TS55 best practises

Joined
Dec 27, 2009
Messages
4
Hi Folks, I have finally got my TS55, after years of putting it off. I will be using it mostly for ripping plywood for cabinet making. I am looking for any tips or advise for using my TS55. More specifically, I want to find the fastest methods for measuring and marking my sheets and then lining up my guide rail and making the most accurate cuts. Thanks in advance, for any help that may come. cheers [tongue]

HI Again, I am starting to figure out the search option for the forum. I am finding a lot of good tips.  [smile]
 
Funwithfestool said:
Hi Folks, I have finally got my TS55, after years of putting it off. I will be using it mostly for ripping plywood for cabinet making. I am looking for any tips or advise for using my TS55. More specifically, I want to find the fastest methods for measuring and marking my sheets and then lining up my guide rail and making the most accurate cuts. Thanks in advance, for any help that may come. cheers [tongue]

HI Again, I am starting to figure out the search option for the forum. I am finding a lot of good tips.  [smile]

Welcome to the Festool Owners Group! Yes, the Search function is very useful, and since the TS55 is one of the most popular Festool power tools, you'll find lots and lots of posts about it.

Also have a look at the Consolidated List of Festool Links which is "a collection of links to Internet reviews, videos, brochures, user manuals etc, all related to Festool equipment and accessories".

One of the most important links in that list is for Rick Christopherson's Supplemental manual for the TS55 as it gives a wealth of information about the saw.

If you have any specific questions that you can't find the answer to, then just ask!

Forrest

 
Joel,

Welcome to the Forum.  Cutting down plywood for cabinets is one of the tasks that the TS55 excels at.  There are several methods out there.  It might be helpful to know which rail (s) you have.  I ask that, because if you have rails long enough to go the long dimension of plywood that might change the suggestions for methods.

So, what rail(s) do you have?

Peter
 
Joel,

I'm going to make an assumption that you also have the required parts to attach two rails together.  Your question was how to quickly measure and cut.  Here are some ideas, I'm sure others will chime in.

When using pencil marks, I use a .5 mm mechanical pencil.  Finer the better.  John Lucas has posted that he uses razor blades stuck into the plywood.  The idea is that you stick the blades in and then slide your rail to them.  Once they hit, remove the blades and go.  Others use a story stick or some sort and then pencil or razor blades. 

Once you have your marks or blades on / in the wood, then you move the guiderail to them.  I have experienced the guiderail dance.  Go to one end, adjust to line, go to other end...

Then the first end has moved.  I was looking for a post before I typed this and did not find it.  But I believe that Per wrote sometime in the past that he was given a tip by one of the Festool trainers on how to eliminate or reduce the guide rail adjustment dance.  When you put your guiderail down the first time to align with your first mark, put the saw on the rail.  Then go the other end and move to your mark.  Check the original end.  The weight of the saw helps keep the rail from moving.

I do my cuts the long dimension first on a sacrificial foam foam sheet.  Then cut the short dimensions.

I have no doubt others will chime in, but that's my method.

Peter
 
One tip I keep reminding myself to use - be sure the guide rail is set up so the blade is cutting into the waste side of the cut.  Sometimes I still get it wrong, so I have learned to double-check it.  Seems kind of obvious, but the guide rail can be placed on either side of the pencil marks - one way good and one not so good.
 
Peter Halle said:
Joel,

I'm going to make an assumption that you also have the required parts to attach two rails together.  Your question was how to quickly measure and cut.  Here are some ideas, I'm sure others will chime in.

When using pencil marks, I use a .5 mm mechanical pencil.  Finer the better.  John Lucas has posted that he uses razor blades stuck into the plywood.  The idea is that you stick the blades in and then slide your rail to them.  Once they hit, remove the blades and go.  Others use a story stick or some sort and then pencil or razor blades. 

Once you have your marks or blades on / in the wood, then you move the guiderail to them.  I have experienced the guiderail dance.  Go to one end, adjust to line, go to other end...

Then the first end has moved.  I was looking for a post before I typed this and did not find it.  But I believe that Per wrote sometime in the past that he was given a tip by one of the Festool trainers on how to eliminate or reduce the guide rail adjustment dance.  When you put your guiderail down the first time to align with your first mark, put the saw on the rail.  Then go the other end and move to your mark.  Check the original end.  The weight of the saw helps keep the rail from moving.

I do my cuts the long dimension first on a sacrificial foam foam sheet.  Then cut the short dimensions.

I have no doubt others will chime in, but that's my method.

Peter

Actually, I was present at the first Festool Fantasy Camp in Henderson, NV when Per taught all of us, including the Festool training staff, how to eliminate that Guide Rail dance.  As you wrote, the key was to align the "start of cut" end of the guide rail with your first mark, set the saw on the rail, then go to the other end and move the guide rail to your other mark.  This also assumes that you initially placed the guide rail reasonably close to your marks.

I've tried the razor blades technique but found it annoying as the blades were hard to insert and would not reliably stay in position when using them with birch plywood.  The results would probably be better if used with softer sheet materials.  For that reason, I prefer either pencil marks, or use of some repeat cutting guide if multiple ripcuts of the same dimension are needed.

Dave R.
 
Good advice above.  Couple of other thoughts... be sure to adjust the fit of the saws onto the rail so that any slop is gone, but the saw still slides smoothly.  The trick to getting the rails joined accurately is to get the connector screws slightly snug, run the saw back and forth over the joint till it slides totally smoothly, then tighten the screws.

As with any new toy tool, try some warm-up cuts on scrap to develop your technique.  Don't start the cut right on the end of the rail, the saw needs to be sitting firmly when you make that plunge.  Read the threads on cutting tables, support for the workpiece.  A sagging workpiece is not a good idea.  When you are making those warmup cuts, practice on the dimensions of wood you will be using and note what metric depth setting you need - write those settings down on the side of the saw - you will be glad you did.  Different folk like different kerf depths, for instance, I set the saw to 30mm to cut 3/4 sheet stock (thickness of the guiderail + thickness of the stock + modest kerf in sacrificial support stock).

Hope this helps, let us know how its going!
 
Funwithfestool said:
... More specifically, I want to find the fastest methods for measuring and marking my sheets and then lining up my guide rail and making the most accurate cuts...

Hmmm, the fastest method will be to not mark at all, but rather use a parallel guide.  Festool now makes a parallel guide for aligning their guide rails - or you can make your own version to accomplish this.  Either way, some type of parallel guide should prove much faster at this task.

On Edit:  I do not own Festool's paralllel guide, but it may not work as well with your two 55" rails as it would with a single longer rail.  Before Festool offered their new accessory some of us made our own somewhat different versions -- and, to rip full sized sheet goods with two (joined) rails, a single piece jig like I have will make the process both fast and accurate.  see pic
 
Funwithfestool said:
Hi Folks, I have finally got my TS55, after years of putting it off. I will be using it mostly for ripping plywood for cabinet making. I am looking for any tips or advise for using my TS55. More specifically, I want to find the fastest methods for measuring and marking my sheets and then lining up my guide rail and making the most accurate cuts. Thanks in advance, for any help that may come. cheers [tongue]

HI Again, I am starting to figure out the search option for the forum. I am finding a lot of good tips.  [smile]

First of all I have to say that I love your Avatar!  Dexter is one of my favourate shows!  I can't believe how season 4 ended!!!

Welcome to the forums!

Chad
 
/quote]

First of all I have to say that I love your Avatar!  Dexter is one of my favourate shows!  I can't believe how season 4 ended!!!

Welcome to the forums!

Chad
[/quote]

Thanks Chad. I am a slow learning, so I just finished season 2 and I am loving it.

I would like to thank everyone else for there posts, I am still digesting all of the new info. I am in the middle of several jobs and I will post more shortly. Thanks to all.
 
Corwin said:
Funwithfestool said:
... More specifically, I want to find the fastest methods for measuring and marking my sheets and then lining up my guide rail and making the most accurate cuts...

On Edit:  I do not own Festool's paralllel guide, but it may not work as well with your two 55" rails as it would with a single longer rail. 

FWIW and IMHO the FS-PA work just as well on joined rails as single ones
 
Back
Top