TS55 saw blade kerf widths

[dirtydeeds]

i purchased a laminate blade to cut trespa worktops at a cool 78 quid plus vat (approx 180 us dollars)

when i cut it fine shavings came off the splinter guard

out of curiosity i checked the kerf width and found it was wider than the standard blade, then found there were a number of different kerf widths for blades supplied by festool for the TS55

is there any specific reason for all the different kerf widths

 

[dirtydeeds]

perhaps its just optimsing purchace requirements of festool owners

 

[brandon.nickel]

They should still be able to adjust the blades so that the inside of the arbor lines up with the same relative location on the edge of the tooth.  A simple shim bonded to the inside of the blade would solve the problem.  We don't care how much the outside of the blade changes from blade to blade.  This is even something that could be fixed in the consumables line as a new set of blades referenced to a standard (I'd suggest the 48t that comes with the saw).

 

[Daviddubya]

Why not take all of your blades to a sharpener and have them ground to the size of the thinnest blade?  Seems like that would be a simple, one time solution.

ps - Christian O. has explained, below, why this is a bad idea.  Thanks, Christian.

 

[Christian93117]

The sawblades are optimized for the best possible combination of cutting quality, longevity and low vibration. Hence the different
kerf widths. Miles of cutting and a lot of tests are done to get to the best possible specifications. The above mentioned factors
have been more important in determining the best possible sawblade than the fact that the splinterguard might have to be
replaced, or a different guide rail has to be used, when a different saw blade is used.

Christian

 

[dirtydeeds]

thank you

 

[brandon.nickel]

I agree that we're looking for the best possible quality.  That's why we purchased these tools.  However, it seems very un-system-like to base your accuracy around a zero-clearance edge on the guide rail that gets destroyed the first time you change blades.  I don't know anyone that wants to dedicate a rail for each blade or change/adjust the rubber edge each time.  Changing the splinterguard is ok because it's a >30 second operation.  I would much prefer that the inner kerf sits at the same relative location.  If there's some documentation that the factory can share with the results of trying it that way (and why it was found unacceptable), I'd love to see it.  Until then, I have to wonder why people are avoiding using the panther blade at all and I have to compensate for a gap on a rail that I use with my laminate blade and the 48t.  It's very un-Festool-like.  No compromises, right?

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

Does anybody know if any of the blades have the SAME kerf? I just purchased a Universal blade for my TS55 for rip cuts, but before I use it I'd like to know if there's another blade that would have the same kerf as the Fine blade that comes standard with the TS55.

 

[Scott W.]

I would like to know all the kerf sizes also, I would like to make shim washers before I mess up the edge of my rails by swapping out a wider kerf blade.

Scott W.

 

[semenza]

Hi,

      Some of the blades have the same measured kerf on the blade.  However that doesn't mean that when it is spinning that the teeth are going act in the same manner and cut an identicle width kerf.  The difference in the blade kerf between the Fine (2.2mm) and Panther (2.5mm) is .3mm or .15 on one side. But the actual difference in the amount taken off the  guide rail splinter strip is more like 1.28mm or so.   If anyone is making shims they probably need to be more the thickness of what is actually removed from the splinter strip. Be careful that the shim doesn't end up thick enough to push the keys on the Festool blade washer out of the key ways.   BTW the kerf listed in the 2007 US catalog for the Universal (TS55) is 2.2mm, but the kerf listed on the package is 2.5mm I believe that the 2.5mm  is correct and the catalog is wrong.   If you do a search for " kerf"  you will find quite a few threads on this.
      If the shims work out please post the details.

Seth

 

[Daviddubya]

I would like to know all the kerf sizes also, I would like to make shim washers before I mess up the edge of my rails by swapping out a wider kerf blade.

Scott W.

In addition to knowing the saw kerf thickness, you also need to know the plate thickness.  If the plate thickness varies from one blade model to another, you need to take that into account in shimming the blades.  I am not saying the plates are different, but they might be.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Hi, Some of the blades have the same measured kerf on the blade.  However that doesn't mean that when it is spinning that the teeth are going act in the same manner and cut an identicle width kerf...

Seth

Exactly right, the much maligned (by me) Panther blade actual kerf varies from 3 to 6mm, just missing the aluminum of the guide rail.

 

[Daviddubya]

...Panther blade actual kerf varies from 3 to 6mm...

Michael - Does the thickness of the carbide vary that much?  Or is it the width of the cut in the material that varies?  Are you SURE your blade is not bent?

 

[Ned]

...Panther blade actual kerf varies from 3 to 6mm...

Michael - Does the thickness of the carbide vary that much?  Or is it the width of the cut in the material that varies?  Are you SURE your blade is not bent?

Gotta agree.  That's a huge variation.

 

[Michael Kellough]

...Panther blade actual kerf varies from 3 to 6mm...

Michael - Does the thickness of the carbide vary that much?  Or is it the width of the cut in the material that varies?  Are you SURE your blade is not bent?

Without measuring I'm pretty sure the carbide thickness is the same for all the teeth on my blade. The blade looks okay as far as flatness goes and sometimes the kerf is even and consistent right at 3mm or less for a foot or so. But, since it was new, it has had a dramatic tendency to aggressively expand it's kerf while cutting.

I could have a bad blade but I think it is the design of the Panther that makes it susceptible to being affected by variations in wood density and grain direction that can cause the teeth to veer off and overcut. I think the extreme rake and bevel angle of the teeth cause the teeth to follow the path of least resistance, which sometimes is off to the side of the cut line. Since the gullets are so deep the shoulders bend and allow the teeth to wander. Just my hypothosis to explain my blades behavior.

Mu solution was the buy the Universal blade which has performed far better than I hoped. I now use it 50% of the time and only switch to the Fine blade when the project warrents it.

 

[Ned]

This thread has convinced me that

1.  I should get a Universal Blade for my ATF55.

2.  I shouldn't use my Panther blade with the guide rail.  I don't know that I ever have, since my main use for the Panther is chopping up construction-grade 2x4s.

Thanks,
Ned

 

[Daviddubya]

One other thing that will impact the width of the blade kerf is sharpening.  The kerf size will get a bit smaller each time a blade is sharpened, although a very small amount.

ps - I was curious, so I measured the carbide on a couple of my Festool blades.  The kerf varies by only a few hundredths of a mm from tooth to tooth, measured with a digital caliper.  Some of the variation is the caliper operator, I'm sure.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I have a Panther blade and have yet to use it.  Instead, most of the time, I use the 28 tooth universal blade on my TS 55.  Although the specifications published by FestoolUSA indicate its kerf width to be the same as that of the fine 48 tooth ATB blade, I found myself cutting off more of the splinter guard strip on my guard rails.

Since the Panther blade is not intended to produce a "glue-line" ripped edge, you could make your own guide rail from a piece of 1/4" plywood to which is attached a hardwood rib for the base of your TS saw to ride in.  The first rip cut of your homemade guide rail will trim its edge.  Long ago a made a similar rail which I used with my Shopsmith to create a straightline rip on one edge of rough sawn lumber.  The only differences from the homemade Festool guide rail were use of a hardwood strip sized to fit the mitre gauge slot of the tablesaw (3/8" x 3/4") and some sandpaper glued to the top surface to help grip the board being straight-line ripped, and a simple stop at the back end to ensure the board doesn't slip lengthwise relative to this straight-lining jig.  Worked like a charm, and I still have it.  Wax the wooden guide strip to facilitate movement of the ripping jig relative to the saw.  I might try this one myself. 

Here are two other possibilities.  I haven't checked this one out - is it possible to engage the groove in the base of the saw with the open top raised rib at the back edge of the guide rail?  The base of the saw extending outward from the back rib of the guide rail would have to be shimmed to avoid cutting a beveled edge on the workpiece, but this could be accomplished with a piece of ~1/4" HDPE (UHMW plastic) or similar shim material.  Or simply clamp your guide rail and run the saw with its base resting completely on the workpiece to be ripped and abutted against the back edge of the guide rail.  Both of these assume you are not seeking the same degree of precision in your Panther rip cut as you expect when using the guide rails in the normal manner with a precision (fine cut) blade.

Dave R.

 

[emck]

I am a novice but and I was looking into getting new blade before the price increase and I was wandering what the best blade to cup MDF and Plywood would be?

also this might be a silly question but how many cuts can i make with a blade.

thanks
e

 

[dirtydeeds]

i use the standard blade and it works fine on mdf and ply

as with all questions about saw blade performance, it depends on how abrasive the materials you are cutting are. for instance oak is more abrasive than pine