TS55 for Concrete Pavers?

aCircle

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I'm sure this has been asked before but the search feature is failing me.

I'm pretty sure I could cut 2" concrete pavers with my TS55F, right? I haven't had much experience with the diamond blade, or cutting concrete like that, so I'm also trying to be sure it's both possible and will provide satisfactory results.

For example: if I get clean and crisp edges on the concrete, do I need to worry about chipping for pavers? They're going in the garden pathway so it's nothing super high-end... but I still don't want large chunks breaking off because I didn't bevel the edge somehow.

What would you all recommend?
 
The guy on the New Yorkshire Workshop youtube channel uses diamond disks in his TS55 to cut porcelain slabs. Look for the videos of him laying a patio.
I'm pretty sure he's using diamond stone cutting blades.

Bob
 
You'll get a nice clean cut using a diamond blade however, it's going to be a long haul using a TS 55. The cement pavers I've cut were slightly thicker than 2-1/4". I used a 14" Milwaukee 6180 abrasive chop saw and replaced the abrasive blade with a segmented diamond blade. Even that combination was slow. Also consider that the TS 55 has a maximum cutting depth of 50 mm (1.9") on a guide rail and those pavers are close to 60 mm thick.
Further, the Festool PKD diamond blade is not the one to use if you're using the saw off of a guide rail. Any sideways pressure placed on the saw flexes the blade and yanks the brazed-on teeth off. This was a new PKD diamond blade before I attempted to cut 8" of clay flue liner which is only 3/4" thick.
 

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about 43:55 into this video

I believe these are the blades

no affiliation...make your own mind up about the potential damage to tools and yourself ;)

Bob
 
Interesting. How would I cut them if I were a contractor? Is there a specialty saw of some sort for this, or maybe I should rent one from ACE instead?
 
about 43:55 into this video

I believe these are the blades

no affiliation...make your own mind up about the potential damage to tools and yourself ;)

Bob

Interesting notes at the blade website above…

“Whilst these blades are all re purposed to work in carpentry saws, the inherent design of a plunge saw means it cuts on the upstroke which is the opposite way around to a tile saw or how you would naturally use an angle grinder. This can lead to chipping in some products. If it’s a product you’ve not cut before there is an element of trial and error as to the best way to cut it, either full depth in one pass or two or three passes at a much lower depth of cut.

As a rule of thumb we generally suggest running the saw at its full speed which tends to be in the region of 6,000rpm and trying a full depth cut to start with. If that isn’t giving the desired finish then it’s time to try shallower cuts.”
 
Interesting. How would I cut them if I were a contractor? Is there a specialty saw of some sort for this, or maybe I should rent one from ACE instead?
You'd normally use a wet saw which gives longer blade life because the blade is constantly cooled AND eliminates the dust because everything is wet. The dust elimination is a really big plus because when I was dry cutting the concrete pavers, I also set up a leaf blower to keep from breathing the dust and keep it away from my face. Dry cutting can be a real mess.

Just search for MK, Norton, Husqvarna, Ridgid...they all make wet cutters.

Rental is a good option if you can get everything laid out ahead of time to minimize rental costs. Menards, Home Depot, Ace are all good sources.
 
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Rent a wet saw for pavers, most yards have them. Dry cutting 2 inches of masonry would probably smoke a TS55 and make an enormous mess.

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