I need to crosscut a 1 1/2" thick piece of hard maple countertop. The ends will be exposed. Can a TS55 do that with minimal saw marks and no burning? My Porter Cable failed miserably and I've had my eye on the TS55 for a while now. Other usage will be furniture making tasks (I don't own a table saw) and general remodeling (I'm a hobbyist).
TS55 Capability
- Thread starter paulsomlo
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I just did some ends and a sink cut on John Boos hard maple countertop about a week ago. The TS 55 worked perfectly as did the PSB 300 Jigsaw for the rounded sink corners.
It didn't take long using the guide rail, 'no need to clamp or anything like that. Just set it in place, plunge and move forward. I was using the stock blade (491952).
Tom
It didn't take long using the guide rail, 'no need to clamp or anything like that. Just set it in place, plunge and move forward. I was using the stock blade (491952).
Tom
Michael Kellough
Member
paulsomlo said:
Not to talk you out of buying the Festool but the PC should have been able to make that cut.
If the blade is dull and/or dirty the Festool will struggle too.
I can't see the TS55 making this cut without some burning. It will cut up to 3/4" pretty good and clean with a new sharp blade but even that's a struggle with a worn one. I don't have any experience with the TS75 but I'm assuming that would be better. I use the 55 for trimming doors up to 1.75" and it does it ok, but it's not happy about it. Does the cut have to be that clean? Aren't you going to sand and/or polish the edge after cutting?
Chris...
Chris...
Per Swenson
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Paul,
One More question.
There is Maple and there is Rock Hard Maple.
Maple is hard. Rock hard is just that.
Maple is usually known as broadleaf Maple.
Rock Maple is known as sugar maple.
Do you know which one you have?
Per
One More question.
There is Maple and there is Rock Hard Maple.
Maple is hard. Rock hard is just that.
Maple is usually known as broadleaf Maple.
Rock Maple is known as sugar maple.
Do you know which one you have?
Per
Per Swenson
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I am sorry,
It helps if I go back and read stuff.
The TS55 will have no problem crosscutting hard maple.
How I missed that, I dunno.
Per
It helps if I go back and read stuff.
The TS55 will have no problem crosscutting hard maple.
How I missed that, I dunno.
Per
Michael,
The blade in the PC was fairly new, a thin kerf finish blade. The saw veered off course at times, left burn and saw marks, and oddest of all, the cut was pretty far off of vertical, although I had checked the saw with an accurate square before using it.
The blade in the PC was fairly new, a thin kerf finish blade. The saw veered off course at times, left burn and saw marks, and oddest of all, the cut was pretty far off of vertical, although I had checked the saw with an accurate square before using it.
bonesbr549
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Michael Kellough said:
I have the PC with a forrest WWII and it cuts perfectly and not burns. It's glue ready after the cut. I'd look into the blade as well. I got a good deal on the WWII at coastal tools I have the WWII on my TS & the WWI on the RAS. I am hoping to sell the RAS & replace with the Kapex.
Tim Sproul
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- Jan 22, 2007
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paulsomlo said:
You should take this cut in stages. 3 cuts to get through the thickness. Make these so you are 1/32 to 1/64 proud of the final dimension. Then tap the rail over to make the final saw cut as a single, full-depth cut.
Yeah, the Festool saw or any other decent circular saw can do the cut in a single pass.....but just because you can, doesn't mean you should.
Michael Kellough
Member
paulsomlo said:
With this additional info I'll shift my blame to the thin blade and lack of guide rail. If the side of the shoe is truly parallel the blade use something straight to guide the saw and maintain pressure against the guide as you cut.
Or, order up the Festool right away. When you eventually get one you'll regret not getting it sooner.
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Paul:
I'm not just a Festool dealer but I use the products in real projects. I recently took a new shell and turned it into two apartments, both with Boos maple countertops. On the first, I used the TS 75 because I was concerned about the power. It worked great.
On the second (about a week ago), I used the TS 55 and it worked great. It is important to set up so that you can keep the saw moving, but that is true with any saw.
The Festool system has a cord, and suction hose with conical ribs that have to follow the saw, which is running along the guide rail. The ribs of the hose can cause the saw to want to stop so it's important to get set up properly before you start the cut.
I like to put the hose over my shoulder so I know it won't get caught. Festool sells a really nice kit for getting everything out of the way, but if you're just getting started, it's probably overkill.
Tom
I'm not just a Festool dealer but I use the products in real projects. I recently took a new shell and turned it into two apartments, both with Boos maple countertops. On the first, I used the TS 75 because I was concerned about the power. It worked great.
On the second (about a week ago), I used the TS 55 and it worked great. It is important to set up so that you can keep the saw moving, but that is true with any saw.
The Festool system has a cord, and suction hose with conical ribs that have to follow the saw, which is running along the guide rail. The ribs of the hose can cause the saw to want to stop so it's important to get set up properly before you start the cut.
I like to put the hose over my shoulder so I know it won't get caught. Festool sells a really nice kit for getting everything out of the way, but if you're just getting started, it's probably overkill.
Tom
The Fein hose will fit the saw. The fein vacs are a good match for the festool saws but you will definately want to get a CT when you start buying the festool sanders. You will never fully appreciate festool until you use the sanders/CT vac together. That and a C12.
Eiji
Eiji
The problem is the thin rim blade , on a deep cut like that it heats up too much and the rim tries to expand making the blade warp in the cut. I had a similar problem before and thought the blades were effed up , but after cooling down they were fine fer regular stuff again . For deep hard cuts like that I use a thick blade with fewer teeth and except that I may have some sanding to do but my cut will be straight .
Rik
Rik
leftistelf
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It's nothing a hand tool can't fix. If you have a hand plane (jointer or larger plane), you should clean the edge up anyway.
