TS55 cutting aluminium

[MrMac]

Hi, well I need to cut some 1/4" aluminium flat stock. (it's 2 1/2" wide by 1/4" thick, by 6' long - I use it for a straight edge to check if walls etc. are straight)

anyway I set up my 1400 router on my 9' TS55 track, and used a spiral bit. The cut wasn't great, so I did a "climbing" cut, very small bite. It was much better but I still have some visible chatter marks. The finish was shiny. (it is very straight though)

I was wondering if anyone here has used the aluminium cutting blade on their TS55. I want a dead straight, shiny no chatter mark finish.

My backup plan is to get an endmill cutter and use that with my 1400 router.

What is your experience with cutting aluminium?

thx

Mac.

 

[fdengel]

If this is just a one-off thing, I would suggest cleaning up the edge with a file, maybe sandpaper and/or polish, rather than invest in a blade or new bit just for that.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

The chatter is probably from using the spiral bit. You would probably be better off with a straight flute bit. More importantly, however, a climb cut will not result in a better finish on aluminum. It too will leave some chatter as the bit tries to push away from the cut. A climb cut in aluminum is very dangerous and there is nothing to be gained from it. So I wouldn't use that.

The TS55 will cut the aluminum with a clean edge but for the "machined" surface appearance you are looking for, the router is still the better choice. Here's what you could do:

Create a straight cut using the TS55. Then clamp a guide straightedge to the aluminum with a very small reveal. Because the aluminum is already straight, you will know if your straightedge reference is straight and be able to adjust accordingly. The only purpose of this part is to give you the machined appearance. Then using a pattern router bit, clean up the edge. This will allow you to keep the router firmly pressed both down and into the aluminum to reduce the chatter.

 

[mike_aa]

Another alternative is to use a 78" level (Stabila makes one).  Cost is more, but no worries about making the cut and you'll have two tools in one.

Mike A.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I've never been able to get a nice shiny cut on aluminum without lubrication.

I've tried different blades, bits, and speeds but the cut edge is never as nice
as when I simply spray WD-40 along the cut first.

A wax stick applied to a saw blade works well if the cut is short but it's kinda dangerous to apply.

 

[Bohdan]

Kerosene spread on the surface of the aluminium will also act as a lubricant and improves the cut.

 

[rst]

As a glazing contractor I, literally have cut thousands of feet of aluminum.  I use Makita 14 and 12" chop saws lubricated with WD-40 using AGE and Freud industrial aluminum blades.  There are specific lubs for aluminum but WD-40 works fine...we buy it by the gallon.  you do not need a continuous stream, just spritz the  blade occasionally, the thicker the material, the more spritzing,  As far as a finished cut, you will always need to sand or file.  We use a router for internal cutouts using ball end mills...but again you must clean up the edges.  If the cut is decent, you can scrape the edge with a stiff bladed knife (this works for plastic as well).  Aluminum is a gummy metal and will cling to blades.  I cut a lot of aluminum with my bandsaw using wood cutting blades and use a scrap piece of brass to run through my bandsaw to clear out aluminum after cutting.

 

[lawhoo]

What is the proper speed for cutting aluminum---whether with a TS 55 or a chop saw?

 

[wrightwoodwork]

Not 100% sure but on my table saw the speed chart shows 1-3 for aluminum

 

[#Tee]

i cut 1/16 angle alum on speed 6 with better results vs speed 2 on the ts55 all purpose blade.

 

[MrMac]

thanks for  the replies, some good advise there. I do own a stabila 78" level (and a 4', 32", 16"- hey they were on sale) but I find that the "edge" of the level isn't sharp enough to do what I need.

The aluminium bar is thin enough so that when I put it against a wall I can see if there is any daylight between the bar and the wall, so then I know where to shim. Yup, it's that level of accuracy! a high end house in west Vancouver. (it really is fun BTW we use playing cards for shims here and there.

I did use a straight bit initially, and it left chatter marks as well, so that's why I tried the spiral  bit. Better results, but not the mirror finish that I want. Ultimately it makes no difference, as I find that the bar as is now works just fine. I just want  it really sweet

I will try the WD40 lube, that sounds like a great idea. I also remember that I have a file holder somewhere in the garage, one of those Lee Valley things that hold a file so I can carefully run it along the length and keep it dead flat against the edge. (I think! haven't seen that holder for a few years)

Wish that I could get commission from Festool, there are three carpenters on site that are going to get the TS55 after I let them use mine for a bit Bwhahahahaha

 

[Lasse Pelkonen]

What is the proper speed for cutting aluminum---whether with a TS 55 or a chop saw?

The speed chart of saw blades can be found for example in the Festool UK`s online catalogue on page 46. There is some useful information about saw blades also on page 38.

http://view.digitalissue.co.uk/00000082/00019241/00087724/

 

[wow]

How about using a TS75?

I needed to cut a mounting plate for some floodlights and I had a piece of 1/8" aluminum that was 16" wide and about 12" deep, but I needed it to be about 18" wide or more. I was able to fit the lights on it at an angle, but then I needed to trim it up. Doing this on a table saw would have been a PITA, but with the track saw I just put a straight edge up against the edge of the light boxes and scribed a line. Put the guide rail up against it and did my cuts.

Pictures:

[attachthumb=1]

[attachthumb=2]

[attachthumb=3]

Cut quality before cleanup:

[attachthumb=4]