Ts55 question
- Thread starter j123j
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mouppe
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http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/ts-55-eq-plunge-cut-circular-saw-specs-561174.html
With the guiderail, the maximum depth of cut is 1 15/16". Without it, it is 2 1/8".
Welcome to the fog.
With the guiderail, the maximum depth of cut is 1 15/16". Without it, it is 2 1/8".
Welcome to the fog.
jmbfestool
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Rutabagared said:
Well the saw will cut 55mm but when placed on the rail you lose 4/5 mm so only cuts 51/50 mm and same goes with the 75.
(easier to say it in mm then 1 15/16 rubbish lol sorry [poke])
JMB
j123j:
I went through a similar scenario when deciding to purchase my TS as I was looking for the capability to rip hardwoods. It was recommended by some to purchase the TS5 because when the extra depth was needed I could just cut to max depth, flip the piece over, and cut the rest of the way through.
In the end, I decided to purchase the TS75 primarily for its extra power for use with hardwoods. I've used it to rip both 1" yellow birch and 1" hard maple and it goes through each like butter. I recently had the opportunity to use the TS55 at the onsite cabinetry end-user training class in Lebanon, Indiana, last week. The 55 was a nice saw, lightweight, and was good for cutting sheetgoods. However, I noticed a few things that made me appreciate my TS75.
We used the TS55 to cut some plywood and I had to slow down a little bit compared to my TS75. Not that its a race, but with the TS75 I just cut and don't really have to consider the speed at which I move the saw across the guiderail. I also began to actually appreciate the extra weight of my TS75... it seems as though the extra weight lends itself to the saw feeling more stable on the guiderail.
Now, I will say that I started out using a TS75 and had never used a TS55 until last week. So, my experience may be that I just became used to using the TS75 and developed the muscle memory that made it very comfortable and made the TS55 seem just a little bit out of place in my hand.
Good Luck,
Corey
U.P. of Michigan
I went through a similar scenario when deciding to purchase my TS as I was looking for the capability to rip hardwoods. It was recommended by some to purchase the TS5 because when the extra depth was needed I could just cut to max depth, flip the piece over, and cut the rest of the way through.
In the end, I decided to purchase the TS75 primarily for its extra power for use with hardwoods. I've used it to rip both 1" yellow birch and 1" hard maple and it goes through each like butter. I recently had the opportunity to use the TS55 at the onsite cabinetry end-user training class in Lebanon, Indiana, last week. The 55 was a nice saw, lightweight, and was good for cutting sheetgoods. However, I noticed a few things that made me appreciate my TS75.
We used the TS55 to cut some plywood and I had to slow down a little bit compared to my TS75. Not that its a race, but with the TS75 I just cut and don't really have to consider the speed at which I move the saw across the guiderail. I also began to actually appreciate the extra weight of my TS75... it seems as though the extra weight lends itself to the saw feeling more stable on the guiderail.
Now, I will say that I started out using a TS75 and had never used a TS55 until last week. So, my experience may be that I just became used to using the TS75 and developed the muscle memory that made it very comfortable and made the TS55 seem just a little bit out of place in my hand.
Good Luck,
Corey
U.P. of Michigan
If 50mm ripping is your goal, and you have to do it repeatedly, I wouldn't recommend the TS55.
With the right blade it will rip 50mm on the rail, but for a decent cut you'll have to make te teeth stick out from the cut, at least by half the length.
So In earnest I'd say the practical ripping limit in hardwood on the rail would be more close to 45-46 mm, and that only with the right blade.
When on the edge, go for the bigger saw, unless it's a one-off job.
Just my 2 eurocents, as usual.
Regards,
Job
With the right blade it will rip 50mm on the rail, but for a decent cut you'll have to make te teeth stick out from the cut, at least by half the length.
So In earnest I'd say the practical ripping limit in hardwood on the rail would be more close to 45-46 mm, and that only with the right blade.
When on the edge, go for the bigger saw, unless it's a one-off job.
Just my 2 eurocents, as usual.
Regards,
Job
I have tried to rip 3m of 48mm oak with the Ts 55 once.It cut out twice before I decided I was being lazy.I had the Ts75 in the cms so I got it out.It sailed through.
I imagine Birch is easier to cut but even so I reckon for longer lengths of hardwoods of this thickness than say the odd door trim, the 75 is the saw for the job.In other words the 55 will do the job but it's at the limit.I agree with Corey and Job, for regular cutting of around 50mm go for the 75.Another 2 eurocents.
I imagine Birch is easier to cut but even so I reckon for longer lengths of hardwoods of this thickness than say the odd door trim, the 75 is the saw for the job.In other words the 55 will do the job but it's at the limit.I agree with Corey and Job, for regular cutting of around 50mm go for the 75.Another 2 eurocents.
jmbfestool
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Im sure you will! The TS55 is what started me of with the green stuff! Now I own LOTS of festool gear and im on this forum quite a lot really bit sad lol.
JMB
JMB
Brice Burrell
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Rutabagared said:
Joe, it's 5 mm.
