TS55 on guide rail doesn't cut at right angle to saw's base

[onyxoryx]

Crosscutting a 4" thick board I consistently get an slightly oblique angle instead of a right angle on a deep cut.

I'm using a TS 55, a 32" guide rail, and quick clamps. I measured the TS55 blade as exactly 90 degrees to the base. I clamped the guide rail with two quick clamps and I pressed down on the saw when cutting. It seems like the guide rail is tilting the saw slightly away from the cutting line.

Is my technique off? Could the guide be at fault? How do I fix this problem? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Tayler_mann]

Crosscutting a 4" thick board I consistently get an slightly oblique angle instead of a right angle on a deep cut.

I'm using a TS 55, a 32" guide rail, and quick clamps. I measured the TS55 blade as exactly 90 degrees to the base. I clamped the guide rail with two quick clamps and I pressed down on the saw when cutting. It seems like the guide rail is tilting the saw slightly away from the cutting line.

Is my technique off? Could the guide be at fault? How do I fix this problem? Thanks in advance for any help.

Make sure your cams screws on the base are nice and tight but still allow ease of movement along the track. You want zero play when the saw is on the track. Also, be sure that you are not putting uneven torque on the saw. If you it can cause a variance in your cuts. Take a scrap strip and practice doing lots of cuts with it over and over until you get a good feel for it. Also, invest in an Mft, or a Mft top and buy some precision rip dogs and bench dogs. It is a must for me with my TS.

 

[bkharman]

Crosscutting a 4" thick board I consistently get an slightly oblique angle instead of a right angle on a deep cut.

I'm using a TS 55, a 32" guide rail, and quick clamps. I measured the TS55 blade as exactly 90 degrees to the base. I clamped the guide rail with two quick clamps and I pressed down on the saw when cutting. It seems like the guide rail is tilting the saw slightly away from the cutting line.

Is my technique off? Could the guide be at fault? How do I fix this problem? Thanks in advance for any help.

Something doesn't line up here for me. You say you are doing this with a TS 55... On a rail. And you are cutting a 4" thick piece of wood. The 55 will only do about 2" on the rail, so are you planning on flipping the board and doing the same cut underneath to get through (most of) the full 4" depth?

If that is the case, there are a few other things to consider. What type of wood?
What blade?  If it isn't a low tooth count, you probably will have issues.
What speed is the saw on?
What speed are you pushing it through the workpiece?

I can definitely see the blade deflecting on any of those items above.

Cheers. Bryan.

 

[fixit]

I agree with above, a TS55 will not cut a 4" thick board.

You haven't got your part numbers mixed up ?

Are you perhaps using a jig saw ??

 

[Tayler_mann]

I agree with above, a TS55 will not cut a 4" thick board.

You haven't got your part numbers mixed up ?

Are you perhaps using a jig saw ??

I believe the OP's statement was worded incorrectly, I think. I think he met he was cross cutting a 4" piece. In which, using clamps for that might not be your best way about doing it. Thats how I took the statement made.

 

[semenza]

Crosscutting a 4" thick board I consistently get an slightly oblique angle instead of a right angle on a deep cut.

I'm using a TS 55, a 32" guide rail, and quick clamps. I measured the TS55 blade as exactly 90 degrees to the base. I clamped the guide rail with two quick clamps and I pressed down on the saw when cutting. It seems like the guide rail is tilting the saw slightly away from the cutting line.

Is my technique off? Could the guide be at fault? How do I fix this problem? Thanks in advance for any help.

        If you are pressing fairly hard  especially if using two hands with one on the front handle, that could be the cause. It can be pretty easy to introduce a slight tilt in the direction you specify by pushing hard on the front handle. The orientation of the handle would tend to cause leverage in that direction.
 
      If that's the case try doing most of the down and forward pushing with the center (trigger) handle and just resting your hand on the front handle.

      Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

Seth

 

[onyxoryx]

Thanks for all of the above responses.

Yes, it is TS55, not a jigsaw. Yes, the board really is 4" thick. I've made two passes, one from each side of the board, to get through the full thickness.

I will check again to make sure there is no play in how the saw rides on the track, but last time I checked it was good.

I think now it is likely I was pressing too hard on the front handle. I'll practice a bit and then try again.

 

[nickao]

That's a tricky cut for the best of us even under perfect circumstances. It takes practice.

I do everything I can including jumping to a different tool just to avoid having to flip a piece like that.

Luckily I have a shop full of tools to work with though.

 

[MrToolJunkie]

Are both sides angled? That is a tough cut. I would probably make several passes at deeper depths on each side.

 

[Roseland]

Is it possible that you're pushing down too hard at the start of the cut, putting a twist on the rail?

I generally use an MFT, and support the rail before the wood I am cutting with a similar thickness offcut.

Andrew

 

[ear3]

You sure the saw is dead on 90? The 55 has a bit of a history with sometimes having problems getting set at a perfect right angle, owing to the lack of a positive stop at the front (an issue they only just rectified). While it may seem like it's dead on cutting 3/4 material, stretched out to 2 inches a few .1 degrees off can start to make a difference.