solid cheery bi-folds, pocket door and pantry doors. Attached to a CT22 (set to full power) and the TS 55 was just not able to get the work done. Some of my problem was the Wiring on site was limited every thing was 15 amp and had lights and outlets on the one circuit. TS 55 was both tripping the breaker and then seemed to be overheating. I was not pushing it at all just easing it along.

When I go over 4/4 pull and am on a 15 amp out comes the TS75 and I look for a second circuit. I do find that the TS 75 seems to work in some places that the TS 55 wont even on thinner stuff.

I was in a underground garage for a condo complex, Trying to cut two 3/4 ply 4' x 8' at the same time,wouldn't work with the TS55 and the CT22. Found I was on a 15 amp... so found another outlet and with 100 foot of cord I was able to cut one. (didn't even try two any more) with no dust.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[DustyLeigh]

Just last week I had exactly the same problems cutting 8/4 walnut.. What worked for me was first making a pass about half way thru, and following that with a second pass that finished the cut. I must say I was disappointed in my ts55. I used a planer to smooth out the edges. Actually this problem is what made me go ahead and get a planer.

 

[GhostFist]

I say you joint it by hand.

 

[awdriven]

What blades are you guys using when you have these experiences?

 

[Steve F]

What blades are you guys using when you have these experiences?

I was using the universal 28-tooth blade. 

 

[Steve R]

What blades are you guys using when you have these experiences?

I was using the 495377 48 tooth.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[tbellemare]

I'm very curious how one reaches deep enough to cut 8/4 with a TS 55. I have both the 55 and 75 and I would always pull out the 75 for a cut that deep.

Am I missing something or is there a trick to using a TS 55 to cut more than about 50mm deep while on a guide rail?

Can someone please elaborate?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[semenza]

I'm very curious how one reaches deep enough to cut 8/4 with a TS 55. I have both the 55 and 75 and I would always pull out the 75 for a cut that deep.

Am I missing something or is there a trick to using a TS 55 to cut more than about 50mm deep while on a guide rail?

Can someone please elaborate?

Thanks,

Tom

50mm is almost exactly 8/4 + 5mm for the guide rail. It will just make it. If it is a bit shy then the last 1mm can be removed with a utility knife or what ever.

Seth

 

[semenza]

Hi,

The 48 tooth blade is not designed for ripping (solid wood). Yes it will do some rips and I use it for that sometimes. But anything thick or dense will really tax it.  So I use the panther. Yup the Panther rip blade leaves a messy edge but it really cuts. I know some have had good luck with the universal but I found that it was not a clean enough cut to use. I figure since I need to clean ( joint ) from the universal I might as well use the rip blade and have no trouble making the cut.

I like that two pass idea though, going to have to try it.

Seth

 

[pdlandgang]

I did the same thing with my TS55 on some 8/4 red oak.  I actually had the saw shut down from overheating (I was cutting a board in to several pieces).  After that happened, I purchased the Panther blade and made the cut in two passes.  I always ended up cleaning up the edges some.  Used either my jointer or if it were a little to rough I would just ever so slight move my guide rail over and take a second pass with my TS55 with the good blade installed.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I did the same thing with my TS55 on some 8/4 red oak.  I actually had the saw shut down from overheating (I was cutting a board in to several pieces).  After that happened, I purchased the Panther blade and made the cut in two passes.  I always ended up cleaning up the edges some.  Used either my jointer or if it were a little to rough I would just ever so slight move my guide rail over and take a second pass with my TS55 with the good blade installed.

That's the way to do it. Rip with the ripping blade then move the guide rail back about 1mm, bring the offcut board about a mm closer, and make another pass with the fine blade installed. A little bit of void makes a big difference when using the fine blade.

If the boards bowed after the first pass with the ripping blade (which most boards do, even a lot of plywood bows after ripping) push them back together and rip again, after adjusting the guide rail.